Cover Brown sugar and banana appam from Chanai and Chaya
Brown sugar and banana appam from Chanai and Chaya
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The icon that is Pasar Besar TTDI holds a lot more than just fresh produce. Find our top picks for a meal, snack or thirst-quencher at this bustling neighbourhood market
The brutalist exterior of Pasar Besar TTDI exudes an authoritative dominance, yet gentle in its presence, over TTDI amidst the growing gentrification of the area. This wet market, frequented by many, holds great meaning for the locals and vendors, more so than the rows and boxes of fresh produce within.
Organised to a T, the structure of this wet market is efficient for the flow of shoppers, with fresh meat, seafood, and poultry all perfectly categorised on the ground floor, and the higher floors housing items like tailors, hair salons, baking supplies, and restaurants. Grandmothers and grandfathers sitting by the benches on the steps, seeing vendors greet their regulars and mothers haggling for the good stuff in the back.
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Chanai & Chaya
Brown sugar & banana appam
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An institution in its own right, this 40 year old spot has seen generations of diners. Vijay himself is the third generation to run Chanai & Chaya, and his skill alone is testament enough to the familial passion. With cooking methods still keeping in tradition, the dough is kneaded in an old mixer, and rotis are cooked on a well seasoned flat top.
Appam and roti canai are our go-to orders—the appam is tangy, sweet, with options for add-ins such as banana, brown sugar, and coconut. Crisp, frayed edges line the soft, buoyant middle that cradles your chosen toppings. Find this gem parked within the second floor of the market within the food court.
Chanai & Chaya, No. TD-061 & TD-062, Jalan Wan Kadir 2, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
Jenny Hong Soya Milk
Above Tau fu fah at Jenny Hong
Above Jenny Hong stall in TTDI
Tau fu fah at Jenny Hong
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Jenny Hong is the absolute superstar of the market and beyond. Her soy milk is a staple in many households, and her tau foo fah silky smooth. Her business has also been in operation for over 40 years, with humble beginnings in Seksyen 14 as well as Chow Kit, but ultimately settled down in TTDI, with trucks dotted across the city.
Energetic and familiar in her movements, at 72 years old she radiates vibrancy, even in her simple question of asking "brown or white sugar?". Her red hair and uncomplicated menu, along with her iconic sign board acts as a source of comfort for many long-time patrons of the market.
Jenny Hong, G Floor, Jalan Wan Kadir, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
Chai Cha Teh
Chilli Pan Mee
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A staple for many lunch time goers around the area, this is a fuss free spot with Malaysian classics like pan mee and curry mee, along with other rice dishes such as Taiwanese braised chicken rice, and katsu chicken rice on a rotating basis.
After nine years of operations, this is still a relatively new spot within the walls of the market, but its impact no less significant. The restaurant is full at breakfast and lunch times—locals come here for a taste of authentic pork-free chilli pan mee, topped with their signature chilli crisp, a runny egg yolk on top of their bouncy noodles and a moreish mushroom and chicken mince, it can be hard to go wrong here.
Chai Cha Teh, G Floor, Jalan Wan Kadir, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
Read more: 10 must-try Asian noodles for armchair travellers
Kuih-muih
Above One of the stalls selling biscuits
Above Coffee butter biscuits
One of the stalls selling biscuits
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Decked throughout the market are always stalls selling kuih and different types of biscuits, depending on the seasons. You’ll find a slew of nyonya kuih made fresh, including classics such as seri muka, onde-onde, and many others.
During festive seasons, you can find seasonal biscuits for Chinese New Year, Hari Raya, and Deepavali. Think crisp murukku, decadent pineapple tarts, and melt-in-your-mouth semperit biscuits.
Kuih, G Floor, Jalan Wan Kadir, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
The Meat Store
Multifaceted in its offerings, this hole-in-the-wall coffee shop serves up delicious coffee and drinks, along with a great selection of records you’re able to purchase.
Lining the walls are art pieces from local artists, and shelves tucked to the brim with books such as the likes of classics and philosophy. On Sundays, share the love for music by bringing your own records and enjoy coffee to the sound of your own music.
The Meat Store, 1st Floor, Jalan Wan Kadir, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
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Keandra's expertise lies within writing deep dives into the culture and anthropology of food, sometimes with a philosophical twist. With a background in London's F&B consultancy scene, she's excited to be back in Kuala Lumpur to champion the local dining scene.
Reach her at keandra.hing@tatlerasia.com, @keandruh
