An expert discussion of Tet wine and traditional culture

No discussion of Vietnamese Tet wine would be complete without mentioning yellow sticky rice wine, a speciality originating from the treasures of the Northern Delta. Known as the “queen” of sticky rice varieties, this wine derives its name from the golden hue of the rice flowers. The shimmering golden liquid offers a refreshing, rich, and pleasant flavour. Travelling southwards, Bau Da wine from Binh Dinh is renowned for its clear underground water, sourced from the rock veins around the Tay Son region, lending the wine a distinctive flavour that cannot be found elsewhere. The enjoyment of Bau Da wine is an art in itself, from selecting the perfect glass to lifting the bottle with precision.

Further in the Central Highlands, Ruou Can is an essential part of communal ceremonies for ethnic minorities. During festivals, people gather around jars of Ruou Can, taking turns to sip the unique wine, its sweet, spicy, and enduring aroma warming their bodies. In the plains, the coconut-rich land of Ben Tre beckons visitors to sample its famous coconut wine, crafted from fresh coconut milk, offering a sweet taste and a fragrant aroma that lingers on the palate.

Thus, it becomes clear why wine tasting in Vietnam is not just a pastime, but a way to preserve and share the country’s cultural identity.

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In the era of 4.0, Tet wine is no longer just a drink tied to tradition or folk medicine; it has ventured into new realms where experiences and stories take centre stage. With the rise of personalisation, young people are reshaping the narrative of wine, transforming it into an integral part of a modern and sophisticated lifestyle.

Tatler spoke with experts from three distinct restaurants and bars: Duong Tung Bach, Head Bartender at 3Pias Clubhouse—a classic yet contemporary bar offering Vietnamese-inspired cocktails in Hanoi; Tan Nguyen, Co-founder and Head Bartender at U Bar—a venue dedicated to special cocktails “brewed” from nostalgic memories of home in Ho Chi Minh City; and Chau Nguyen, Co-founder of Nam Me Kitchen & Bar—a space exploring modern dishes and drinks inspired by the tranquil Mekong River.

Tan Nguyen shares his passion: “Vietnamese wine has a unique flavour, especially traditional sticky rice wine. Each region and each family has its own method of choosing rice and fermenting, making the flavour incredibly diverse.” Indeed, Vietnam boasts countless types of wine across its regions, from the rich sticky rice wine to the bold Bau Da wine, or the sweet apricot wine of the Da Lat plateau.

At Nam Me, this diversity is captured through distinctive cocktails such as Tu Dong Toi Thap, made with the renowned Hong Sen Tuu wine from Dong Thap, combined with dried lotus seeds and handmade gin, or Tau Hu Ben Tre, a unique cocktail blending the sweetness of longan with the richness of coconut milk. These drinks offer not just a delightful drinking experience, but also tell captivating stories of culture.

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However, traditional wine in Vietnam faces certain challenges in its development. “Strong in quantity, but not guaranteed in quality,” is how Duong Tung Bach describes the reason Vietnamese wine has yet to establish a widely recognised brand. Meanwhile, Tan Nguyen adds, “Vietnamese wine has not been effectively communicated, lacks large-scale wine importers and professional distribution systems. This limits its access to both domestic and international markets.”

In response, bars and restaurants such as 3Pias, Ú Bar, and Nam Me have taken proactive steps to incorporate Vietnamese wines, utilise local ingredients, and collaborate with established winemakers to ensure the highest quality products. Tan Nguyen expresses his enthusiasm: “Through delicate blending and preserving the flavour of rice yeast, we aim for diners to gain a deeper appreciation for the value embedded in Vietnamese wines.”

Young people today do not drink to get drunk; rather, they drink to experience and explore. All four experts shared this view. Specifically, Chau Nguyen commented: “Modern young people are reshaping drinking culture towards a more sophisticated direction, drinking less but focusing on quality, experience, and emotional value. They seek drinks that are not only delicious but also tell a story, honouring national identity.” This shift has paved the way for innovative creations, such as regionally inspired cocktails that combine local ingredients like pandan leaves, tea, coconut, and lotus seeds, as seen at Nam Me.

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Join Tatler for a more detailed exploration with each expert to discover how they are preserving national identities, while also refreshing them through modern cocktail creations.

Duong Tung Bach—Head Bartender at 3Pias Clubhouse

What inspirations shape your cocktails, especially your Vietnamese-inspired creations?

At 3Pias, we base our cocktails on local ingredients and culture, using them as a foundation to craft drinks that showcase Vietnamese heritage. Purely Vietnamese materials are a rich source of inspiration, helping us introduce the essence of Vietnamese culture to our guests.

