‘Sarap’ and ‘Palayok’ return to print: rediscovering lost classics of Filipino food writing

Fernandez (1934–2002) and Alegre (1938–2009) were formidable figures in Philippine letters: she, a professor and critic who helped shape food discourse in the country; he, a poet and anthropologist who saw language and cuisine as two sides of the same cultural coin. Alegre once referred to Fernandez as his “indefatigable editor, dear friend and comrade of many battles,” a description that hints at the warmth and rigour of their collaboration, one rooted in a shared pursuit of understanding what makes food—and by extension, Filipinos—distinct.

Their influence endures across generations. “I can’t emphasise enough how valuable, poetic even, this twin reissue of Sarap and Palayok is, the two volumes that bookend tita Doreen’s published work on food,” said Maya Besa Roxas, Fernandez’s niece. “Sarap with ‘Eddy’ Alegre in 1988 was the first, and Palayok in 2000 was her last; she passed away two years later. 37 years since Sarap, 25 since Palayok and they still read as fresh, insightful and vital as they did when they were new. They are classics now.”

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That sense of rediscovery and renewal is what drew Mara Coson, publisher and founder of Exploding Galaxies, to these titles. “We republish what we call lost classics of Philippine literature—books that never should have been lost,” she said. While the press had largely focused on fiction, “the call of Palayok and Sarap was too significant to ignore.” For Coson, the project also carries a personal weight: “I shared a desk with Clinton Palanca at a magazine job over a decade ago,” she divulged. “Clinton was best known as a food writer, though he was more than that,” she continued, explaining that it was he who introduced her to Fernandez’s work. “I dedicate these two books to him.”

The republication is not only a literary milestone but also a triumph in design. Designed by Miguel Mari, Palayok’s new edition is enriched with photographs contributed by Jilson Tiu, capturing both the quiet poetry and contemporary pulse of Filipino life from fishermen at dawn to the arteries of the city. Its twin, Sarap, was reimagined by designer Kristian Henson, working with illustrators Gianne Encarnacion, Kitty Jardenil, Elle Shivers and Eva Yu. “I’d like to think of these books as fraternal twins, despite the age gap,” said Coson, highlighting their contrasting yet complementary sensibilities.

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For Alegre’s son, Lakan Uhay Alegre, this republication bears both emotional and scholarly importance: “How can scholars truly understand Filipino food if Sarap, a canon on Filipino food studies, remains rare and inaccessible?” he asked. By returning these titles to print, he added, we make “invaluable knowledge on Filipino food affordable”—an act of returning Filipino food to its rightful place in cultural consciousness.

On October 11, Karrivin Plaza came alive to commemorate the long-awaited return of these vital publications, brought back to life through the careful stewardship of Exploding Galaxies and the creative collaboration of artists, designers and estates. What unfolded was more than a book launch—it was a vivid celebration of Filipino food and a testament to the enduring impact of Fernandez and Alegre, beyond the page.

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The afternoon kicked off at Whynot, a multi-purpose cultural hub known for its “transdisciplinary collisions.” Actor Bart Guingona set the tone with a live reading from Sarap and Palayok before the Exploding Galaxies team shared their experiences bringing the two titles to life. To say it was well-attended would be a drastic understatement; renowned chefs, photographers, writers, national artists and creatives across industries and generations, gathered for one shared purpose—a poetic demonstration of how food brings people together.

Among those in attendance were three key figures Coson acknowledged as “the most important in the room”: Maya Besa Roxas, Lakan Uhay Alegre and Alegre’s wife Joycie Alegre, who represent the authors’ estates. “Both tita Doreen and my father are nationalists,” shared Lakan, who took to the stage alongside Coson, Tiu and Henson. “They advocated for the core question of, What makes us Filipinos?”

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For Henson, the re-edition of Sarap posed a unique challenge. “It was exciting to see where we could take it,” he said, explaining how republishing offers the opportunity to explore visual storytelling. Over 30 new illustrations were commissioned from the four artists, whose styles ranged from “detailed and ornate” to “fluid and dream-like.” 

