Cover Diageo hosts the Southeast Asian launch of the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami in Raffles City, Singapore

Johnnie Walker whisky master Dr Emma Walker and three Michelin-starred chef Kei Kobayashi prepared a multi-sensorial dining experience in Singapore for the Southeast Asian launch of Blue Label’s latest expression, Elusive Umami

For something as rare and luscious as Johnnie Walker Blue Label, an experiential event was befitting to hold the launch of its latest innovation. At the heart of Singapore’s central business district, some of the most stellar personalities in Southeast Asia’s thriving fine dining and liquor scenes gathered to witness the regional unveiling of the brand’s newest blend—Elusive Umami.

In three batches for its first launch day, the Diageo team welcomed significant personalities in Southeast Asia’s food and beverage industry, like Nico Bolzico, David Ong, and Angelo Comsti, into a tasting experience of the iconic Johnnie Walker Blue Label. This premiere, led by Johnnie Walker brand ambassador Darryl Saw, made them recall the distinct flavours and characteristics of the brand’s coveted variety. Eventually, they were led into a roundtable to savour the newly released Elusive Umami blend of Johnnie Walker Blue Label for the first time.

Led by the blend’s primary collaborators, three Michelin-starred chef Kei Kobayashi and Johnnie Walker whisky master Dr Emma Walker, the experience was not only informative but also visceral as the event was designed to awaken the senses into a deeper appreciation of the elements that inspired the Elusive Umami.

Read also: Johnnie Walker launches new umami-infused whisky with chef Kei Kobayashi

Tatler Asia
Above Dr Emma Walker and the chef Kei Kobayashi

Because the Japanese concept of umami as the “fifth flavour” is somehow indescribable, its literal translation of “deliciously tasty” may seem vague to many. “When chef Kei and I set out to capture the essence of umami, we knew we were taking a step into the unknown by embarking on an exciting journey of flavour exploration,” Walker said.

“Emma and I needed to determine the theme when we started this collaboration. At first, I was told to remove Blue Label’s characteristics and come up with my own take on the complexity of its distinct flavours,” Kobayashi recalled.

The painstaking journey of finding the elusive umami flavour profile was achieved successfully by drawing into the chef’s memories and the whisky master’s knowledge of the blends available across all distilleries of Johnnie Walker. One in 25,000 casks among the brand’s 10 million reserves were used to concoct Elusive Umami.

“What I was looking for with Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami is not only the taste but an emotion—think of the forest at 5am as the scents rise after the rain. It should be a feast for the senses,” Kobayashi said.

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Above Johnnie Walker brand ambassador in the Philippines Nico Bolzico happily takes a photo of the King Crab chawanmushi with burnt butter, and Johnnie Walker Blue Label infused beef broth

The sumptuous taste, complexity, and transformative depth of Elusive Umami were borne of the ingenuity of the three Michelin-starred chef and the whisky master’s hardworking team. On the nose, it has sweet notes of green and red apples with hints of cashew nuts. This is complemented with savoury notes of salt brine. Sipping Elusive Umami gives one a depth of flavours that begin with sweet notes of apple and white peach, then give way to mandarin, blood orange, and red berries. More savoury notes like sweet wood spice, smoked meat, and warming salt and pepper could be discovered. Finally, its smooth finish evokes sweet fruit notes and a lingering taste of wood spice.

Read also: Capturing the essence of umami with the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami

Tatler Asia
Above The Water Room, which served King Crab chawanmushi with burnt butter, and Johnnie Walker Blue Label infused beef broth
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Above The Wind Room, which served the celeriac cream made with Johnnie Walker Blue Label and black truffle
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Above The Earth Room, which served wagyu beef tartare served with N25 Kaluga caviar, pommes boulangère, and anchovy

Chef Kobayashi prepared a sumptuous appetiser, a buckwheat waffle carrying Kaviari “Kristal” caviar, served with smoked salmon and sour cream sauce. Here, the attendees were introduced to Elusive Umami’s perfect serve—neat, with caviar. This dish’s intense flavours and creamy texture highlighted the whisky’s minerality on the palate. The brilliant pairing elevated the liquor’s taste and tempered the seafood’s appetising power.