For me, Vietnamese wine is diverse not only in types but also in the flavours that range from North to South. Everywhere I travel, I make sure to preserve the full spectrum of aromas, which I then incorporate into our creative cocktails at 3Pias.

Among the cocktails at 3Pias, which is the most popular drink? How do you usually introduce them to customers?

I’ve recently created a winter menu at 3Pias with the theme “Vietnamese Street Food.” One of the cocktails inspired by Hai Phong’s sui din has been particularly popular. It resonates with customers due to its familiar taste, yet brings a fresh new experience.

As a bartender, how does the traditional Tet holiday affect your view of alcohol compared to normal days?

For me, wine has always been a sacred drink, one that has been integral to ancient rituals and continues to play a significant role today. Moreover, Tet wine has the ability to connect souls through its flavour. When people share wine and reflect on the joys and sorrows of the past year, that’s perhaps the best form of therapy for the soul.

Tan Nguyen—Head Bartender at U Bar

As someone passionate about the art of mixing, do you view the meaning of wine during the traditional Tet holiday differently?

Tet, for me, is a time when the hustle and bustle of life seem to slow down, making room for the joy of family reunions. Every year as Tet approaches, I’m reminded of my mother carefully wrapping banh chung, the fragrant scent of dong leaves and sticky rice filling the yard. My father is busy cleaning the house, while my siblings and I help prepare the food trays. These moments form warm memories that make me nostalgic every year as Tet draws near.

Tet is also the time when family members, no matter how busy, make an effort to come together for a Tet meal and enjoy the first cup of wine of the year. It is this “bonding” quality that inspired me to create cocktails specifically for this festival. I want each drink at U to embody the spirit of Tet: rich in rice yeast, faintly fragrant with sticky rice, warm, and full of love. I believe each glass of wine is not just a drink, but also a symbol of reunion and the family love that Vietnamese people cherish. When diners take a sip, I hope they will feel the joy of reunion and a nostalgic sense of Tet at home.

What is the inspiration that shapes the menu and Vietnamese cocktails at U Bar?

U Bar was born from a love for our parents and grandparents. From the fairy tales told by my mother to the dishes made by my grandmother, all these elements became the inspiration behind U. The diversity of raw ingredients and the wealth of folk cultural treasures are valuable assets that U wishes to preserve and share with customers, both near and far.

Among the cocktails at U, which is the most popular drink? How do you usually introduce them?

In addition to U–Me–Shu—a cocktail combining sticky rice wine, kumquat, and lemongrass—this Tet holiday, we are excited to introduce the Banh Chung Banh Giay drink. This cocktail carries the unique flavour of sweet wine made from Seng Cu rice, blended with Hanoi vodka, combined with mung bean cake, and enhanced with a batch of plum wine aged for two years. The flavour of yellow sticky rice wine rounds off the drink, creating an unmistakable “Tet” sensation.

Chau Nguyen—Co-founder and owner of Nam Me Kitchen & Bar

In your opinion, what sets Vietnamese wine apart from international wines? How does Nam Me honour those values?

Each international wine has its own identity, shaped by the art of distilling local ingredients, manual processes, and regional culture. In Vietnam, wine uses local ingredients such as sticky rice wine, rice wine, plum wine, lotus wine, and more. These unique ingredients not only set Vietnamese wine apart in terms of flavour, but also in the stories behind its production process.

At Nam Me Bar, what is the most popular Vietnamese cocktail? How would you introduce it?

Tau Hu Ben Tre is the signature cocktail of the bar. It blends familiar flavours, such as tofu with coconut milk and pandan leaves, with Vietnamese rum and ginger juice. At Nam Me, we introduce guests to the cocktail-making process, starting with the creation of foam. The bartender prepares it by cooking a mixture of young tofu, coconut milk, and pandan leaves, then cooling it to create a smooth, fatty texture. The cocktail itself is a blend of rum, balancing the sweet and sour notes with ginger cordial and coconut juice, creating a refreshing and delicately smooth drinking experience.

If there is one cocktail worth trying on New Year's Eve at Nam Me, which one would you recommend?

Da Co Hoai Lang is a cocktail not to be missed during Tet at Nam Me Kitchen & Bar. This highball celebrates the flavour of Bac Liêu longan, combined with the rich taste of whiskey and the refreshing sweetness of longan syrup. This drink is not just for enjoyment; it also carries the story of spring in the West—full of vitality and the flavour of a modern homeland.

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