Cover Chef Tom Bascon coming out of the walk-in chiller at Nobu (Photo: courtesy of Tom Bascon)
Chef Tom Bascon coming out of the walk-in chiller at Nobu (Photo: courtesy of Tom Bascon)
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Find out what flavours, dishes and culinary experiences ignited chef Tom Bascon’s love for food
For Tom Bascon (Tatler Dining Chef of the Year 2020), executive chef of the ever-reliable M Dining + Bar, the journey to the kitchen began long before culinary school or restaurant accolades. Raised in Bacolod and practically brought up in the kitchens of his family’s hotels, he was immersed in the rhythm of food service from an early age. “The kitchen was literally our second playground,” he shares, recalling the scents, sounds and quiet magic of growing up in kitchens constantly in motion.
After graduating from the French Culinary Institute, Bascon sharpened his expertise at Nobu in New York City, where his love affair with Japanese cuisine flourished. Now at the helm of one of Manila’s most reputable and refined dining institutions, Bascon distils his experiences into M Dining’s contemporary European menu—one marked by classical technique, elegant presentation and a deep understanding of global flavours.
In case you missed it: Inside the re-opened M Dining + Bar: What’s new?
A young chef Tom Bascon in culinary school (Photo: courtesy of Tom Bascon)
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Yet for all his professional polish, his memories are as grounded as they come: savouring Magnolia ube and French vanilla ice cream, discovering the depth and complexity of smoky tinapa for the first time or savouring a flying saucer sandwich stuffed with tuna and cheese after school. Below, Bascon opens up about the food memories that shaped his palate, his father’s discerning taste and the sentimental simplicity of good burgers and breakfasts.
What was your go-to comfort food growing up?
Hands down, it was ice cream. My earliest memories were tagging along with my dad going to Magnolia’s ice cream storage plant in Bacolod. Dad would order a couple of half gallons of ube and French vanilla (which still had actual vanilla beans—my absolute favourite back then). From behind the counter, this man (who was already on a first-name basis with my dad because we came quite often) would open this heavy, huge stainless steel door, which led to a walk-in freezer and come out with the goodies.
What would you say is the one dish that ignited your love for food?
Having been born and raised in the food service industry by virtue of my parents owning two hotels, I don’t think there was one particular dish that ignited it all. I think it was just being in that environment. Somehow, I always gravitated towards the hotels’ kitchens, where it was always hustling and bustling. Whiffing all those fragrant aromas…Man, I wish I could describe it better. The kitchen was literally our second playground.
See also: The new faces of fusion cuisine: Asian chefs redrawing culinary boundaries
What was the first dish you learned how to cook or bake?
The simple and ubiquitous egg—sunny side up (which I still prefer to this day), to be exact. The first dessert I remember making was polvoron and the more “sophisticated” boxed Sara Lee blueberry cheesecake. (Laughs)
What is one dish or ingredient that you couldn’t stomach growing up? How do you feel about it now?
I wasn’t a big offal guy for sure, and I’m still on the fence about it. Speaking of “not being able to stomach”—the stomach lining or tripe, boy, I was not a big fan of it because of its funky smell. But less than ten years ago, when travelling to Florence, I had 2 servings of the tastiest lampredotto of Da Nerbone in the Firenze market. Only then did I realise that, cleaned and cooked well, offal can be yummy.
Above Grilling outdoors in the '80s (Photo: courtesy of Tom Bascon)
Grilling outdoors in the '80s (Photo: courtesy of Tom Bascon)
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What is your favourite food memory from your childhood? Why is it so special?
As a child, weekends were spent in Himamaylan City, where my mom, Mencit was from: a sleepy and idyllic town then, about 90 km south of Bacolod. I still remember quite vividly climbing and eating from fruit trees of cereza (called aratiles in Tagalog), mulberry, star apple, santol and chico. It was so special because life was so simple yet fun then, being around relatives your age and doing almost anything without consequences.
What is a childhood breakfast you loved?
I really don’t know why, even to this day, but breakfast is still my absolute favourite meal of the day. Back then, eating eggs with chorizo (in Bacolod, it’s never called longganisa), corned beef or tinapa just brought a smile to my face. The first time I tried tinapa, tasting its smokiness, was like an A-ha! moment that I will never forget. So those three would be my favourite breakfast choices.
What is a childhood after-school merienda you loved?
Oh my, a flying saucer sandwich of tuna salad and cheese. Yummiest!
Read more: Meet B Boi–a pop-up secret menu by chef Raul Forés
Above Chef Tom Bascon donning the iconic In-N-Out Burger paper hat (Photo: courtesy of Tom Bascon)
Chef Tom Bascon donning the iconic In-N-Out Burger paper hat (Photo: courtesy of Tom Bascon)
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Is there a particular person, friend or family, that you associated with food and eating while growing up? Tell us about them and how they influenced you.
My dad, Dodong, hands down. Mind you, he wasn’t a cook—but he had a palate that could rival any chef then. To say that he enjoyed food was an understatement. He knew how to pick fruits when they were ready. He could immediately identify by taste and smell great-tasting, spoiled, or poorly seasoned food. From him, I learned to be open-minded about food, willing to experiment and try new dishes.
What is the one dish you miss the most from your childhood—something you used to always eat while growing up, but don’t have so much of nowadays?
I love myself a good burger, and the [family] hotel had the best burger in town. I could wolf down two of those in a heartbeat. I still try making it once in a long while. But burgers, as we know, aren’t the healthiest food choices out there, so I really have to stop myself from eating them.
A funny burger story involving my dad: In the ’80s, my good friend and I wanted to have McDonald’s when the second branch had just opened in Cubao. After enduring a two-hour shoe window-shopping trip to Marikina, where he tried several pairs but bought none, we were starving. I had my usual quarter-pounder with cheese, fries and vanilla milkshake. My dad initially refused to have anything. So when we finally got our order, I offered him “a” bite. He obliged. Taking one bite, then another, then another. I was like, “Dad!” At this point, my friend was laughing so hard because my Dad had already engulfed more than half the sandwich when I literally grabbed it from him. He was kind enough, though, to buy me a new one and happily ate the rest of my first burger.
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M Dining + Bar
French
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$ $ $
3/F Alegria Alta Building, 2294 Chino Roces Extension, Makati City, Metro Manila
About
Lauren’s love for food came much later in life than one would expect— an obsession awakened in the streets of Melbourne’s multicultural dining scene. Armed with this newfound passion, she returned to the Philippines determined to discover the best eats in her home country, with a personal advocacy to champion local cuisines and homegrown talent. Nothing is off-limits; if it’s delicious, it’s worth celebrating.
Work
As Tatler Dining associate editor, Lauren covers all things food and drink, from listing the latest openings in our monthly Dining Radar to interviewing chefs and bartenders about the biggest obstacles crippling the industry today. Beyond the digital space, she also organises Tatler Dining’s tentpole events, including Off Menu and Tatler Dining Kitchen, as well as the annual Tatler Best Philippines awards night and guide launch, detailing the best restaurants in the country.
For leads and event invites, contact her via lauren@tatlerphilippines.com or follow her on Instagram at @laurengolangco.
Photo: Ralph Mendo
