Cover New restaurant in Poblacion: Compañeros Taqueria x Carinderia
New restaurant in Poblacion: Compañeros Taqueria x Carinderia
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This freshly launched taco joint successfully fuses together Mexican flavours, New York and California food truck concepts, and Filipino street food
When combining cuisines, some are admittedly more successful than most. There are flavours that are simply too far apart on either end of the spectrum and should never meet, while some sit comfortably under the same umbrella of cultural culinary styles and ingredients that putting the two together makes perfect sense. Filipino and Mexican food fall under the latter, with a cultural past so tightly intertwined that we share so many ingredients and cooking techniques brought about largely by the galleon trade during the Spanish occupation.
When husband and wife lawyers-turned-restauranteurs Philip and Regine Gonda decided to open their Poblacion hole-in-the-wall Compañeros Taqueria x Carinderia (“compañero” is the Spanish word for partner, and is also how local lawyers endearingly call each other), they seem to have unwittingly taken advantage of this moment in our history. To put it quite simply, literally and metaphorically—they just followed their gut. “We have always loved food,” admits Regine, “and so having our own food business was just something we have been wanting to do for a while now.” Why tacos? We ask. “We just think that the taco is the perfect vessel to combine both cuisines and to make Filipino street food more accessible to a wider audience,” Philip explains.
In case you missed it: Pizza Kamayan by A Mano and Toyo Eatery from July 26 to August 26
Philip and Regine Gonda, owners of Compañeros
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Since the couple had zero food industry background, they were prudent in initially wanting to test the proverbial waters by operating a food cart, which is known to be low-cost and low-risk. However, having serendipitously crossed paths with US-trained chef Kevin David—who has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants and currently operates his private dining concept Idalia Manila—they felt that they would be underutilising his talent if they did not go all-in. With Chef David heading and training the kitchen as their chef consultant, the Gondas decided to expand their operation into a dine-in, fast-casual concept that offers a concise menu of appetisers, tacos, and drinks that represent their vision.
Read more: What does it take to be a top food stylist?
Above Chicharron bulaklak & guacamole
Above Chilaquiles con “longgarizo”
Chicharron bulaklak & guacamole
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Their entrada of chicharron bulaklak and guacamole demonstrates the concept articulately, showing how replacing the typical spiced vinegar condiment with the avocado-based dip makes for a seamless substitute. Their chilaquiles are adorned with house-made garlicky “longgarizo”, mozzarella cheese, salsa verde, and a runny fried egg, the yolk meant to blanket the fried tortilla chips in gooey richness.
Related: Filipino Food: 9 Types of longganisa—Which one is your favourite?
Above Crispy fish tacos
Above Compañeros quesabirria
Crispy fish tacos
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While those are quite tasty, the early stars are arguably the tacos. For the fish taco, the kitchen is determined to use what is fresh (and what is most delicious) and so this time has picked umami-filled and fatty catfish. Beer-battered and then fried until crispy, it sits atop a corn tortilla and is embellished with mango ensalada pico de gallo, and their signature tartare sauce. The quesabirria is a dish that has been done many times, but Compañeros’ version proves to be a strong contender for top taco. Chef David took some tips from his stateside chef friends and has truly got his technique down pat, such as making sure there is a double layer of cheese on the outer shell so it fries crisp, and that the broth has minimal grease and a good balance of flavours.
Above Al pastor Filipino pork BBQ
Above Compañeros tacos
Al pastor Filipino pork BBQ
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The al pastor, traditionally cooked on a trompo, is prepared as they would in Mexico, with the juicy pork sandwiched between slices of pineapple. What sets the Compañeros version apart from the rest is that sweet, Filipino-style barbecue glaze that makes it the ideal contrast for the salsas (both the rojo and verde are winners) chef David’s team prepares in-house, including a rather addicting lacto-fermented fruit salsa that packs a wallop but is so good you will gladly endure the punishing heat. You can cool down with their refreshing concoctions like melon horchata and watermelon dayap agua fresca.
Read more: These are the most iconic Filipino dishes from Negros, Ilocos, Pampanga, and more
Above Melon horchata
Above Watermelon dayap agua fresca
Melon horchata
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The street-inspired design of the interiors is evocative of the vibe the owners are hoping to achieve, which is as easy-going and casual as the food. Still, like anything about Compañeros, there are also some deliberate details such as the colourway which alludes to the Philippine flag, and the up-cycled beer crates that were stacked to create the tables. While diners are encouraged to unwind and leave their pretences at the door, the food here was designed to be straightforward, delicious, and (based on personal experience) crave-able. The experience is highly immersive and fun (a few tequila shots should help with that, too), taking you to a place where your worries cannot reach you. And more poignantly, their tacos will haunt you, and they will keep at it until you come back for more.
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Credits
Photography: Courtesy of Compañeros
Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
