Cover The team behind Roots shifts gears with their sophomore concept, Branch in Siargao (Photo: Rocio Diaz Arcela, courtesy of Branch)
The team behind Roots shifts gears with their sophomore concept, Branch in Siargao (Photo: Rocio Diaz Arcela, courtesy of Branch)
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From a grilled cheese stuffed with mole brisket to a triple-decker French toast with unexpected twists, Branch offers fresh perspectives on brunch classics
Sometime in September 2023, an ambitious new concept opened in Siargao: Roots, a tasting menu restaurant by Casa Kaos. Brought to life by an eclectic cast of characters whose paths first crossed in Central, Peru, the restaurant offers a dining experience shaped not only by their colourful heritage but also by a shared commitment to creating positive impact in both their community and environment. Now, Casa Kaos shifts gears to introduce its sophomore project: Branch.
“From the beginning, we always wanted to do more than just Roots,” says Ricardo Miranda de Sousa, who manages the restaurant’s business operations, sustainability strategies and communications with transparency at its core. “The idea of brunch was always on our minds; we just didn’t know exactly how to approach it.” At some point, Roots did experiment with brunch service, but it was short-lived. “We realised that the market was categorising us as a tasting menu restaurant, and it didn’t make sense to all of a sudden offer something so casual under the same brand.”
Related: Meet the eclectic cast behind Roots: The Siargao restaurant with an interdisciplinary approach
Above Branch is housed in the same space as Roots in Kaimana Resort Siargao (Photo: Rocio Diaz Arcela, courtesy of Branch)
Above With Branch, Casa Kaos dons a more casual, approachable personality, while maintaining their reverence for local ingredients (Photo: courtesy of Branch)
Branch is housed in the same space as Roots in Kaimana Resort Siargao (Photo: Rocio Diaz Arcela, courtesy of Branch)
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While they decided to house the new restaurant in the same space—a sensible decision given its location within Kaimana Resort, allowing them to serve the steady influx of guests—it became clear that they needed to develop a new concept, one that better reflected the easygoing nature and broad appeal of brunch. Enter Branch by Roots, a name coined by chef Filipino Turrini, who leads the kitchen alongside chef Ines Castañeda.
“Branch is more approachable,” explains Miranda de Sousa. “[We carry] the same philosophy of using local ingredients, without losing care for those ingredients, but through dishes that are relatable—dishes that people can identify.” The menu reads like a collection of greatest hits, familiar plates synonymous with brunch fare but imbued with Casa Kaos’s clever twists. The open toast Eat Your Greens layers sayote, eggplant and goat cheese, topped with a runny slow-cooked egg. Meanwhile, the Branchwich packs crunchy porchetta into toasted focaccia with greens, pickles and a sweet-savoury onion emulsion—one of the menu’s heavier hitters.
See also: Beyond surfing: why Lokal Lab’s vision matters for a resilient, sustainable Siargao
Say Cheese: milk bread, three cheeses and brisket slow-cooked in mole (Photo: Rocio Diaz Arcela, courtesy of Branch)
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“It was important we acknowledge that we live in a surfing island—but also an island where there’s a lot going on at night, so people are hungover the next morning,” Miranda de Sousa remarks with a laugh. “So it was important to cater to those two markets. The idea was to offer something that’s filling, something that you know powers you up for a full day.”
As its name suggests, Island Fuel is designed for those seeking a post-surf feast. The only rice bowl on the menu, it’s packed with eggplant, pickles, furikake and a runny egg, with your choice of fried chicken or the catch of the day. For those haunted by the bitter regret of last night’s reckless decisions, comfort takes the form of Say Cheese, their indulgent spin on the classic grilled cheese. Made with pillowy milk bread, borracho cheese, chevre and mozzarella for that perfect cheese pull, it’s elevated further with brisket slow-cooked in mole—a nod to the team’s Mexican roots. Oh, and plenty of butter.
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Above Butter Me Up, the sole sweet on the menu and a must-try at Branch: a triple-decker French toast-PB&J hybrid with langka jam, peanut butter, caramelised butter and salted caramel (Photo: Rocio Diaz Arcela, courtesy of Branch)
Above Branch offers a selection of coffees made with beans from Lay Low Coffee Roasters, as well as natural wines, a twist on the Bloody Mary and plenty other refreshing picks (Photo: Rocio Diaz Arcela, courtesy of Branch)
Butter Me Up, the sole sweet on the menu and a must-try at Branch: a triple-decker French toast-PB&J hybrid with langka jam, peanut butter, caramelised butter and salted caramel (Photo: Rocio Diaz Arcela, courtesy of Branch)
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Their heritage likewise shines in Spanish Mornings: a torta or Spanish omelette with aioli and sourdough, which, like most other ingredients used at Branch, is sourced on the island from local artisans. Last but certainly not least is the show-stopping Butter Me Up: a triple-decker French toast-PB&J hybrid stacked with peanut butter, langka jam, caramelised butter and salted caramel. Sweet tooth or no, it‘s our pick of the bunch. Decadent? Absolutely. But what is brunch for if not guiltless indulgence?
On the beverage front, Branch balances recovery and refreshment. Their spin on the Bloody Mary is seasoned with patis and spiked with fermented labuyo sauce—perfect for those who require the hair of the dog or simply appreciate a boozy brunch. Like the caprese often featured on Roots’s tasting menu, their version of the brunch staple swaps tomato for watermelon, a fruit far sweeter than the local tomatoes available on the island. Housemade beverages such as kombucha, ginger beer or pineapple-mint juice may just wash away even the heaviest hangovers. And for those in need of a sharper jolt, Branch also offers a list of classic coffees, made with beans from their neighbours at Lay Low Coffee Roasters.
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About
Lauren’s love for food came much later in life than one would expect— an obsession awakened in the streets of Melbourne’s multicultural dining scene. Armed with this newfound passion, she returned to the Philippines determined to discover the best eats in her home country, with a personal advocacy to champion local cuisines and homegrown talent. Nothing is off-limits; if it’s delicious, it’s worth celebrating.
Work
As Tatler Dining associate editor, Lauren covers all things food and drink, from listing the latest openings in our monthly Dining Radar to interviewing chefs and bartenders about the biggest obstacles crippling the industry today. Beyond the digital space, she also organises Tatler Dining’s tentpole events, including Off Menu and Tatler Dining Kitchen, as well as the annual Tatler Best Philippines awards night and guide launch, detailing the best restaurants in the country.
For leads and event invites, contact her via lauren@tatlerphilippines.com or follow her on Instagram at @laurengolangco.
Photo: Ralph Mendo
