Cover Executive chef Masashi Horiuchi and head chef Romain Fabre (Photo: Entier French Dining)
Executive chef Masashi Horiuchi and head chef Romain Fabre (Photo: Entier French Dining)
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We dive into the mind of the Paris-born head chef of Entier, who shares more about the restaurant’s new repertoire of dishes
“There are so many regional differences when it comes to French cuisine,” says Romain Fabre, head chef of Entier French Dining. “This is due to terroir and weather, as well as the produce that can be found within these areas.”
For instance, in warmer areas, such as the South of France, where Fabre’s grandparents are from, fresh tomatoes, olives, and basil takes the place of butter and heavy cream usually associated with French food. “This region shares borders with Italy, so Mediterranean flavours are very present,” he continues. Moving to Northern France, cuisine shares similarities with that of Belgium. “Meanwhile, Brittany has some of the best seafood since it is near the Atlantic,” he smiles.
Read more: Tatler Dining Guide 2024: The best French restaurants in Malaysia
Above Entier's luxurious interior
Entier's luxurious interior
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While Malaysia has its fair share of French restaurants, what Fabre noticed was missing was restaurants bringing out the nuances in regional French cuisine. While the talented chef was born in Paris, he would often visit family in the South of France, an area he holds close to his heart.
One of the dishes on Entier’s new menu, a classic Nicoise salad, comes from the area, but Fabre puts his twist on the dish with expertly poached lobster and a luscious Provencal anchovy dressing. “We present classic dishes in a modern fashion, delivering dishes that are familiar to customers, yet different in terms of plating and textures,” he says.
Above Nicoise salad
Nicoise salad
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Another notable dish from Provence is the foie gras-stuffed quail aux raisins, served with grapes and duck lardons. “Quail is not a luxury product, which makes the dish even more impressive,” he says. The poultry is served whole, glistening and plump.
From Burgundy comes parcels of escargots with pickled chanterelles, whereas from Paris, where Fabre was born, is the rich main of Japanese Wagyu tenderloin and foie gras.
See also: Eat & Cook goes fully local for its latest menu, rooted in supporting Malaysian farmers
Above Quail aux raisins
Quail aux raisins
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Many dishes also draw inspiration from Fabre’s journey as a chef. Working in a restaurant was not something that was always on the cards for the Economics graduate, but after his degree, he attended the Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon, later cutting his chops in Basque Country. This is the region a dessert of white chocolate chantilly and cherry compote is inspired by.
Above White chocolate chantilly and cherry compote
White chocolate chantilly and cherry compote
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A move to Switzerland would shape the latter part of Fabre’s career as a chef—his restaurant manager at the time moved to Ipoh and brought Fabre with him, who would later go on to start his own supper club and casual eatery in 2019. “However, I realised that I wanted to work in a proper French restaurant where I was passionate about what I did,” he recalls. As such, he joined Entier at the beginning of 2022, just after the pandemic.
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Above Escargots with pickled chanterelles, inspired by the region of Burgundy
Above Paris is where the Wagyu tenderloin and foie gras draws influence from
Escargots with pickled chanterelles, inspired by the region of Burgundy
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While it is not the inaugural menu Fabre is developing for the restaurant, it is the first that is inspired by Fabre’s French roots. “I felt that with the restaurant celebrating its six years, it was time to propose something different,” he enthuses. “I hope that those who try the menu will be interested to delve into the diversity of flavour France has to offer.”
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Images: Entier French Dining
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
