Chef Aaron Isip reveals a new tasting menu at Kása Palma

Chef Isip’s food clearly demonstrates his mastery of French culinary techniques, as well as a palate that expertly balances the complexities of Southeast Asian flavours and Latin spices with the restraint and refinement of haute cuisine. He recently launched a new tasting menu that showcases, like before, his preference for fresh local seafood and a flavour profile that takes his diners through his life experiences and love for exploration. “I normally try to update the menu every three to four months but with Kása it took longer this time since I had to create a completely different menu for our à la carte kitchen,” he explains. What can we expect from the new menu? “It’s almost the holiday season so we wanted to bring back dishes that our clients from Balai really enjoyed— some as is, some as new versions. We still concentrated on seasonal local fish, seafood, and even fruits that are in season right now, such as lanzones.”

With a glass of Champagne or perhaps the house signature mezcal-based cocktail Kása Madre, sit back and relish their hors d’oeuvres (displayed in dramatic stoneware that simulates a rocky ocean floor) for an eloquent introduction to the sophomore menu. The instruction was to start with the chicken neck barquillo stuffed with flower crab, crab roe, and tarragon mayonnaise, followed by the bright zing of the sea bream crudo on chicharron, and to finish with spider conch croqueta, pancetta Ibérica, and kamias tartar sauce for that explosion of flavour and texture.

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There is clearly no holding back from Isip, as the courses came in brisk succession, starting with the young corn kinilaw which features a corn mousse designed to mimic corn kernels. It acted as the case for horse mackerel doused in corn leche de tigre, grilled corn, and turmeric corn oil. “For this menu, I still wanted to put the best of the Philippines [in] the spotlight, hence the focus on fish and seafood,” points out chef Isip. “We want to showcase marine ingredients that you rarely see in restaurant menus around town or around the country.” Halo-halo del Mar was a dramatic display of the sea’s bounty featuring a cold bar selection of river prawn tartare, pusik horse conch, and sea urchin creme brûlée. In between bites, have a scoop of the orange ice which is not merely decorative. The iced “kansi” broth mimics the sour and savoury flavours of the classic Ilonggo beef soup, without the grease since the broth is plant-based. 

The popularity of the Ube in Three Textures puzzled me when I tried it for the first time in Balai Palma. However, it seems that chef Isip has applied some adjustments since then, demonstrating how altered proportions can improve a dish. The generous dollop of nomad caviar is not lost in that flavorful pool of creamy ube swirled with a clam emulsion, dotted with sweet bites of live halaan clams. I found myself scraping every last spoonful from its silver bowl, hoping for a few bites more. However, whatever anguish I felt was quickly forgotten after a bit of the sea mantis and somen in prawn bisque, which turned out to be more like a rich pasta than creamy soup. With bits of chicharron and shrimp crisp for texture, I had to hold back on finishing this to make room for the dishes still lined up and on the way.

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Palawan unicorn fish in clam-ginger-fish consommé is almost like a comforting bowl of tinola which offers temporary reprieve from the onslaught of intricately crafted dishes. It prepares the palate for the show-stopping lechon de lobster which has also seen some changes from the time it was launched. Just the good parts this time—a crisped tube of suckling pork belly confit encases roasted lobster tail and a layer of glutinous rice, served with a sauce trifecta (cilantro sauce, lechon jus, and calamansi tartar sauce) which, as fans of the maître saucier know, should be relished. As always, the Foiesilog—a heaping spoonful of garlic rice, quail egg, daikon-onion light soubise, and spring onion with pan-seared foie gras—delivers the coup de grâce that ensures satisfaction on all levels. 

Not leaving a stone unturned, chef Isip makes sure that his sweet endings are as memorable as the rest of his tasting menu. The popular lanzones sorbet makes a glorious comeback, adorned with longan coulis, longan cream, frangipani, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. A purple sweet potato ice cream benefits from some salty accents with foie gras salted cream and grated frozen foie gras, adorned with an ube tuille and soy cereal crunch. Even the mignardises—a seaweed custard madeleine and Vanauri Michel Cuizel dark chocolate with crispy misua and peanut butter (a clear wink at the viral knafeh pistachio chocolate bar)—are rich, creamy, and indulgent. Truly the fitting denouement to an engaging saga filled with memorable moments.

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Chef Isip discloses his plan to offer a version of the tasting menu that is showered with black and white truffles for the holiday season. Truly a luxurious update to what is already a festive and winning meal, but a welcome twist to those who are looking for something that is sure to make a statement. You only live once, as the saying goes, and if there is anything I learned from Isip and what he does in his restaurant is that we should celebrate the passing of each moment. And this moment in chef Isip’s journey is one marked with the clarity of a master who knows his strengths—as well as his imperfections—and wields it with comfort and knowledgeable intent. Kása Palma’s new tasting menu is a poignant indicator of where chef Isip is at this point in his culinary career, and clearly, he has reached a summit.

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