Cover The Hapag team came to Malaysia to cook with Akar as part of the Tatler Best Takeover Series

We pick the minds of the creative forces behind Hapag in Manila, Philippines

Four members from Hapag, one of the Philippines’ most respected restaurants, took a four-hour flight to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to cook for the Tatler Best Takeover series. A collaboration with modern Malaysian restaurant Akar, the event brought together Malaysian and Filipino cuisine, an unlikely pairing but one that encapsulated each region's bold flavours. 

This was best seen in the Palabok Noodles, a Filipino dish that, while typically served with a sauce made with shrimp broth, was paired with a laksa broth, a nod to both countries. It wasn’t a surprise that the collaboration was so successful, as Aidan Low, Akar’s chef-owner, actually cooked with the Hapag team exactly a year ago in April 2025. 

We sat down with Thirdy Dolatre and John Kevin Navoa to learn more about Hapag and how they found themselves running one of the Philippines’ most renowned culinary spaces.

Read more: Inside Yakoboku, a bar rooted in Kumamoto’s terroir helmed by Shinya Koba

Tatler Asia
Above The Hapag team
Tatler Asia
Above The dinner brought together ingredients from both the Philippines and Malaysia

Tell us about Hapag in your own words. 

Thirdy Dolatre: Hapag is a restaurant rooted in Filipino food, shaped by research across the Philippine archipelago. We travel, learn from different regions, and try to understand how diverse our cuisine really is. We take those flavours and stories and present them in a way that still feels familiar, but more thoughtful. It’s not about reinventing Filipino food but about understanding it better.

What’s a piece of criticism you’ve received that stung at first but quietly made you better, and what did it teach you about your own blind spots?

John Kevin Navoa: When we first opened, our food was too flavourful and too rich. Over time, as we grew and evolved, we learned how to create better balance in our dishes and in the way we approach cuisine as a whole.

Tatler Asia
Above Hapag’s interior

Was it a taste, a place, or a person that made you realise that you wanted to do this?

JKN: I remember trying to cook garlic fried rice when I was maybe six or seven years old. Even then, I already had the urge to make something that tasted really good. I think it was that feeling of wanting approval from the person I made that very humble garlic fried rice for.

TD: I grew up around family members who were great home cooks, and that’s where I learned the basics. Even at a young age, I was always drawn to the kitchen, just out of curiosity. I come from a family of dentists, so that was the expected path. But after middle school, my brother encouraged me to pursue culinary school instead.

Tatler Asia
Above Kinilaw
Tatler Asia
Above The Hapag team

What’s a turn you took that looked like a mistake at the time but now reveals itself as essential?

TD: I opened my first restaurant at 24. It lasted about two years before we decided to close it because of gaps in how we ran the business. At the time, it felt like a failure. But looking back, it was necessary. It gave me time to step back, grow, and understand what I really wanted to build. 

JKN: One of those moments was deciding to go home to Manila and cook instead of staying abroad. I was studying at KDU then and had a short stint at Dewakan, so leaving that path behind felt uncertain at the time. Looking back now, it was essential.

Tell us about your non-work passions. 

TD: Most of my time outside the kitchen is spent with my family, especially my wife and my one-year-old son. I’m at a point in my life where being present for him really matters to me, despite the demands of being a chef and restaurateur. It’s something I value and try to protect. 

JKN: One of my biggest passions outside of work is jiu-jitsu. It definitely finds its way into my work through mentality. Jiu-jitsu teaches discipline, patience, and respect for detail, and in both cooking and martial arts, the smallest things matter.

Tatler Asia
Above Hapag’s interior

What’s your impression of Kuala Lumpur? 

JKN: KL will always have a special place in my heart. I lived in Malaysia for four years and loved every second of it. Coming back always feels magical.

TD: The last time I was in KL was in 2013. I mostly remember the Petronas Towers, Jalan Alor, and the great food. Coming back now, it feels very different. There’s a strong sense of culture, but it’s also open and evolving. The restaurant scene is especially exciting. There’s a lot of talent here, and you can really feel the respect for the craft in the food, the service, and the overall experience.

Tatler Asia
Above Dishes at Hapag
Tatler Asia
Above Dishes at Hapag

Does being recognised at this level change what you feel you owe your guests, your team, or yourself?

JKN: To be honest, being seen at this level makes me feel that I have a bigger obligation to my country. We now have a platform to share Filipino cuisine and culture with the world, and I take that responsibility seriously.

TD: Recognition is meaningful, but it also pushes you to work harder and stay true to what you do. For our guests, it means being more consistent and thoughtful in both food and service. For the team, it means growing together and taking pride in what we do. No one gets left behind. For myself, it’s a reminder to stay grounded, be honest with my work, and keep improving. 

What’s something you believe you could only learn about yourself by working in someone else’s kitchen or bar?

TD: For me, it’s really about adaptability. Learning how others do things and adjusting to their system. At the same time, it’s about enjoying the process and building strong relationships. That’s what makes collaborations meaningful.

JKN: I believe stepping into someone else’s world or kitchen is extremely special. It gives you the chance to understand how another person thinks and executes. It teaches you to stay open, to adapt, and to learn from one creative to another.

See also: Where to eat and drink in The Five

Tatler Asia
Above John Kevin Navoa
Tatler Asia
Above Thirdy Dolatre

Is there any place you want to visit, and why does that particular destination call to you?

TD: I’m always drawn to restaurants that are deeply rooted in their culture and identity. Places where the food tells a clear story of where it comes from and has a strong connection to local ingredients and traditions. I’d love to go to Japan. I’m fascinated by how each region has its own specialties and identity. There’s a strong sense of craftsmanship and focus on mastery, and that’s something I truly admire.

JKN: Right now, Japan comes to mind. Even though I’ve been there a handful of times, I’d still love the opportunity to cook with another creative there one day. There’s no specific restaurant in mind. It’s really the produce, the discipline, and the energy of Japan that I love.

10 years from now, when someone mentions your name to a young cook, what do you hope they say about you?

TD: I hope they say that I stayed true to where I came from. That I showed that Filipino food has depth, diversity, and a story worth telling. And that it’s possible to build something meaningful here in the Philippines. More than anything, I hope it encourages young cooks to believe in their own voice and tell their own stories.

JKN: Ten years from now, I’d love to hear a young cook say, “He did it for his country proudly, unapologetically, and without fear.”

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Katelyn Tan
Dining and Travel Editor, Malaysia & Indonesia, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia

About

Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.