Cover Nadodi, named one of Tatler Asia’s Best 100 Restaurants in 2024, pays homage to this legacy, celebrating the rich culinary traditions of Kerala, Sri Lanka, and Tamil Nadu
Nadodi, named one of Tatler Asia’s Best 100 Restaurants in 2024, pays homage to this legacy, celebrating the rich culinary traditions of Kerala, Sri Lanka, and Tamil Nadu
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Take a look inside our cover story for Tatler Best Malaysia 2025
During Malaysia’s colonial era, a wave of migration occurred from the southern Indian subcontinent. Travellers who braved the harsh conditions brought with them rich culture, from art and music to colourful spices and ingredients, enriching our nation’s identity. These settlers, many of whom came from South India and Sri Lanka, made Malaysia their home, embedding their culinary traditions indelibly into the local fabric. Over generations, these communities and their offspring significantly influenced the food culture and gastronomic landscape we see today.
Nadodi, named one of Tatler Asia’s Best 100 Restaurants in 2024, pays homage to this legacy, celebrating the rich culinary traditions of Kerala, Sri Lanka, and Tamil Nadu. Situated within the Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur, it acts as a compass, guiding diners through the tapestry of these regions with an authentic narrative.
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Above Tatler Best Malaysia 2025 cover
Tatler Best Malaysia 2025 cover
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“These cuisines are more than just comfort food—they are vibrant, layered, and worthy of innovation,” enthuses Nadodi’s executive chef Yavhin Siriwardhana, whose warm demeanour matches his talent and passion.
Joining Nadodi a year after its inception, Malaysia-born Yavhin brings with him a deep connection to Sri Lanka and Kerala with his ancestral roots. “Each dish is a story, taking diners on a journey that blends traditional foundations with modern creativity,” he shares.
Above Nadodi presents an innovative celebration of heritage
Nadodi presents an innovative celebration of heritage
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For instance, a humble fermented rice staple often eaten by farmers as a nourishing meal, parzhaya soru, is transformed on Nadodi’s tasting menu, presented as a refined expression of the sustenance and resilience of labourers. Every dish is served with a story, not only creating an emotional connection, but also educating diners on the cultural significance of every bite.
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Above Nadodi’s take on the traditional dish of maasi karuvadu
Nadodi’s take on the traditional dish of maasi karuvadu
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The restaurant also replicates the struggle diasporic communities would face to preserve their culture during migration. Maasi karuvadu, a smoked and dried fish condiment from Sri Lanka and Tamil Nadu, was created to preserve and transport fish, and soon became a cultural emblem. At Nadodi, it is house-made, using ikan tongkol from local Malaysian fishermen.
Above A selection of ingredients used throughout Nadodi’s dishes
A selection of ingredients used throughout Nadodi’s dishes
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Other ingredients that shine in the menu come sourced sustainably from close suppliers, such as nellikai (gooseberries), petola (luffa), and gourds, native to the cuisine. These are combined with aromatics like tamarind, moringa, and kalpasi ingeniously, offering diners unexpected combinations of familiar flavours.
Above The restaurant’s sister bar, Vér
The restaurant’s sister bar, Vér
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The dining experience is further refined by a beverage programme that includes craft beverages from sister bar Vér. These culinary cocktails infuse the dining experience with nostalgic touches, from drinks inspired by childhood games and beloved desserts to those that play with inventive twists on traditional classics.
Above Ingredients utilised at Nadodi arranged into a map
Ingredients utilised at Nadodi arranged into a map
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True to Nadodi’s name, which translates into “wanderer” or “nomad”, Nadodi celebrates the flavours shaped by centuries of migration and culture exchange, reshaping perceptions of South Indian and Sri Lankan cuisine through an immersive journey through the tastes, stories, and legacies of travellers that now call Malaysia home. “I hope to showcase to the world the depth and beauty of the cultures that these cuisines represent,” Yavhin ends.
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Credits
Photography: Calvin Goh
Creative Design: Trisha Toh
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