The next dish was a hay-smoked lobster delivered from Scotland, accompanied by shiitake mushrooms, a lobster bisque sauce, and mild chilli condiment. Seafood enhances the strength of the liquor. But when guests were introduced into three different rooms to taste three other dishes that realise the elemental inspirations for the flavours of Elusive Umami, guests then find out how well the whisky goes with other dishes.

Aptly named after natural elements, the Earth, Wind, and Water rooms were designed aesthetically to conjure the elements they represent and give guests visual interpretations of what inspired chef Kobayashi in making Elusive Umami. In summary, the most elusive notes of umami are reminiscent of the depths of the earth, combined with natural smoky undertones to bring warmth. The chef’s childhood home inspired this in the mountainous surroundings of Nagano City. Meanwhile, saline umami notes blend with minerality, savouriness, and sweetness that craft deep richness to the whisky. Lastly, the winds of time and the air that matures whisky in its casks allow the ingredients to ferment into rich flavours.

Tatler Asia
Above The perfect serve for Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami: whisky neat with caviar

Accor Hotels’ head chef prepared dishes for each room: the wagyu beef tartare served with N25 Kaluga caviar, pommes boulangère, and anchovy for the Earth Room; the celeriac cream made with Johnnie Walker Blue Label and black truffle for the Wind Room; and the King Crab chawanmushi with burnt butter, and Johnnie Walker Blue Label infused beef broth for the Water Room. He also prepared a chendol kueh pie tee with nitrogen coconut cream and gula mulaka as a palate cleanser.

The guests returned to the blue circular room to indulge in chef Kobayashi’s dessert, a chocolate tart sprayed with Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami.

Read also: How Johnnie Walker Blue Label imagines the future of luxury dining 200 years from now

The beautiful partnership between the chef and whisky master resulted in a blend that brings its consumers to an East meets West journey of flavours and experience. It defies expectations and elevates one’s standard of sophistication—rooted in heritage and aims for classic elegance. Kobayashi takes pride in being the first Japanese chef to earn Michelin’s distinction and a stellar career in Paris. Meanwhile, Walker is the first female to hold the revered position of whisky master of Johnnie Walker.

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Photo 1 of 4 Distinguished personalities from the media and the food and beverage industry from across Southeast Asia get to taste the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami in a multi-sensorial six-course dinner
Photo 2 of 4 Hay-smoked lobster delivered from Scotland, accompanied by shiitake mushrooms, a lobster bisque sauce, and mild chilli condiment
Photo 3 of 4 Buckwheat waffle carrying Kaviari “Kristal” caviar, served with smoked salmon and sour cream sauce
Photo 4 of 4 Distinguished personalities from the media and the food and beverage industry from across Southeast Asia get to taste the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami in a multi-sensorial six-course dinner

“This pairing of Japanese dishes and Scotch whisky embraces a world of flavours, thanks to the chef Kobayashi for pioneering this expression,” Walker said.

As a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and the art of whisky craftsmanship, Walker assures Johnnie Walker collectors that this collaboration with Asian chefs and artists will not be the last. Diageo, a global leader in the alcoholic beverage industry, aims to promote more partnerships of artistic minds among its brands to produce quality products befitting its clientele’s exemplary taste.

Elusive Umami is a limited-edition release available in limited quantities in the Philippines. Avail this exclusively at S&R, through Diageo Private Sales Channel via diageoprestige.ph@diageo.com and singlemalt.ph.

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Franz Sorilla IV
Art and Culture Editor, Tatler Philippines
Tatler Asia

About

Before assuming the Art and Culture Editor position, Franz has always had a penchant for visual and performing arts. He is passionate about exploring and writing about the local cultural scene and rediscovering the country’s storied past and rich heritage. Besides working on this luxury lifestyle magazine, Franz is an avid book reader, local traveller, museum-goer, chorister, and community theatre playwright.

Work

Franz earned a degree in Journalism from the University of Santo Tomas. He writes about local visual and performing artists and their craft; drinks wines, liquors, and spirits and talks about the creativity of their respective winemakers and master blenders; tries to learn more about business and investments; respects the tradition and artistry that go behind the making of watches and jewellery; and appreciates the genius of architecture and creative design.

As head of Tatler Philippines’ pool of writers, he helps them bring impactful and socially relevant stories to light.

For any leads, you may reach him through @franzsorillaiv on Instagram or franz@tatlerphilippines.com via email.