Cover Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
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Managing director for PST Manila Bill Yuen shares what makes their pizzas special and what it takes to make the perfect pizza each and every time
The pizza—that quintessential Neapolitan dish beloved all over the world, once known as the default easy-fix dinner made with entry-level deli items, has now been elevated into art. Not all pizzas are created equal, of course, and there are many different versions for each pizza-loving city. But perhaps nobody has taken to pizza-making quite like the Japanese, who have become known for the creation of some of the most transcendental pies in the world.
Multi-awarded Japanese pizzaiolo Tsubasa Tamaki has turned his Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) in Tokyo’s Roppongi district into a global brand, succumbing to the demand of enterprising guests who have dined in his small eatery and loved the pizza so much that they just had to bring it back with them. Among these global partners are a couple, Bill and Roxanne Yuen, both world travellers, food lovers and serious wine aficionados. How did they manage to convince Tamaki to open in Makati, we asked. “It was great timing,” Bill, managing director for PST Manila, admitted, “since it was at the time when Tamaki was actively expanding globally. Roxanne and I had tried different locations, which were recommended by wine friends, and they would always tell us we needed to try these pizzas in Japan. So we went to a few places, and Tamaki’s pizza really stood out to us.”
Above Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
Above Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
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It also helped that they share the same philosophy that wine and pizza are truly meant to be together. The Yuens also own Dominion Wine Cellar along Jupiter Street, Bel-Air Village, while Tamaki is known to offer a substantial selection of wines in his original Tokyo eatery, many of them served also by the glass. In the Ayala Triangle Gardens branch, the Yuens make sure to offer a variety of bottles in varying price points and taste profiles, catering to both the casual quaffer and the discerning connoisseur.
See also: Tatler’s ultimate guide: where to order the best lechon in Metro Manila
Above Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
Above Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
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While the wines are quite tasty on their own, they are mindful not to distract the diners from the main event. Knowing how the Japanese are such sticklers for detail, we are curious to know how they manage to keep their product consistent in the Manila, Singapore and Thailand branches, and soon in New York’s Times Square, Los Angeles, Australia, Malaysia and Dubai. “Tamaki has his signature flour blend, which he sends from Japan,” Yuen explains, “and this he kneads with the local water of the place. So he keeps adjusting the proofing time based on water ‘hardness’, even the size of the dough mixer. It determines the churn, how many turns you can do with the dough. That’s how you know how much air can get in.”
See also: Where to order the best bread in Metro Manila: sourdough, focaccia, brioche and more
Above Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
Above Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
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And in those air pockets lie the distinct characteristics of PST’s dough, wherein the experienced hands of the pizzaiolo come into play. We are fortunate to have in our local branch Tamaki’s number two man, Hiromi Nakada, who now leads the kitchen and has been training the local team. It has only been a few months, and so Nakada has had barely any time to take a leave, ensuring that everything is done according to how Tamaki trained him for the last seven years. As he picks up a ball of dough to knead into a flat disc, his practised fingers not only form a border but also pinch the dough to create pockets of air. This is what gives the pizza those beautifully scorched, crunchy edges, which is a nice contrast to the rest of the cooked crust that is almost mochi-like in its elasticity.
The menu, as in the original Tokyo branch, is short and concise. Their signature pizza is similar to a Margherita but uses smoked mozzarella that enhances the wood-burning flavour from the oven. The Bismarck features toppings of mozzarella, sausage and mushrooms, crowned with the runny richness of a soft-baked egg. For those looking for a spicy kick, the arrabbiata is the perfect cocktail of datterini tomatoes, nduja sausage, aomori garlic, parsley and black pepper. There are a few more pizza varieties to try, plus an antipasti platter and also baked lasagna that is bound to satisfy. But, for those who are looking for something quick, simple and sure to please, the pizzas will not disappoint.
Above Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
Pizza Studio Temaki from Tokyo is now in Ayala Triangle Gardens
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Pizza has truly become one of those iconic dishes that chefs obsess over—seemingly simple but very tricky to consistently perfect. It appears that Pizza Studio Tamaki is one of those establishments that has found a foolproof formula that they can be confident enough to expand globally. Their pizza is everything you love about the dish—familiar and accessible. Decadent and irresistible. And, yes, so good with wine.
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
