Cover Hai Tien Lo’s executive Chinese chef Edden Yap
Hai Tien Lo’s executive Chinese chef Edden Yap
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A year into his tenure, Yap refreshes Cantonese stalwart Hai Tien Lo with quiet precision—honouring heritage while gently recalibrating the dining experience for today’s diner
Taking the helm at Hai Tien Lo is no easy feat; after all, the Cantonese restaurant at Pan Pacific Singapore bears a storied legacy of more than four decades and continues to draw new and loyal customers. Enter Edden Yap, the veteran executive Chinese chef who joined last year and brought a contemporary perspective without losing sight of its craft and heritage.
Reflecting on his time so far, Yap believes the restaurant’s enduring appeal—where “guests in their 70s and 80s return with their grandchildren”—lies not in elaborate technique alone, but in its deep respect for ingredients and unwavering precision, the qualities that have formed the kitchen’s beating heart since day one.
To honour this while asserting his own identity, Yap and his team remain firm that “tradition is our root, but not our shackle”. Classical techniques remain intact, yet flavours are calibrated for today’s palate. Soups, for instance, are still simmered with old hen and Jinhua ham, though now presented with greater nuance and balance. Presentation, too, has evolved. “We don’t innovate for novelty—we preserve the elegance of Chinese aesthetics while presenting them with greater finesse,” he says.
Read more: A new era for Hai Tien Lo: meet executive Chinese chef Edden Yap
Chilled cherry tomato marinated in plum wine jelly
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Since taking over the kitchen, Yap has refined the menu with a measured hand, introducing his own creations alongside time-honoured signatures. Guided by respect for the classics, clarity of structure and balance of flavour, untouchable dishes remain, while preparation standards have been tightened to ensure consistency and precision—forming the backbone of the refreshed offering.
“A well-curated menu should unfold naturally, with a clear beginning, moments of build-up and a considered conclusion,” Yap observes. This philosophy has shaped a more deliberate progression of dishes—from appetisers through seafood and meats to dessert—allowing each course to flow seamlessly into the next.
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Above Hai Tien Lo’s interior
Hai Tien Lo’s interior
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Grounded in the Cantonese principles of clean, fresh and silky flavours, the dishes carry subtle layers of complexity designed to spotlight the main ingredient. These are exemplified in the barbecued Spanish honey-glazed Ibérico pork, lifted with a touch of finger-lime acidity, and the chilled cherry tomato marinated in plum jelly, where the ingredient unfolds in layered expressions—from cool freshness and natural sweetness to the delicate perfume of tangerine peel that leaves the palate light and refreshed.
Ultimately, a meal at Hai Tien Lo is where craft and heritage meet Yap’s contemporary perspective, coming together in a renewed Cantonese table that feels relevant today yet built to endure for years to come.
Credits
Images: Hai Tien Lo
Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
