Cover Nonyabong’s Uncle Jeff is serving his signature Peranakan dishes in Paris as part of an event organised by Parisian coffee shop The Hood. (Photo: The Hood)
Nonyabong’s Uncle Jeff is serving his signature Peranakan dishes in Paris as part of an event organised by Parisian coffee shop The Hood. (Photo: The Hood)
1 / 1
Relying on handwritten recipes from the 1940s, the private dining chef is bringing a slice of Singapore to the vibrant district known as Paris’ 11th heaven
What is the perfect amuse-bouche for a Singaporean meal? The answer for private dining chef Jeffrey Chia lies in kueh pie tee, a bite-sized dish loved for its multilayered medley of textures–a crispy shell, crunchy stewed jicama or turnip, firm and tender prawns, and aromatic chopped peanuts.
It is one of many quintessential Peranakan dishes that Chia, who runs the widely lauded Nonyabong, plans to wow French diners with during his stint at Paris’s culturally buzzy 11th arrondissement this week. Slated to happen from September 21 to 25, the pop-up event titled Chope Chope will see the septuagenarian presenting some of his most popular signature dishes at The Hood, a coffee shop run by Singaporean Pearlyn Lee and MasterChef France 2015 winner Khanh-Ly Huynh.
“I would like for Paris to join me in discovering Peranakan cuisine and experiencing the rich tapestry of Peranakan culture, the stories, and the traditions behind each dish,” Chia says. “I hope it transports them to a Peranakan home, by providing a full sensory experience that transcends borders (and crosses continents).”
Read more: Pastry chef Cédric Grolet on why Singapore was chosen for his first pastry shop in Asia
Above Jeffrey Chia cooks with the culinary knowledge imparted by his late mother, Nonyabong (Photo: The Hood)
Jeffrey Chia cooks with the culinary knowledge imparted by his late mother, Nonyabong (Photo: The Hood)
1 / 1
Growing up in a Peranakan household meant that Chia was exposed to the complexities of Peranakan cooking from a tender age. “My mother is 100 per cent Peranakan, and my father is also Peranakan, so that makes me 200 per cent Peranakan,” he jokes. Now, at age 74, Chia–fondly known as Uncle Jeff–is breaking boundaries, not through dreaming up newfangled creations but by respecting tradition and sticking to the 20 volumes of recipes and culinary knowledge his mother left him, each meticulously handwritten more than 80 years ago.
“My mother’s kitchen was where magic happened. She was an exceptional cook dedicated to authentic Peranakan flavours,” Chia recalls. The treasured volumes of recipes she left are “more than just culinary guidelines'' to Chia, who describes them as “historical testaments and a treasure trove, capturing not just the essence of the dishes but also insights into the socio-economic context of food in her time”. Such insights include the monetary value of food items, such as how much coconut 20 cents could buy, offering a rare glimpse into the way of life in pre-war Singapore.
Above Nonyabong's signature kueh pie tee consists of handmade crispy shells (Photo: Writer's own)
Nonyabong's signature kueh pie tee consists of handmade crispy shells (Photo: Writer's own)
1 / 1
It was this dedication to Peranakan cuisine that inspired Uncle Jeff to start Nonyabong as a tribute to his mother. “I wanted to continue the culinary legacy of my mother and to share her traditional recipes with a wider audience,” he says. “[I want the experience to evoke] feelings of being at your grandmother’s home, where every dish tells a story of our Peranakan heritage.”
“My mother, whom Nonyabong is named after, would have been 103 years old this year. It was her dream to share Peranakan cuisine and her recipes beyond Singapore, and we are now making it happen in Paris for the first, and definitely not the last time.”
Above Uncle Jeff anticipates introducing the French to buah keluak, a nut he refers to as the 'truffle of Southeast Asia' (Photo: Writer's own)
Uncle Jeff anticipates introducing the French to buah keluak, a nut he refers to as the 'truffle of Southeast Asia' (Photo: Writer's own)
1 / 1
Six years in the making, Chia’s first foray into Europe is part of The Hood’s founders’ mission to introduce Southeast Asian flavours to one of the world’s most important culinary destinations.
The third instalment in a series of four pop-ups held from April to November, previous episodes have seen MasterChef Singapore alumnus Vasunthara Ramasamy presenting authentic South Indian fare, and the team behind Willin Low’s The Kongsee serving their famous Roxy laksa. The final event in November will feature Urban Hawker by food consultant and Makansutra founder KF Seetoh.
Above Sago gula melaka being served at Nonyabong (Photo: Writer's own)
Above (Photo: Writer's own)
Sago gula melaka being served at Nonyabong (Photo: Writer's own)
1 / 2
We speak to Uncle Jeff to find out more about the preservation of Peranakan culinary traditions, and how he plans to translate the storied cuisine for the French audience.