After he was tapped to work on Palayok, Tiu confessed he was surprised to discover just how many food photos he had collected throughout his career as a photojournalist. Scouring his archive, he selected images taken from Batanes to Davao to enrich Palayok. “It shows how timeless Doreen’s words are,” he commented. “The photos and words, they jive together like sawsawan.”

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Whynot’s Baby Imperial kept the discussion flowing with Living Culture: Gastronomy, Different Dimensions, Origins, a panel discussion featuring chef Stephan Duhesme of Metiz and Automat, UP Professor of gastronomy and food studies Raymond Macapagal, Slow Food Philippines executive director Reena Gamboa and Bea Misa-Crisostomo, the researcher and entrepreneur behind Ritual general store.

Drawing from Sarap and Palayok as prompts, the panel tackled questions both curious and confronting: Where did all the dayap go? Why didn’t chillies become popular in Luzon? How does industrialisation interfere with seasonality and diversity? And perhaps most importantly, how can we recentre the global conversation on the issues that matter most—not flavour trends or the hottest new restaurants, but fair food systems, local producers and endangered ingredients? “We’re in an age where we have to get real with it,” said Misa-Crisostomo, asserting the need to “un-foodie-fie food.” “People are so interested in Filipino food trending, but the food system as we know it is on the verge of collapse.”

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WhyNot also hosted collections of pre-colonial, regional and contemporary pottery, as well as a film screening by Timmy Harn, while the Moment Group ensured everyone was well-fed with Filipino bites. Upstairs at Archivo 1984, chef Claude Tayag curated an exhibition examining the Mexican roots of Filipino cuisine through art pieces and vintage cookware. The multi-hyphenate artist, food historian and restaurateur also gave a lecture entitled Pagkain Walang Kwento, Walang Kwenta (Food Without Story is Food Without Value) to an audience that eagerly listened as they munched on puto seco, saniculas and uraro.

Meanwhile, LICK (Lost Islands Center for Kape) served local single-origin roasts and a heritage horchata made with adlai and pili nuts, and Ritual presented an interactive vinegar tasting, inviting guests to taste, compare and appreciate the nuances of our precious suka across the archipelago.

On the sixth floor, Artbuds invited guests to paint their own grocery bags, while down the hall, Under Maintenance transformed into the Exploding Bookshop, where limited-edition slipcases of Sarap and Palayok were sold alongside riso prints, caps and other merchandise.

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Naturally, the restaurants at Karrivin Plaza joined the fun. Automat offered a special merienda with a riff on their beloved fried almondigas and a new cocktail exclusive to the event. Barangay Toyo put on a festive edition of Papi Jepe, inviting guests to slurp pancit habhab off banana leaves as if taking a shot of lambanog. The street food party paired perfectly with Brujo’s experimental beers too. Rounding out the celebrations at The Alley, The Underbelly Ramen debuted a daring sinigang ramen, Aphro displayed an exhibit of palayok by floral artist Pierre Capati and Three Squares Café + Bar served a decadent coconut latte.

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Expressing his gratitude for the overwhelming reception to his father and tita’s work, Lakan exclaimed: “Mabuhay ang Pilipinas, mabuhay ang panunulat ni Fernandez at Alegre. Lalong masarap ang buhay na pagiging Pinoy, hindi lang sa pagbabasa ng sinulat nila, pero kapag kinakain yung kinain nila! (Long live the Philippines, long live the words of Fernandez and Alegre. Life is more delicious as a Filipino, not only when reading their work, but when eating the very things they themselves savoured!)”

The return of Sarap and Palayok reminds us that to write about Filipino food is to celebrate who we are as Filipinos. “There’s a lot to discover and experience in Filipino food, and all of it to enjoy, describe, hold on to and taste,” Coson reflects. “Thank you all for being here to support the launch of the books,” she added. “You are why we do what we do.”

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