Cover By Sonja bakery by Sonja Ocampo
By Sonja bakery by Sonja Ocampo
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Small batch, handcrafted, and made with love, pastry expert Sonja Ocampo takes her brand to the next level and welcomes a new chapter to her story
Sonja has become a name in the Philippines that is now synonymous with some of the country’s best and most sought-after cakes and cupcakes. Cakeshop by Sonja and Cupcakes by Sonja were founded by their namesake, Sonja Ocampo, a woman who is completely devoted to sweets and pastry. She began her journey into F&B when she went to New York City to study culinary arts, but fell madly in love with the pastry program instead. After staging in several kitchens around New York for a few years, she decided it was time to take her talents back home.
They first opened Cupcakes by Sonja on September 8, 2006 during a time when the country was accustomed to more commercial bakery chains. “There wasn't any bakery where you could come in, and see or experience everything being made in front of you. Our open kitchen allowed customers to watch the entire process: from the moment the cupcakes were placed into the oven until the time the frosting is carefully placed on top of the cupcakes. We were open every day, baking 24 hours a day, for a good six years,” shares Sonja. "My background has always been French, as I was classically trained in culinary and pastry school, and then went on to work for a 4-star French Restaurant in New York City. But when I decided to open Cupcakes by Sonja in 2006, I felt the menu had to primarily reflect an American theme, aligning with the brand’s concept,” she adds.
Above By Sonja bakery by Sonja Ocampo
By Sonja bakery by Sonja Ocampo
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Today, she is flocked to for customised desserts and her iconic signature creations. But, as of late, she revealed a major development for the Sonja pastry empire. Meet By Sonja, a new concept housed in Pasong Tamo right in the heart of her bustling commissary. The commissary has been there for five years, but it was only recently that she felt compelled to take the brand to the next level.
This charming takeaway boutique boasts an array of delicate and decadent pastry treats, from the sweet to the savoury. Here Sonja expands the menu well past cakes and introduces a range of breads and veinnoiserie creations as well. When you step foot into the shop, be hypnotised by the smell of freshly baked confections and be allured by that unmistakable, intoxicating bready aroma. The first thing that will capture your attention are the chiller displays with a range of cakes and pies, while the countertop features a variety of tempting treats from kouign ammans, mille-pressés, crêpes, galettes, and savoury croissant sandwiches too. The entire menu is produced in small batches made daily, using only the freshest ingredients. Customers are invited to observe the dynamic team through the glass panels, peeking straight into the open kitchen.
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“We’ve been happily making cupcakes and cakes for nearly 18 years, iterating them in various forms, shapes and flavours. However, I’ve always wanted to create other things though I felt they didn’t make that much sense under the Cupcakes by Sonja brand.”
Two menu items she is immesely proud of are here mille-pressés, crêpes and galettes. She fell in love with its delicate frame and combination of juxtaposing textures in a mille-pressé, from a perfectly crunchy pastry shell to a velvety smooth custard centre. Her excitement about crêpes and galettes dates back to 1995 during her first-ever trip to Paris. She took a deep dive into Breton crêpes (her favourite variation) and spent 10 days learning how to make them while in the heart of Brittany, France. Now at By Sonja you can dig into butter and sugar; honey and yuzu; salted caramel; or opt for a savoury ham, egg and cheese crêpe or galette too.
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She also focused on developing a range of plant-based, sugar-free and gluten-free baked goods and pastries to ensure that all sweet-toothed carb-lovers would be able to dig into her creations. “We’ve consistently been receiving requests for these items over the years, especially during the pandemic when there was a surge in demand for healthier options. We do listen to our customers greatly, and strive to cater to their diverse dietary preferences, ensuring there’s something for everyone to enjoy,” she expounds.
Above By Sonja bakery by Sonja Ocampo
By Sonja bakery by Sonja Ocampo
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The entire operation in Pasong Tamo is also making a strong effort to be as sustainable as possible as she strives to establish a small circular business model. At By Sonja, they compost regularly and use the nutrient-rich soil to grow fruits and vegetables at her family farm, which they then harvest and use in the bakery!
