Cover Somma makes for one of the best fermentation-led restaurants in Singapore (Photo: Somma)
Somma makes for one of the best fermentation-led restaurants in Singapore (Photo: Somma)
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From inspiring circular kitchens to revivers of ancient elixirs and modern wellness practitioners, these leading chefs are bubbling up innovative fermented dishes that are good for both body and planet
Forget everything you think you know about fermentation being merely trendy kimchi on sourdough toast. From inspiring circular kitchens to revivers of ancient elixirs and modern wellness practitioners, these leading chefs, in pursuit of building flavours upon flavours, understand that fermentation unlocks umami depths that no amount of truffle oil can replicate: not to mention the ancillary benefits that come along with the practice, from reducing food waste to nurturing both gut microbiomes and planetary wellbeing.
For some of the best fermentation-led restaurants that represent gastronomy’s most fascinating frontier, look no further than these agents of fermentation.
Read more: The rise of fermentation in Asia’s top restaurants
Air CCCC
Above White Malaysian corn relish with romesco-inspired sauce (Photo: Air CCCC)
Above Local mahi-mahi ceviche (Photo: Air CCCC)
White Malaysian corn relish with romesco-inspired sauce (Photo: Air CCCC)
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Long before modern sustainability movements, fermentation was key to reducing food waste across Southeast Asia. Today, this wisdom is being re-embraced by conscious kitchens such as Air CCCC, where chefs turn discarded food parts into 30 innovative ferments. This commitment to circularity is evident in dishes such as the white corn relish, where a romesco-inspired sauce, made of fermented snack peppers, gochujang and confit garlic, pairs with white Malaysian corn relish. The whole corn is used, where husks are given a second life and turned into crisp emping crackers seasoned with togarashi peppers, which are used as a vessel for the relish.
Even the potatoes, sourced from Indonesia, are lactic-fermented for close to a week to develop denser, tangier spuds before being fried till crispy and served with a sambal yoghurt. Besides minimising environmental impact, fermentation also unlocks new flavours, aligning with Air’s holistic wellness ethos that cares for both body and planet.
Somma
Above Fermented ricotta stars in a vibrant salad, alongside fava beans, pine nuts, and white asparagus (Photo: Somma)
Above Mussels and razor clams in koji milk with wild garlic, squid garum, and a revitalised ancient Roman fermented fish sauce (Photo: Somma)
Fermented ricotta stars in a vibrant salad, alongside fava beans, pine nuts, and white asparagus (Photo: Somma)
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Somma’s Mirko Febbrile takes fermentation beyond sourdough and kombucha with his Solterra menu. Modelled after Puglia’s cialledda (bread salad), fermented ricotta stars in a vibrant salad alongside fava beans, pine nuts and white asparagus. Carnaroli rice is coaxed into a silky, naturally sweet amazake (fermented rice drink), a nod to Japanese culinary traditions, offering balance to the crisp teardrop peas. Milk-fed lamb arrives with accompaniments of homemade whiskey vinegar seasoned salad and mead-braised lamb tongues.
Febbrile’s brilliance shines most in his interpretation of mussels and razor clams. Koji milk makes base while wild garlic is seasoned with squid garum, a revitalised ancient Roman fermented fish sauce. This dish also infuses mussel powder into pasta, leaving no part of the crustacean to waste. With health-conscious foodies on a hunt for the next innovative spoonful, Somma translates age-old techniques for the modern palate.
Belimbing
Above Aged kampachi with picked pink guava and aged soy sauce (Photo: Belimbing)
Above Grilled firefly squid in rojak-inspired salad with pickled jambu, and Argentinian savoury haegor (Photo: Belimbing)
Aged kampachi with picked pink guava and aged soy sauce (Photo: Belimbing)
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Singaporean chef Marcus Leow, formerly of chef incubator space Magic Square and seafood restaurant Naked Finn, rethinks Singaporean cuisine with spectacular bravery. At Belimbing, he champions “new-gen Singaporean” cuisine, using fermentation techniques to redefine local flavours rather than relying on traditional nostalgia. Here, local fruits are given reverential treatment in Leow’s cold starters: think gems of pickled pink guava to lift aged kampachi (amberjack), which is then brushed with an aged soy sauce made from fish bones and trimmings. The pickled jambu (rose apple) lends brightness to a savoury hae gor (prawn paste) caramel sauce, made from slow-cooking Argentinian prawn shells over two hours. This is drizzled on a rojak-inspired salad with grilled firefly squids.
While Asia is no stranger to funky fermentation foods, Leow believes that shaping local cuisine doesn’t mean clinging to age-old traditions or depending on luxury ingredients. It is about celebrating the flavours that reflect who we are today.
Belimbing
Address: 296A Beach Road, S(199546)
In case you missed it: Belimbing by The Coconut Club offers a new take on Singaporean cuisine
Morsels
Above Homemade shio koji marinated Mangalica pork collar with black garlic assam sauce (Photo: Morsels)
Above Fjord trout cured in Sichuan pepper with Neri ume vinaigrette, pickled wakame, and cilantro oil (Photo: Morsels)
Homemade shio koji marinated Mangalica pork collar with black garlic assam sauce (Photo: Morsels)
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There is no discussing fermentation without Morsels chef-owner Petrina Loh. Over the past 12 years, her philosophy to eliminate monosodium glutamate, or MSG, in her cooking while retaining umami has not gone unnoticed. Homemade shio koji (Japanese fermented condiment made from koji rice, salt and water) is a mainstay in Loh’s artillery, used to marinate red shrimp, crab meat and Mangalica pork collar. The fermented tomato jus is also painstakingly created; green tomatoes are first fermented and combined with fermented chilli, then blended with fish sauce to lift the protein’s flavours.
Even gochujang, which Loh made in South Korea (and left some to age in Yangpyeong), uses pulut hitam (black glutinous rice), resulting in an earthier expression. When blended with veal jus, it goes in tandem with the rich Toriyama A4 Wagyu chuck roll. While fermentation does wonders for our gut health, Loh’s fervent stewardship embraces vitality through contemporary dishes rooted in Asian heritage.
