Legendary chef Greg Malouf on the art of elevating traditional cuisine, without butchering it

Equally spectacular are the eggplant fatteh, English pie-style musakhan (filo pastry with slow cooked chicken and sumac), and saayadiya made with farmed sea bass atop fluffy risotto rice, a departure from the typical basmati rice for better absorption of the rich crab stock it is cooked in. Also noteworthy is the “Butcher’s Mix Grill”, which is a hearty spread of beef kebabs, chicken tawook, lamb cutlet and kofta–all grilled over charcoal according to the diner’s desired doneness. 

Designed for sharing, Ummi Beirut’s dishes have been carefully planned to cater to group gatherings, just like in a traditional Lebanese home. “Lebanese meals are often communal affairs, presented in a manner that invites everyone to partake. It's not just about individual dishes but about creating a spread that celebrates togetherness,” Malouf says.

To stay true to Lebanese cuisine, Malouf’s menu uses traditional spices and vital ingredients–sumac, Aleppo pepper, pomegranate molasses, and rose water–imported directly from the souks of Beirut. Even the drinks are delightfully authentic. This includes arak (a potent Lebanese liquor  distilled from native grape varietals and anise seed), Lebanese coffee (prepared using hot sand, not fire), and Lebanese tea (rooibos tea infused with dried apple). And in an interesting combination of the best of both worlds, the “Habibi” cocktail combines gin infused with Lebanese tea and Mediterranean tonic, while the “Lesh La” fuses fresh Lebanese coffee with blended scotch and Mr Black Coffee liqueur. 

As chefs across the world increasingly seek to champion their own heritage cuisines, we chat to chef Malouf about his success in ensuring the preservation and progress of Lebanese cuisine, and how the world's varying flavours have helped shaped his culinary philosophy. 

How did you come to become involved with Ummi Beirut, and what is your involvement like?
I first met Sara Fenianos, co-founder of Ummi Beirut, and her husband in Beirut nearly five years ago. They were searching for a chef to oversee Ummi Beirut and reached out to me. They were passionate, and above all, their mission to rethink and present Lebanese food for a contemporary and global audience resonated with me. I did not hesitate to offer my consultancy services to help shape the restaurant's culinary direction. 

Tell us a bit more about how Ali Assaf came to become the head chef of the kitchen, and what you believe he can bring to the table.
Sara and her husband were also in need of a head chef for the Singapore location. I’ve always believed that Ali has the potential to be a great chef. We’ve worked together for three years. He is a bright, talented chef with really good ideas and whom I’ve seen blossom over the years. So, I entrusted him with this project, confident that he would bring justice to the role of head chef at the restaurant. 

In Singapore and Southeast Asia, a lot of the cooking is centred on spices, chilli, coconut milk, and pandan leaves. What are the similarities between Southeast Asian and Lebanese cooking?
At first glance, the culinary landscapes of Southeast Asia and Lebanon may appear to be worlds apart, but a closer look reveals some intriguing similarities. Both cuisines have a fondness for savoury pastries–be they baked, fried, or rolled, much like the spring rolls or curry puffs commonly found in Southeast Asia. This suggests a shared ethos of comfort and heartiness that transcends regional borders. 

When it comes to spicing, however, distinctions begin to emerge. Lebanese cuisine often opts for herbs over strong spices, but it also embraces sweet spices like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Intriguingly, there’s a potential kinship between the Chinese five-spice mix and the Lebanese baharat, which often comprises seven spices. Both blends incorporate similar aromatic ingredients, adding layers of complexity to their respective culinary narratives. 

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You’ve travelled and worked in many places across the world. What cities and their cuisines left the deepest impressions on you?
Travelling and working across the globe has been an enlightening journey, with flavours and culinary traditions leaving a mark on my palate. While it’s difficult to narrow down the list, a few undeniably stand out. Hong Kong captivated me with its blend of traditional and modern Cantonese flavours. Northern Italy, with its soulful, hearty dishes and expert use of simple ingredients, imparted a rustic elegance. Hungary introduced me to a world of complex spices and warming stews, while the South of France wooed me with its aromatic herbs, seafood, and world-class wines. 

Morocco had me with its labyrinthine spice markets and the symphony of flavours in dishes like tagine and couscous. Turkey's cuisine was an epiphany, melding the richness of the Mediterranean with the spices of the East in a tapestry of textures and tastes. Iran showed me the sublime art of balancing flavours, employing saffron, dried limes, and pomegranate to create dishes that were both nuanced and boldly flavorful. Southern Spain enthralled me with its Moorish influences, seen in the generous use of spices like cumin and saffron, and the ubiquitous presence of olives and almonds. Finally, Melbourne in Australia, where it all began for me, left a deep imprint on me for its multicultural food scene. 

Each of these cities has contributed to my culinary lexicon in their unique ways, enriching my understanding and appreciation of food as a universal language of connection and joy. 

Can you tell us how some of these cities inspired or influenced your cooking over the years?
Each locale introduced me to new techniques, ingredients, and methods, which have found their way into my repertoire over the years. Whether it’s the bustling local markets or the soulful home-cooked meals, the essence of these diverse cuisines has fueled my inspiration. Yet, I've always been mindful to incorporate these global influences subtly, so as not to overshadow the core integrity of the Lebanese kitchen that I hold dear. It’s a careful balance, but one that allows me to capture the heart and soul of what I aim to achieve in every dish. 

