Beyond the plate: A deep dive into the brilliant minds of Singapore’s food scene

Zor Tan is one who lets his cooking do the talking in a culinary world sprinkled with big personalities and luminaries. Everything the young chef ever came across in life helped shape “The Circle of Life”, a personal philosophy held up by nine guiding principles that influence his contemporary cross-cultural cooking at Restaurant Born. “I often think of how every ending has a new beginning; that our lives from beginning till the end are a continuous full circle; and in nature, we are all interconnected,” shares Tan. Seen through this prism of principles, which includes shades of his decade-long career in elite French kitchens and personal milestones, his episodic menus weave in storied plates that balance both French and Asian gastronomy.

For instance, pigeon is presented as a highly conceptual plate alongside pearl corn, semi-dried tomatoes, and grains of barley and sunflower seeds. Visually, it depicts pigeons eating grains in a corn field but on a deeper level, Tan intends to challenge the palate with a protein that isn’t commonly enjoyed in Singapore.

In case you missed it: Restaurant Born reflects the life and culinary journey of its chef-owner Zor Tan

In the world of vegetable gastronomy, Jeremy Gillon is the authority. Hailing from the historic province of Savoie, the French chef shares a special affinity with nature and seasonality is the beating heart of his culinary philosophy at Restaurant Jag. Titled “The Vegetable Journey”, it involves the idea of eating better and making wise use of the bounties of each season. “Rather than insisting on cultivating tomatoes all year round, we should embrace what nature naturally provides, for a much diverse array of flavours throughout the year,” shares Gillon. 

Whether it’s the freshness of green peas in spring or juicy ripe tomatoes in summer, vegetables play the lead role with aplomb in every dish while proteins are carefully selected to lend contrast as supporting casts. For his autumn menu, there is nothing like the roundness of chestnuts that reminds diners of the season. To complement its comforting creaminess, Gillon pairs it with halibut, for its salinity and richness, and toasted green coffee, for an elegant touch of acidity.

When Christina Rasmussen first found out that Rude Skøv—a beautiful forest north of Copenhagen, where she foraged almost daily for five years—was cleared out just to make way for mountain biking paths, she was heartbroken. Since then, sustainability has been at the core of everything she does and it certainly isn’t a buzzword. At Fura, her (future) use of insects always grabs people’s attention but equally, much effort has been put into supporting local farmers that grow hydroponic greens and compact mushrooms as well as the conscious decision to use “ugly’” produce in efforts to double down on food waste.

Her creation of black garlic caviar, featured in both drinks and dishes at Fura, hones into the concept of collaborative survival. What is a witty response to harmful practices of caviar farming also pokes fun at those who put caviar on absolutely anything just for the sake of luxury. “It will take everyone’s effort to make real change and ask the same of those in power to do better. But for now, starting small is what matters. Starting is what matters,” asserts Rasmussen.

Kenjiro Hashida, known as Hatch, is unlike any other chef. Every granular detail at Hashida, from hidden "cookie" chopstick holders to precisely measured concrete slabs, is firmly guided by three profound philosophies. The first, Shu ha ri, describes Hatch’s progressive evolution from keeping with tradition while discovering modernities and free expression which transcends into developing his unique style. In an act to blend cuisines and challenge stereotypes, he most recently orchestrated a Chuka dim sum omakase—together with Chen Kentaro of Shisen Hanten and Hiroshi Yamanobe of Tokyo’s Yamanobe—where he created a dorayaki stuffed with mabo eggplant filling. 

The second, Shōmi hakkei, is a self-coined term that revolves around the thoughtful appraisal of past experiences to draw valuable lessons and intertwining the literal meaning of savour with the concept of Eight Views from East Asian art and poetry. As such, Hatch created the Merlion monaka—layered with miso, white bean paste and white chocolate—for his mother as a souvenir to honour his love for his family while paying homage to Singaporean flavours such as the humble kaya. Rounding off the trinity is Ryuu ryuu shin ku, where an unwavering commitment to perfection lies at the core of Hatch’s ethos. Each flawless Hashida macaron today isn’t without a painstaking journey of failures and desolation where Hatch spent over six months, including purchasing a ton to taste and analyse, in search of perfection.

READ MORE

Conscious Codes: The founders of sustainable cocktail bar Fura on using insect proteins in their menu

No code, no enter: The Backdrop brings back a bonafide speakeasy experience

What you need to know about Pullman Singapore Hill Street’s three new dining concepts