Cover Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
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The celebrated chef converts the former Ohayo on Maginhawa Street space into Mugen, a hakata-style ramen bar offering a more premium and singular experience
Maginhawa Street in Teacher’s Village, Quezon City is not only minutes away from some of the country’s most highly regarded learning institutions, but is also a breeding ground for creative endeavours. A hub for many musicians and artists, the now-busy thoroughfare is also dotted with restaurants and cafes that cater mostly to its residents and to a young university crowd. Chef Jorge Mendez—one of the most dynamic forces in our local dining scene—feels perfectly at home here, opening his latest fine casual Japanese concept, Mugen Ramenya.
Above Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Above Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
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Taking over the space of Ohayo, which was Mendez’s modern Japanese concept, Mugen is more focused and made of finer stock. The ten-seater Hakata-style ramen bar is a product of the chef’s many travels to Japan, trying numerous bowls of ramen (too many to recount), but all leading to the realisation that there is no such thing as the best ramen.
“Each bowl of ramen is unique,” Mendez explains. “It is a result of the ramen chef’s experiences and personal preferences. I believe this, which is why I also apply this philosophy in Mugen. In Japanese, it means ‘infinite,’ a nod to the endless creativity and evolution behind each dish.”
See also: Top chefs speak up: restaurant design is just as important as its food
Above Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Above Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
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The menu is intentionally concise, each dish developed into Mendez’s ultimate interpretation of the Japanese comfort food classics. For starters, there are golden fists of chicken karaage served with tamago mayo and lemon, as well as crispy shrimp nuggets meant to be dunked in some gochumayo. But, if you must only choose one, not to be missed is their gyoza—dumplings held together by their house-made wrapper that is first steamed and then fried on one side for that irresistible crispy bite.
Above Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Above Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
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The noodles are also homemade, and as expected from the learned artisans in this kitchen, each ramen variety is assigned a specific one with its distinct texture and thickness that is matched perfectly with the broth. The thicker crab and shrimp broth of the crab ramen calls for noodles with more heft, while the light and creamy broth of the wagyu ramen is paired with thinner noodles. No templates, no common base—every dish is assembled from the ground up without compromise, and using only the finest ingredients in copious amounts. The fried rice, too, is prepared in different ways, with the crab chahan sautéed in crab head while the wagyu chahan is dense with the aromas of Mugen’s black pepper blend.
See also: East Ocean Palace reveals a new menu for the first time in 8 years
Above Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Above Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
Mugen Ramenya by Jorge Mendez, serving hakata-style ramen and Japanese favourites from karaage to Wagyu chahan
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A meal here can end with one of their sweet milk tea drinks, such as a fruity matcha blueberry and matcha banoffee for lovers of banana desserts. And if there is still room, an Earl Grey ice cream with buckwheat feuilletine is sure to provide a memorable conclusion to a brief yet exceptional meal. The ramen bar set-up ensures fast, efficient service and quick turnovers, so they will not be accepting reservations. Mendez is already anticipating lines, and there is no doubt that his followers will brave the Diliman traffic for a taste of his latest gastronomic creations. So come hungry and ready for a singular experience which, for many, might just become an indulgent habit.
Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