When it comes to blending cultures, “fusion” has become somewhat of a dirty word after being overused and abused in the earlier 2000s. What is the difference between “fusion” and the art of elevating traditional cuisines with foreign techniques and inspirations? 
Yes, fusion was abused and you’d get dishes that were just throwing everything together–like a culinary blender–with no respect for the original cuisines. It was more about novelty than harmony. Often, you’d end up with a plate of food that was just confusing. I think it was also because we were at a time in our gastronomic understanding where it was less about honouring and preserving heritage. 

But when you talk about elevating a traditional cuisine, blending it with other cultures or techniques, that’s a whole different ball game. That’s where the art and the intention come in. We're talking about deeply understanding the roots, the essence of each dish, and figuring out ways to celebrate that essence while introducing new flavours or techniques. The aim isn’t to create a mishmash but a harmonious blend, where every ingredient, every technique serves a purpose. It's a conversation between cultures, not a shouting match. 

For me, it’s all about that respect, that understanding of where each ingredient comes from and its cultural weight. You don’t just throw stuff in for the fun of it; it’s a thoughtful process. You adapt techniques to honour the dish you’re working with, not to twist it into something unrecognisable.

For example, at Ummi Beirut, the “Silky hummus with lentil dressing” features a lentil topping that is definitely not something you would typically see in Lebanon. We also put great care into making our hummus smooth and light. This is how we introduce subtle modernisation to a rather traditional dish, adding texture to it. Overall, the flavours of the hummus still remain authentic and true to what you’d find in Lebanon. 

So, the key difference for me is all about intention and respect. Fusion cuisine, the way it was deployed, muddled everything up. But when you’re elevating a traditional dish with inspirations from other places, it’s a form of culinary diplomacy. You’re establishing a dialogue between different culinary traditions, which I find incredibly enriching. You end up with something innovative yet deeply respectful of its roots. 

You are often called the godfather/high priest/master (the list goes on) of modern Middle Eastern cuisine. How is Middle Eastern food different now compared to when you were growing up?
I started my professional career with a dream to introduce a broader range and a different style of Middle Eastern food to the Australian dining scene. Growing up as the son of Lebanese immigrants in Australia, my home was filled with the rich flavours of yoghurt, cheese, flower waters, rice-stuffed vegetables, and sticky nut pastries. These wonderful tastes contrasted sharply with the paucity of offerings available in local Middle Eastern restaurants at that time. To most Aussies back then, Middle Eastern cuisine was synonymous with hummus, tabbouleh, and perhaps a falafel after a night at the pub. 

Fast forward to today, and the culinary landscape has transformed dramatically. Not only in Australia but also in many Western countries, there's a greater appreciation and adoption of ingredients like pomegranate molasses, preserved lemons, harissa, and za’atar. This change didn’t just come about. It was a conscious effort to not only share the incredible dishes I grew up with but to also modernise them for a new generation of diners. My aim was to step beyond the traditional constraints and introduce a culinary experience that was lighter, more layered, and contemporary.

Luckily people seemed to love it! I think a lot of my success was to do with the fact that Australia has always been receptive to new food cultures.You’d be hard-pressed to find a more vibrant, eclectic, and dynamic food scene anywhere in the world than in Australia. It was this stimulating environment that gave me the confidence to do things “my way,” and I'm grateful that people have embraced this new approach to Middle Eastern cuisine. 

Given all your accolades and strides you have helped the cuisine take, what is your proudest achievement thus far?
It has to be when I received a Michelin star while heading the kitchen at Petersham Nurseries in Richmond, England, back in 2012. That accolade was more than just personal recognition–it was a milestone for Lebanese cuisine and a testament to its rich, flavourful heritage. 

For me, the Michelin star embodied the essence of what I strive to achieve: elevating the cuisine and hospitality of Lebanon to a global stage. It was deeply humbling and affirmed that the decades of passion and innovation I’ve poured into my culinary journey were resonating far beyond the borders of my ancestral homeland. That, without a doubt, is my proudest achievement so far. 

And what would you like to see for its future?
There’s a depth and complexity to Lebanese cooking that comes from its history; we owe it to the cuisine to maintain that legacy. At the same time, I advocate for a contemporary approach that allows the cuisine to evolve and resonate with newer generations. Modern touches shouldn’t dilute the essence but rather amplify it, adding layers of flavour or technique that complement the foundational elements of the dishes.

Even more fundamentally, I envision a future where the core philosophy of Lebanese cuisine–sharing and generosity–continues to thrive. This isn’t just a way of cooking, it's a way of life. When I create dishes, it is this philosophy that guides me. It’s about preparing food that brings people together, that prompts them to pass dishes and share stories, that creates a space for community and connection. Keeping this communal ethos alive is not just important for those of us who cook the cuisine, but it's crucial for everyone who enjoys it. It’s this spirit of generosity that, I believe, will carry Lebanese cuisine into the future. 

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