We went to Niigata to discover what makes premium Japanese sake

Niigata’s terroir and proximity to the Sea of Japan give it the ideal conditions for sake brewing. Thick snow in the mountains melts, flowing into rivers, feeding fertile land for rice growing. This pure mountain water is soft with low mineral content, resulting in a slow and gentle fermentation within breweries. 

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The number one producer of rice in Japan, Niigata is known best for sake rice varieties like Gohyakumangoku, which produces light and clean sake, and Koshitanrei, a cross between Yamadanishiki and Gohyakumangoku, which gives the resulting sake a rich and aromatic flavour. The latter, Koshitanrei, was developed after 15 years of research and work by the Niigata Agricultural Research Institute, the Niigata Prefectural Sake Research Institute, and the Niigata Sake Brewers Association.

Sake making is an intricate process, which begins with the polishing of sake rice, which removes the outer layer, containing fat and protein. During brewery visits, we learn that the more highly polished the grains, the more refined and delicate the flavours—in the case of Daiginjo, a premium category of sake that requires master craftsmanship, 50 per cent of the kernel is polished away. The polished rice is then washed and soaked before it is steamed.

The steamed rice is inoculated with koji spores, a mould that transforms rice starches into sugars. In the breweries, rooms filled with large vats are where the fermentation mash (the mixture of steamed rice, koji, water, and yeast) is stored at controlled temperatures and sugars are converted into alcohol. Once fermentation is complete, the mixture is pressed to separate the solid sake lees from the liquid, before ageing and bottling.

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Each brewery has its own artisanal expertise when it comes to sake-making. The first brewery we visit is Kato Shuzoten, a small establishment run by Ichiro Kato in Sado City. In 2017, the decision was made to only use Sado-grown rice, and with the intimate scale of operations, it is able to maintain environmentally friendly practices, such as reducing pesticides in its rice cultivation processes. The resulting sake has a refreshing, soft mouthfeel and clean taste. 

The other two breweries are much older and larger, with brewing practices that date back more than a century. Maruyama Shuzo was originally established in 1897 as a koji-making shop, and the brewery continues to make koji by hand. Surrounded by expansive rice fields, the brewery is renowned for its representative brand Setsuchuume, one of the few sweet sakes originating from the area with a crisp and clean finish.

Kiminoi Shuzo, located in Myoko, is the oldest of the three breweries. Founded in 1842, it is run by 7th generation Tomohiro Tanaka and still practises the traditional yamahai method of brewing which emphasises natural fermentation, growing lactic acid bacteria, rather than introducing its commercially-cultured counterpart. This practice results in a sake with soft acidity and rich flavour. Some of the rice used is grown by Tanaka himself and the award-winning Kiminoi Yamahai series has won gold awards at the Kura Master Japanese Sake competition in France and the US. 

Niigata’s abundant snowfall, seasons, and fertile land result in the perfect conditions for crafting high-quality sake. The dedication of local breweries, from small and eco-conscious producers to century-old establishments showcase the region’s commitment to both tradition and innovation. The synergy between nature’s bounty and craftsmanship intertwines to make Niigata’s sake truly exceptional.

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