Cover Locus’ Lee Ziyan and Studio Restaurant’s Jenifer Kuah (Photo: Locus and Studio Restaurant)

In this story from the Tatler Best magazine, we dive into what hospitality with heart really means

When one thinks about dining out, what immediately comes to mind is typically the food or beverage programme. But there is one key aspect that is often overlooked, with the ability to make or break an experience—the service and hospitality. At their respective establishments, powerhouses Jenifer Kuah and Lee Ziyan run front of house service with dignity and grace, with more than a decade of experience under both their belts. 

“Hospitality is about creating a welcoming and comfortable space where people feel valued and cared for,” Lee, the co-founder of Locus and Provisions, smiles. “It is the art of going the extra mile to ensure everyone who walks through your door leaves with a positive experience.”

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Tatler Asia
Above Lee Ziyan (Photo: Locus)
Tatler Asia
Above Lee Ziyan (Photo: Locus)

The first concept she founded, modern Malaysian eatery Li Restaurant, opened its doors to the public in 2016, and honest cooking and warm service soon turned it into a vibrant hub resonating with the surrounding community. 

“People usually dine out as a respite from cooking, to spend precious time with loved ones, or to mark a special occasion,” Kuah adds. “We want guests to be relaxed and at ease, while giving them the assistance they need to enjoy their food.” The co-founder of Studio Restaurant, Alta Cafe, and Alta Pizza runs operations at her establishments like a well-oiled machine with discreet yet attentive service, creating a relaxed and classy atmosphere.

Tatler Asia
Above Jenifer Kuah (Photo: Studio Restaurant)
Tatler Asia
Above Jenifer Kuah (Photo: Studio Restaurant)

“Service and hospitality go hand in hand,” continues Lee. “Service is about basic gestures of care, while hospitality takes things a step further, where you truly connect with and understand people.” As much as it always remains a goal to provide a seamless experience, this is not without difficulty. 

“We see the worst and best of humanity in F&B,” Kuah acknowledges. “In Malaysia, it is that bit harder, as many still hold the ‘customer is king’ mentality, or have an inherited, colonial master-servant mentality that makes service servile, and is difficult to change.” This often leads to entitled and demanding customers—Kuah recounts an experience when a guest demanded music be turned off, threatening to never come back to the restaurant.

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At the same time, it can be challenging to cater to guests who do not have boundaries or get too close, as Lee recounts: “My most difficult experience was when a customer would sit and watch me work—at times, they would become handsy, which made it challenging to maintain my professionalism and composure.”

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The situation made it challenging for Lee to focus on her day-to-day tasks and provide great service to other customers. In the end, she had to set clear boundaries while remaining respectful, seeking support from her team when necessary. “By staying firm, calm, and focused, I was able to navigate the discomfort and ensure a positive outcome,” she says. 

While the industry carries its difficulties, both Kuah and Lee agree it is the passion for people and food that keep them both going. “I’ve watched so many of my customers get into relationships, get married, and start families—it is priceless to feel I have been a part of their journey,” Lee enthuses.

In the future, both hope for a better future for Malaysia’s hospitality scene. “I hope that practitioners develop a style of service that suits both them and our local culture,” Kuah says. Lee echoes her sentiments: “Ultimately, it is about bringing people together and making them feel at home—I hope guests can be fully present in the moment to enjoy every experience provided.”

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Katelyn Tan
Dining and Travel Editor, Malaysia & Indonesia, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia

About

Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.