New Salcedo Village restaurant: Papillon by chefs RJ Ramos and Alphonse Sotero

Still, their combined efforts display quite impressive knowledge of the rather diverse and complex tastes and textures from different countries in the region, delivering traditional bold flavours despite the creative liberties they took with each dish. The starter called Eggs, Eggs, Eggs is a spin on the Thai son-in-law eggs, with the whites puffed up like a soufflé and topped with ikura. Its airy interior provides great contrast to the crispy exterior, which is then drizzled with the familiar tangy sweetness of the tamarind sauce. On the other end of the spectrum, the foie and pork mask appetiser is an indulgent take on sisig, with seared duck liver giving Pampanga’s gift to the world a swanky upgrade.

The main courses are just as inventive and daintily presented. Plump Hokkaido scallops are seared and beautifully adorn their version of pad see ew. They use delicate halibut fillets for their cha ca la vong—a Hanoi fried fish dish served with dill and a side of rice noodles flavoured with a pungent fermented shrimp sauce. Still, I feel that the slowly braised veal cheeks (slicing into it it was like cutting butter with a hot knife), perfectly demonstrate Ramos’ talent and breadth of experience. With the heat and complexity of a good Malaysian rendang, it skilfully flavours the subtle protein and is suitably paired with a steaming cup of white rice. Those who opt for more heat can request for their house-made sambal which will put the supermarket variety to shame.

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They will soon offer afternoon tea, and if their desserts provide a preview of what to expect, then there is good reason to be excited. Chef Ramos gives chef Sotero full credit, although the latter humbly corrects him and says it is a team effort. The Dessert Hotpot might seem like a colourful and elaborate collection of tapioca, mochi balls, red rubies, beans, jellies, and fruits, but it actually is a playful nod at simple halo-halo-like snacks such as Vietnamese che and Thai tub tim crob. Still, Sotero stuns with his pandan rose, which is literally crepe dyed and shaped into a flower in full bloom, served with gula melaka and creme anglaise. It is truly almost too beautiful to eat, until you have a bite and realise not eating it would be a complete waste.

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The beverage program is clearly Martin and Ticzon’s domain, and they made sure Papillon is well-stocked with fragrant whites and fruit-forward reds that compliment the exotic herbs and spices of this side of the world. On the mezzanine, the dramatic lighting bounces off the copper ceiling over the bar, mimicking the sexy shades of dusk. Cocktails like Pisco-based Disco Diva were concocted with the flavour profiles of the food in mind, so matching the drinks with them should prove to be a promising endeavour. 

With their mesmerising interiors, the owners are hoping that it will attract a fun after-dinner crowd to enjoy the bar’s exotic libations and thoughtfully selected wine list–which have also been created to suite their highest of standards. Still, at the very heart of this undertaking is the profound talent in the kitchen. While humble and under-the-radar, chefs Ramos and Sotero deserve a round of applause for both their craftsmanship at Papillion and Lampara. Papillon truly does offer them a fitting showcase for the technique-driven and refined Southeast Asian cuisine that they prepare. More than anything, that is why people should come, and then come again.

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