Founder Sandeep Hathiramani looks to reinvent age-old punches and ageing cocktails for the modern day
The first cocktail is widely credited to be the Old Fashioned, mentioned in texts for the first time in the 1880s, although punches—normally comprised of a spirit, a sweetener, citrus juice, and water—have been around since the 17th century; a proto-cocktail, if you will. It's this prehistory of cocktails that Sandeep Hathiramani, co-owner of Tell Camellia and The Wise King, has honed in on for his latest opening, Thirsty Shaker.
Set high above the entrance to Soho's Peel Street, the bar and lounge features a communal jigger-shaped table indoors, and a large outdoor terrace—designed to accommodate groups of guests to better share the sharing-style punches that are the focus of the menu.
Among the offerings are the Bombay Royale Punch, a recipe that has been around in one form or another since it was first recorded in Surat, India in 1632; in the Thirsty Shaker version, it comprises raspberry, apple, rose, makrut lime leaf, oleo-saccharum, firewater tincture, ginger and gin. Meanwhile, the Dicken's Punch [sic] hews to a prototypical formula for punch by combining Darjeeling tea, rum, brandy, and nutmeg. Each punch is presented in a large bowl with a ladle, and serves two to six people.
Related: Through The Stirring Glass: Flavours Of An Indian Childhood With Sandeep Hathiramani
Meanwhile, the latter half of the drinks menu pays homage to a more recent chapter in cocktail history, with "revived" (read: elevated) takes on signature drinks from the '80s and '90s—a period of time considered the 'dark ages' of mixology due to a preponderance for artificial sour mixes and bottom-shelf spirits. Cue fresh new takes like the Lai Zi Martini, a riff on the Lychee Martini that uses gin, lychee, gentian, jasmine and fortified wine; the Oaxacan Sunrise, which injects the Tequila Sunrise format with artisanal mezcal, Campari, and habanero bitters; and the Amaretto Punch, which clarifies the divisive classic using a milk wash for a smoother profile.
As for the prospect of sharing a punch in a post-Covid world, Hathiramani remains unfazed, likening it to the use of communal chopsticks to pick from Cantonese family-style dishes. "With punches we do the same: a ladle is served and guests have their own glasses." Indeed, punch was originally drank by British sailors to fend off scurvy—although the jury is out still on whether the same effect applies to our modern scourge.
Thirsty Shaker, 3/F Floor, Hilltop Plaza, 49 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong; +852 9880 5997, thirstyshaker.com
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