Cover A delectable spread of Italian food from Osteria Antica (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
A delectable spread of Italian food from Osteria Antica (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
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Wildflour Italian is reborn as Osteria Antica at The Podium, Ortigas Center—and is sure to draw a crowd with an appreciation for authentic Italian cuisine
Wildflour Hospitality Group has proven time and again that they are a leading force in the local food and beverage industry, launching restaurants that resonate with its constantly expanding market. Still, they keep their ears to the ground, always mindful of market shifts and emerging trends. After turning their Little Flour branches into their traditional Filipino concept George & Onnie’s, they shift their focus on how to make their award-winning Italian concept even better, with the launch of Osteria Antica on the 6th floor of The Podium mall.
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The massive space of the re-branded Wildlflour Italian concept has sweeping views of the Ortigas skyline, with high ceilings and elegant finishings by Larawan Ink headed by principal architect Lara Fernandez Barrios. Aside from the more polished vibe, how is Osteria Antica different from Wildflour Italian? “Osteria Antica is the evolution of our love for authentic Italian cuisine, with a menu even more refined and expanded than our previous iteration with Wildflour Italian, and a bigger and more prominent space where it can truly flourish,” explains Wildflour Hospitality Group co-founder Ana Lorenzana de Ocampo. “With large dining halls and intimate private rooms, the 6th floor space at The Podium and its unparalleled view of the Ortigas skyline is the literal elevation of our Italian concept—a unique location in the heart of one of the Metro's most bustling CBDs for a great, authentic Italian meal.”
Above The interiors of Osteria Antica (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
The interiors of Osteria Antica (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
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The food, of course, has to be up to par with the ambience, which has set high expectations. Chef Carlo Miguel recently joined the group, taking charge of menu development and ensuring that the dishes developed by the team led by co-founder Walter Manzke are executed flawlessly. “I think joining the Wildflour Group allows me to flex my culinary muscles a little bit,” says chef Carlo, a 30-year veteran in hospitality, “[I get to] show what I’ve learned over the years. I have always been known for very bold flavours, but what I also learned through the years is the importance of balance and restraint. There will be generosity, but for me it’s an idea. It does not have to mean big servings. It can also mean to season things generously, you can be generous with the ingredients you choose. You can be generous with your hospitality style. For me, that’s generosity in restaurants, and I feel it's also very Italian to do things that way.”
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Backed with experience opening numerous restaurants throughout his illustrious career, Miguel shares that his favourite restaurant will always be the first which was Mezzaluna—the modern Italian restaurant he opened many years ago in Serendra, BGC. “When they told me we were doing an evolution of Wildflour Italian, I thought to myself ‘perfect, that's in my wheelhouse,’” he admits. He is perfectly at home guiding his team through the classics, like a perfectly battered and fried fritto misto that goes so well with some glacial martinis from the bar. We were also treated to bites that are available with aperitivo including a memorable tuna “carbonara” on brioche. A traditional Roman salad of endives, gorgonzola and hazelnuts simply dressed with lemon juice and good olive oil is a fitting way to prep for the Italian feast ahead.
Above A bright ceviche (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
A bright ceviche (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
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The fish course was served table-side—a whole pampano cooked al cartoccio with a side of roasted potatoes and simply garnished with a zingy tomato relish. The team took some liberties with the red wine campanelle, tossing it with tender octopus and then topping it all with rich roasted bone marrow. Give it a chance—the perfectly balanced flavours and play on textures will pleasantly surprise you.
The meat courses are well-represented with all the favourites, including a promising rack of lamb with polenta and a wood-fire roasted chicken with back truffle jus, but the ultimate carnivore’s indulgence is surely their ultra-tender New York Steak. The Okan Wagyu striploin is cooked to a perfect medium rare, and sliced to present its bright pink centre, laid on top of a porcini potato purée with an unctuous creamed spinach, plus some roasted San Marzano tomatoes for contrast. For dessert, there is a sinfully smooth cheesecake dotted with fresh berries. Interestingly, chef Miguel deliberately veered away from doing a chocolate dessert and instead succeeded with his baked lemon budino (which is one of de Ocampo’s favourites from the menu).
Above Carbonara pasta (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
Above Pizza (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
Carbonara pasta (Photo: courtesy of Osteria Antica)
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As expected from this prolific restaurant group, they are already thinking ahead and plotting the future of Osteria Antica. “We are on the lookout for the right location in the Makati or BGC area for the concept to flourish,” discloses de Ocampo, “another iconic and prominent space in the heart of the Metro that would be able to transport guests to Italy and provide a top-notch dining experience unlike any other.”
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
