Pocket List: Somma chef Mirko Febbrile’s guide to eating and drinking through Lima, Peru

Central

Central is one of those rare restaurants that fundamentally changes the way diners think about a country’s cuisine. Febbrile has long admired chef Virgilio Martínez for the way he approaches food beyond the plate. “Virgilio sees food not only from a chef’s perspective, but through storytelling, design and art, bringing them to the next level while making them feel accessible and comforting,” he says.

The experience became even more meaningful when he had the opportunity to spend time with Martínez, who generously shared recommendations on where to eat, what to explore and how to better understand Peru through its diverse ingredients and landscapes.

The dish that has stayed with him is River Cotton, inspired by Peru’s Dry Valley ecosystem. Sweet local river prawns, avocado and loche squash are presented inside a charred pumpkin shell blackened with organic ash. “What fascinated me wasn’t just the beauty of the dish, but how every element captured a landscape, a climate and a sense of place in a way that very few restaurants can achieve,” he says.

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Kjolle

At Kjolle, led by Pía León, it is the sense of joy that immediately stood out to Febbrile. “The colours are vibrant, the flavours are expressive and the ingredients are celebrated with very little manipulation,” he says. The dish he continues to think about is Muchos Tubérculos (Many Tubers), one of León’s signature creations. A composition of Andean roots arranged over a tart made from cañihua dough, it’s served with oca and toasted olluco, showcasing the extraordinary diversity of Peru’s native produce.

“We often speak about terroir, but this dish felt like the purest expression of it,” he reflects. “It transformed ingredients that many people might overlook into something elegant, thoughtful and memorable. It’s the type of dish that appears simple until you understand how much knowledge, sourcing and technique are required to make simplicity feel so complete.”

Every trip begins the same way: with a visit to the local market. In Lima, that meant Mercado N°1 de Surquillo, a place Febbrile describes as where “Peru truly begins to reveal itself”.

“For a chef, it’s a dream,” he says. “The colours alone are enough to stop you in your tracks.” Piles of chillies in every imaginable shade sit alongside dozens of native potato varieties, unfamiliar tropical fruits, pristine seafood, fragrant herbs and ancient grains—an extraordinary showcase of Peru’s biodiversity. “Walking through the market felt like visiting a living encyclopaedia of Peruvian cuisine. It was pure joy for the eyes.”

From there, he recommends doing what Lima does best: eating your way across the city. For memorable seafood in a relaxed setting, La Picantería stands out for its honest cooking and vibrant atmosphere, which he believes perfectly captures the city’s spirit. La Mar remains his benchmark for ceviche, serving what he describes as “some of the best, craziest-tasting ceviche” he has ever had. For coffee, he kept returning to Demo, while Blu Gelateria served some of the finest ice cream of the entire trip.

Above all, what impressed him most about Lima was its remarkable consistency. “It felt almost impossible to have a bad meal,” he says. Whether dining at a market stall, a neighbourhood café or one of the world’s best restaurants, “the level of care was consistently extraordinary.”

Partly because the cocktails are exceptional, but mostly because of the people behind it, Febbrile holds Lady Bee in high regard. He has a deep admiration for co-founder Alonso Palomino, who, beyond being an incredibly talented bartender, is one of the kindest and most generous people he has met in hospitality. The drinks are creative without being complicated, and technical without becoming intimidating—every cocktail feels thoughtful, delicious and brings a sense of discovery each time. The food is equally impressive, making it a place where guests can easily spend an entire evening rather than simply stopping for a drink. What Febbrile loves most about Lady Bee is how it reflects the best side of Lima’s hospitality culture: world-class standards delivered with warmth, humility and genuine personality.

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No trip to Peru would be complete without a visit to Machu Picchu, but for Febbrile, it was the journey through the Sacred Valley that proved just as memorable as the destination itself. “Despite all the photographs and expectations, it still manages to surprise you,” he says. Travelling on horseback through the Sacred Valley, past ancient agricultural terraces, remote villages and towering Andean peaks, became one of the most profound experiences of the trip. “The landscapes feel almost mythical. Nature in Peru has a scale that is difficult to describe. The mountains make you feel incredibly small, yet strangely connected to everything around you.”

Arriving at Machu Picchu after days of exploring the region was an emotional moment. Standing alongside his friends, he was overcome by “a mixture of joy, gratitude and disbelief”—one of those rare travel experiences, he says, “where reality exceeds the image you've built in your mind for years”.

Back in Lima, however, his favourite pastime was far simpler: walking. The Peruvian capital surprised him with its creative energy, sense of safety and deep-rooted food culture. He spent hours wandering through the streets of Barranco, strolling along the dramatic Pacific coastline, browsing independent boutiques in Miraflores and stopping frequently for coffee, snacks or an aperitif. “Lima is definitely a city that rewards curiosity,” he says.

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