Cover Corunda, a dish at KOL (Photo: Anton Rodriguez)
Corunda, a dish at KOL (Photo: Anton Rodriguez)
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Gone are the days of bland British food, as London houses some of the most exciting restaurants in the world
There are few countries with a more diverse and cosmopolitan food scene than London. The global hub is home to over 300 different ethnic communities, due to migration and travel, resulting in a dynamic blend of cuisines. Many of these food traditions date back to Britain’s colonial era, with cuisines having evolved over time in their own way, many of which are now cornerstones of the country’s identity.
With a vast range of ingredients, as well as London’s identity as a culinary haven amongst both discerning local diners and international travellers alike, it is no surprise that it houses some of the most highly respected and renowned restaurants worldwide.
During a recent trip, I visited two outstanding restaurants—modern Mexican restaurant KOL, and Ikoyi, known for its spice-driven cuisine, both of which make use of British produce in creative and inspiring ways.
Read more: 5 things we loved about Sunday brunch at The Brasserie, St. Regis KL
Kol
Above KOL’s stunning interior (Photo: KOL)
KOL’s stunning interior (Photo: KOL)
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Helmed by Santiago Lastra, KOL has made waves for contemporary Mexican cuisine, showing how the rich food culture of Mexico can be elevated elegantly and creatively. Since my first visit just four years ago, Lastra has further refined the experience—the journey remains still approachable even to those with little exposure to Mexican food due to the team’s expertise, resulting in an educational yet lighthearted meal.
See also: What to expect from the second iteration of KL Cocktail Week: The full lineup
Above A dish from KOL’s spring menu, served inside the head of a tulip which can be consumed whole, apart from the stem (Photo: Anton Rodriguez)
A dish from KOL’s spring menu, served inside the head of a tulip which can be consumed whole, apart from the stem (Photo: Anton Rodriguez)
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In the earthy and terracotta-coloured dining room, the spring menu here sees dishes from the likes of blue mussels and a spring mole delicately encased in a halved pink tulip to a corn tortilla topped with langoustine with smoked chilli and sea buckthorn, showcasing the best of British spring produce with traditional Mexican cooking techniques and flavours.
Above Langoustine Taco (Photo: Rebecca Dickson)
Langoustine Taco (Photo: Rebecca Dickson)
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To complement this, the drinks pairing comes with a blend of alcoholic and non-alcoholic options, from rhubarb kombucha to magnolia soda and ice cider.
Above Santiago Lastra (Photo: Rebecca Dickson)
Santiago Lastra (Photo: Rebecca Dickson)
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Ikoyi
Above Jeremy Chan (Photo: Danny J Peace)
Jeremy Chan (Photo: Danny J Peace)
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Jeremy Chan’s Ikoyi boasts spice-laden dishes that celebrate the global spice trade, amplified with hyperseasonal British produce, from line-caught turbot to native breed beef.
Above Turbot and Egusi Miso (Photo: Justin de Souza)
Turbot and Egusi Miso (Photo: Justin de Souza)
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What surprises me here is the use of Southeast Asian ingredients familar to me, from Cambodian Kampot pepper and Batak andaliman pepper to fermented rice.
Chan’s cuisine is not bounded by geographical regions, especially in recent years, but rather is informed by his extensive wealth of culinary knowledge which is rooted in not just experience but theory.
Above Drunken Squid Toast (Photo: Justin de Souza)
Drunken Squid Toast (Photo: Justin de Souza)
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With a background in Language and Philosophy, he spent almost five years researching and learning about the craft, working with specialists, and studying medical journals and ethnobotany. Hence, dishes he creates are incredibly well thought out, flavour and technique-driven, and constantly evolving.
Above Ikoyi’s intimate interior (Photo: Irina Boersma)
Ikoyi’s intimate interior (Photo: Irina Boersma)
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
