Cover Sonja Ocampo of Cupcakes by Sonja, Cakeshop by Sonja, and By Sonja (Photo: Courtesy of Sonja Ocampo)
Sonja Ocampo of Cupcakes by Sonja, Cakeshop by Sonja, and By Sonja (Photo: Courtesy of Sonja Ocampo)
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Before Sonja Ocampo (the woman behind Cupcakes by Sonja, Cakeshop by Sonja, and By Sonja) built her pastry empire, she enjoyed life’s simple, delicious pleasures just like the rest of us
In 2006, Sonja Ocampo realised her dream of opening Manila’s first cupcake store at Serendra, BGC. As the humble 42-square-metre bakeshop steadily grew a loyal following, the cupcakes packaged in the classic light blue box quickly became a staple at every gathering and celebration.
Fast forward nearly two decades later, and Cupcakes by Sonja remains the crème de la crème of the sweet treat. Signature flavours like Red Velvet Vixen, Vanilla Sunshine, and Lemon Drop are now household names, while Cakeshop by Sonja, established in 2015, has become a go-to name for custom cakes.
See also: Flavours of my Youth: Bettina Arguelles reflects on the food memories that shaped her
Then, earlier this year, the trusted baker revealed she’s got a couple more tricks up her sleeve with the opening of By Sonja: a brand-new bakery with an impressive range of pastries and other baked goods like scones, crêpes, galettes, viennoiserie, and of course, her signature cupcakes. “We’ve been happily making cupcakes and cakes for nearly 18 years, iterating them in various forms, shapes and flavours,” Ocampo shared in a recent Tatler interview. “However, I’ve always wanted to create other things, though I felt they didn’t make that much sense under the Cupcakes by Sonja brand.”
Before she began her pastry empire, Ocampo spent much of her childhood licking the batter off mixing bowls and getting cosy with her mum’s kitchen specialities. Get to know Sonja Ocampo and the flavours of her youth below:
Related: Sonja Ocampo reveals By Sonja, your new go-to bakery on Chino Roces
Above Sonja Ocampo in her youth
Sonja Ocampo in her youth
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What was your go-to comfort food growing up?
Pancake House spaghetti. My parents used to take us to their first branch in Magallanes as an after-school treat. As more branches opened, my friends and I became regulars at the one near our neighbourhood cinema in Alabang, often visiting during our downtime or when school got cancelled. I hardly get to go now, but it’s nice to drop by occasionally and see some of the old waiters as managers and be able to tip them generously.
What would you say is the one dish that ignited your love for food?
Crêpes. It was the first dish I tasted that I immediately wanted to recreate at home. I first had it during a trip to Paris, sparking a lifelong passion. Interestingly, crêpes were also the first dish I created for retail; I developed a menu for my brother’s crêpe kiosk while I was still in college.
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What was the first dish you learned how to bake?
Store-bought blueberry muffin mix. I loved making them with my mom when I was around 6 or 7 years old; it was our Sunday habit. I would lick the batter off the bowl with my fingers. I guess it was a sign of things to come.
What is one dish or ingredient that you couldn’t stomach growing up? How do you feel about it now?
Ketchup. I still don’t particularly love it, but I can have it in small doses now.
What is your favourite food memory from your childhood? Why is it so special?
Eating a birthday cake. They’re tied to memories of parties from my growing-up years, surrounded by people I love. Those gatherings were filled with laughter, games, and the anticipation of the cake-blowing out candles and making a wish. There is something magical about it. The flavour is simple but always conjures warm, joyous feelings.
What is a childhood breakfast you loved?
Spam and rice. Growing up in the ‘90s, spam wasn’t as readily available in the Philippines as it is today. I remember our relatives in the US sending us balikbayan boxes filled with various goodies, including Spam. We always had a good stock, making it a breakfast staple in our house.
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What is a childhood after-school merienda you loved?
My mom’s lasagna. It was always a treat to come home from school and be greeted by the aroma of Mom’s lasagna. With a cook at home and her busy schedule, Mom didn’t cook often, but when she did, it was special. Seeing her lovingly prepare each layer made the simple dish feel like a warm hug and turned every return home into a cherished occasion.
Is there a particular person, friend or family, that you associated with food and eating while growing up? Tell us about them and how they influenced you.
My mom. She always cooked our favourite food. It was her love language. She worked full-time but always made time and experimented a lot with recipes. And she loved sweets.
What is the one dish you miss the most from your childhood—something you used to always eat while growing up but don’t have so much of nowadays?
Kamameshi House crab rice. It’s a nostalgic family favourite from my childhood. They used to have many branches, but I think there’s only one left now that makes it, and it’s in Quezon City. My mom would also make a version of it, and I miss it.
Credits
Images: Courtesy of Sonja Ocampo
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About
Lauren’s love for food came much later in life than one would expect— an obsession awakened in the streets of Melbourne’s multicultural dining scene. Armed with this newfound passion, she returned to the Philippines determined to discover the best eats in her home country, with a personal advocacy to champion local cuisines and homegrown talent. Nothing is off-limits; if it’s delicious, it’s worth celebrating.
Work
As Tatler Dining associate editor, Lauren covers all things food and drink, from listing the latest openings in our monthly Dining Radar to interviewing chefs and bartenders about the biggest obstacles crippling the industry today. Beyond the digital space, she also organises Tatler Dining’s tentpole events, including Off Menu and Tatler Dining Kitchen, as well as the annual Tatler Best Philippines awards night and guide launch, detailing the best restaurants in the country.
For leads and event invites, contact her via lauren@tatlerphilippines.com or follow her on Instagram at @laurengolangco.
Photo: Ralph Mendo