What is it about Peranakan cuisine that you love so much and why do you think it needs to be preserved?
Peranakan cuisine is a rich tapestry of flavours and traditions, drawing from Chinese, Malay, Indonesian, and even some European and Indian influences. Its history is so rich and so intricate, [as can be seen] in the blending of ingredients, cultures, and techniques, producing dishes that are both hearty and refined. This cuisine tells the story of migration, assimilation, and innovation. With its intricate fusion of influences, it is a testament of cultural mingling and adaptation.
The reason I believe it needs to be preserved is twofold: firstly, to honour the generations that have meticulously crafted and passed down these recipes, and secondly, in an increasingly globalised world, it's essential to hold on to unique cultural identifiers. Like many traditional cuisines, it faces the danger of being lost in the face of rapid modernisation and globalisation. Peranakan cuisine is more than food—it is [a form of] history, identity, and art combined.
In case you missed it: The best KL-style Hokkien mee in Singapore, according to local chefs
Above Nasi ulam will make an appearance during Uncle Jeff's stint in Paris (Photo: Writer's own)
Above Chia expects beef rendang to be a hit with his new French audience (Photo: Writer's own)
Nasi ulam will make an appearance during Uncle Jeff's stint in Paris (Photo: Writer's own)
1 / 2
Can you give us some insight about the work that goes on behind the scenes, for you to present the authentic and amazing dishes your fans love so much?
Every dish is a labour of love and tribute to my mother, and a testament to serving authentic Peranakan cuisine. I don’t do fusion, fusion causes confusion.
It’s a combination of traditional recipes with fresh and high quality ingredients. I go to great lengths to source my ingredients in parts of Malaysia and Indonesia, many of which are indigenous to the Southeast Asia region. Each dish also requires a lot of work, including overnight marination and slow cooking to achieve the desired flavours.
Every guest I’ve had will attest, a meal here isn't just about food–it's a journey through the vibrant tapestry of Peranakan culture and heritage.
What are the dishes you will be preparing for Chope Chope in Paris?
Ayam buah keluak, because Paris needs to taste the truffle of Southeast Asia; otah otah (or otak-otak), because it's one of my signatures; kueh pie tee, the amuse-bouche for our French audience; beef rendang, because it’s a classic and will be a favourite for our French audience; and nasi ulam, because it’s traditionally a favourite for Europeans.
Above Otak-otak made using 80-year-old recipe left behind by Chia's mother, Nonyabong (Photo: Writer's own)
Otak-otak made using 80-year-old recipe left behind by Chia's mother, Nonyabong (Photo: Writer's own)
1 / 1
What are some of the challenges you had to overcome to bring Peranakan cuisine to Paris, and were there any changes you had to make to your recipes?
Translating the flavours of Peranakan cuisine in Paris has its challenges. The primary difficulty is sourcing specific Southeast Asian ingredients. These will have to be replaced with local produce or adapted accordingly. We will work with The Hood’s suppliers to find the closest alternative, and we will remain true to the essence of each dish.
Don't miss: How top chefs in Singapore celebrate their mothers and grandmothers in their cooking
Above Chia getting ready for Chope Chope in the kitchen of Parisian coffee shop The Hood (Photo: The Hood)
Chia getting ready for Chope Chope in the kitchen of Parisian coffee shop The Hood (Photo: The Hood)
1 / 1
How did you get roped in to do Chope Chope?
I met Chef Khanh Ly and Pearlyn Lee in 2017, where we joked about Nonyabong going to Paris. After a series of discussions over the years, and a shared vision to elevate Asian culinary heritage globally, we decided to join “Chope Chope”, which is a platform created by The Hood Paris and chef-consultant Jeremy Nguee (supported by Singapore Global Network and Airbnb) to put Singapore food on the global stage, and highlight the hard work and effort involved in Asian cuisine.
I was inspired because being a part of Chope Chope means more than just going to any pop-up or culinary event. It’s a cultural bridge that can connect Singapore to Paris, the culinary capital of the world, through our food heritage. Nonyabong’s recipes epitomise the true spirit of Peranakan cuisine.
Have you been to Paris before this collaboration? What are you looking forward to eating there?
My first trip to Paris was in 1987 and I have not boarded a plane for years. My mother, Nonyabong, had never stepped foot in Europe, so it makes bringing Nonyabong and our signature dishes to Paris all the more special.
I am looking forward to enjoying the local produce in season, and to see how we can adapt the flavours to local produce. I’m also looking forward to trying the food at The Hood and Nonette (which The Hood’s co-founders also run). I understand Paris 11 is the heart of gastronomy with a high concentration of quality restaurants, coffee shops and bistros. My palate is adventurous and I’m looking forward to trying classic French food, including French pastries and desserts.
