Cover Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
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The executive chef of Dr. Wine Poblacion plants his roots in Makati, serving French cuisine that is simple and comforting
Coming from Toulouse in the Southwest region of France, for chef Romain Escande, food was a big part of life growing up. The executive chef of Dr. Wine Poblacion might not have originally wanted a career working in the kitchen—he was simply interested in serving people and making them happy—but cooking together with family and coming together over enjoyable meals was very much a core memory. When he realised that the traditional high school setting did not fit his learning style, he followed his happiness all the way to culinary school.
When Escande went to El Nido, Palawan to visit a friend pre-pandemic, he met the owners of a French restaurant there and they offered him a job. He had to go home to France during the lockdowns, but returned to El Nido in 2022 and, thankfully, his job at the French restaurant was still waiting for him. Escande helped the owners restructure the kitchen and improve the menu, bringing a bit more professionalism and precision in the overall approach and operations.
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Above Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
Above Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
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One weekend in Manila, Escande met Dr. Wine owners Vincent Landais and Simon Côté, who at the time were looking to shift the brand’s focus towards the food. The goal was to make everything more consistent, so they were looking for someone with solid technical skills while maintaining the accessibility of the menu. After a good conversation, Escande decided to wrap up his stint in El Nido and the rest, as they say, is history. Recently, with Escande’s guidance and creative direction, Dr. Wine Poblacion has once again become a destination for relaxed yet well-executed French cuisine.
Read our interview below to learn more about chef Escande.
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What is your food philosophy and how do you apply it to your cuisine?
I always start by asking myself what I would like to eat. Then I consider how I want to enjoy it. It’s as simple as that. A chef once told me, cook as if you’re cooking for your fiancée. That stuck with me. It’s about putting care into everything. I don’t cut corners. I keep things simple but done properly. It’s not fine dining. I want the food to be generous, honest, and straightforward. I need to be happy with the dish myself before I put it on the menu.
What are the challenges that you face cooking French food in the Philippines?
The cooking itself isn’t the issue. It’s more about sourcing ingredients and the environment. In El Nido, it was very basic. Equipment was limited, and there were issues with power and water. Sometimes, it was hard to find fish or vegetables at all. In Manila, things are better, but you still need to manage supplies and keep everything consistent. Also, people’s eating habits here are different. In France, meals are structured with a starter, main course and dessert. Here, people order everything at once and share. That was something I had to adjust to. But I didn’t change the food itself.
Above Meet Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
Above Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
Meet Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
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What French ingredient can you not live without? Why?
Foie gras. I’m from the region where it’s everywhere, so it’s something I know well. I use it a lot in terrines, tartare and other dishes. It’s rich, bold and very French. When prepared correctly, it truly showcases the kind of food I love to cook.
Is there a Filipino dish that you have grown fond of? What do you love about it?
Kinilaw. I really love it. The raw fish, the acidity, the coconut milk, it’s just a beautiful balance. My girlfriend’s mom makes a great adobo, too. I haven’t had one better than hers. I also like isaw when it’s grilled and cleaned well. The best I had was in Salcedo. Not too sweet, just charred perfectly. And of course, lechon. Everybody loves lechon. For breakfast, tapsilog is probably my favourite.
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Above Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
Above Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
Dr. Wine’s executive chef Romain Escande
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How would you describe the current local food scene? What do you like or dislike about it?
It’s full of energy. Especially in Manila, there’s a lot of creativity, and people are open to trying new things. I really like that. The only thing I’d say is that sometimes consistency can be difficult, especially with ingredients or supplies. But the passion is there. That’s what matters.
What is the greatest misconception about French food? Instead, what do you want people to know about it?
That it’s fancy or too serious. That it’s only for special occasions. It’s not. French food can be simple and comforting, too. At Dr. Wine, we don’t do fine dining. We serve food that’s well-executed but not intimidating. You can come in, enjoy a dish, have a glass of wine and just relax. French food is for everyone.
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