Her many travels to New York, France and Japan, foodie capitals around the globe, gave her great inspiration, and sparked her hunger to create. “In developing our flavours we are guided by a sense of refinement and restraint,” she explains. It is this ability to hold back, and to edit oneself that I find is key to differentiating good restaurants from great ones, and this rings true all the way to dessert and bakery goods too. “We work hard to achieve what we believe is the ideal balance of flavours and sweetness. I guess this is where the Japanese sensibility comes into play. We aim for simplicity in everything we do and strive to deliver in the best way we can.”
Now that she is able to further refine and expand her skillset, venturing deeper into the world of pastry, By Sonja serves as an extension of who she is as a chef as she grows. You can keenly observe this evolution through By Sonja’s branding which is more elegant and refined in comparison to the more playful and bold Cupcakes by Sonja. In fact, the signage and store frontage were designed by people whom she admires greatly. Enseignes Brillo, a French brand known for its eye-catching expertise and artistry with signage, lettering and visual identity, came to Manila to perfect the By Sonja storefront.
Above By Sonja bakery by Sonja Ocampo
By Sonja bakery by Sonja Ocampo
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“Septime is my favourite restaurant in Paris, and I love Clamato too. I've been following all of Bertrand Grébaut’s brands on Instagram for years; I’m such a fan. Apart from the food, the design aesthetics always captivated me, leading me to follow the accounts they tagged in their exterior design posts. This eventually led me to discover Etienne “Paul” Renard of Enseignes Brillo, and I was immediately drawn to the exceptional work they had done across Paris. In a spontaneous moment, I decided to reach out and inquire if they would ever consider working on a project in Manila. With no expectations, I sent a message, thinking at most they might design something remotely. To my surprise, Paul personally responded, offering to paint my storefront during his planned visit to Manila just a few weeks later,” recounts Sonja.
Much to her delight, it turns out that Bertrand (her favourite restaurateur) is Paul’s brother-in-law. “A few days later, Paul returned to continue and finish the work at my shop, and he brought Bertrand along. It was truly a magical day for me. It reaffirms the notion that the universe has ways of aligning things in unexpected ways, we just need to ask, and take a leap of faith.
While this leap of faith has just kicked off, despite her excellent track record, Sonja humbly admits that this forward trajectory is all quite green. “Everything is still new, but what I do know is that it's been really fun working on all the new offerings we have. And creatively, I feel freer to play around. I’m so excited to continue to dream up and expand our menu,” she conveys. As a big fan of Cupcakes and Cakeshop by Sonja, observing the direction and evolution of the Sonja brand is nothing short of exciting for me. For Sonja Ocampo, the future is looking quite sweet.
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About
Isabel loves to learn, and see things from different perspectives. Connecting with people and engaging in new experiences to broaden her horizons is what inspires this storyteller, keeping her constantly curious, and excited for what's to come. An absolute love for all things F&B ignited a hunger to devour content from this world and keeps her jumping into tasty adventures around the globe. From the beauty of simple bites, to nuanced fine dining tasting menus, street food, and the art of entertaining, the multi-faceted nature of the dining experience is something she can't get enough of. A good cup of coffee or a glass of wine paired with a dash of witty conversation is a quick way to win her over. This editor loves travelling, food, music, skincare, fitness, and is only friends with people who love dogs. Guilty pleasure?: Binge-watching TV shows and movies she has already seen.
Work
Concept creation is the name of the game and branding takes centre stage in Isabel's day-to-day schedule. From producing shoots, conceptualising bespoke projects for our partners, relationship management, to cooking up features and events for Tatler Dining, this editor is a tried and tested foodie at heart. She mainly writes content for Tatler Dining, engaging in captivating discussions with restaurateurs, chefs, producers, and food enthusiasts to tell must-know stories. Aside from that Isabel manages Tatler Dining's flagship events like Off Menu, or Cocktail Festival and puts together the Tatler Dining Guide, our annual listing of the best eats around town.
Follow her on Instagram @isabelvmf.
