Johnnie Walker launches new umami-infused whisky with chef Kei Kobayashi

A gong was sounded and we moved into a dark blue circular room. We were seated around a circular high table with a small reflecting pool and a bottle of Elusive Umami placed in its centre. More bottles of the new limited-edition whisky were placed around the table, looking as much like artworks as they did libations. Chef Kobayashi and Dr Walker welcomed us and described their journey, each praising the other’s willingness to collaborate and how much they learnt from each other. The best way to understand the whisky, of course, was to taste and we were quickly invited to sample this new and very unique spirit. At first taste, it was remarkable how Dr Walker did manage to create a whisky that captured both sweet and savoury notes. What I was to discover next was how different foods accentuated these notes differently.

We were served a creation by Chef Kobayashi, a beautiful buckwheat waffle, topped with Kaviari Kristal caviar and accompanied by a smoked-salmon-sour-cream sauce that he encouraged us to pour over the caviar. I was at first sceptical that the caviar would work with the whisky but upon my first bite, I was proven wrong. The creaminess from the seafood and the sauce worked brilliantly with the Elusive Umami. 

Next up was a dish of hay-smoked Scottish lobster, served with shiitake mushrooms, a lobster bisque sauce and a mild chilli condiment. Brilliantly conceived, I noted that the smoke of the lobster, umami from the mushrooms, and spice would all be reflected in the whisky. What I didn’t expect and was pleasantly surprised by was how the whisky tasted sweet alongside this dish. 

In contrast, towards the end of our experience, Chef Kobayashi served a beautifully oozy warm Valrhona chocolate tart, spritzed with some of the whisky itself. That same whisky took on another dimension, tasting very different than when it was paired with the lobster. This time it was punchy and powerful, but still worked magnificently well with the dessert.

In between the lobster and tart, we were led through three additional rooms, each designed to reflect a different key element in understanding umami: Earth, Water, and Wind. In each room, we were also fed a dish, this time created by Accor’s head chef, that also complimented the new Elusive Umami. Of these, the most enjoyable was a wagyu tartare, accented with anchovy and topped with Kaluga caviar. This was in the Earth room, a space fashioned to make you understand the natural essences of smoke and warmth that are found in many umami foods and that are infused into the Elusive Umami whisky. Also compelling was the King Crab chawanmushi served in the Water room. For many of us, umami is most readily identifiable through the combination of sweetness and savouriness, often found in foods coming from the sea—think nori and dashi for example. The crab dish elegantly captured this in a serene and surreal space that recreated a Japanese water garden. 

Savouring the Elusive Umami across Asia

Whisky lovers in Vietnam were also able to experience this unique whisky for themselves when the Elusive Umami was launched in Ho Chi Minh City last October 9 to 10. More than 100 guests comprising media, trade partners and celebrities descended into the ‘Heart of Umami’ located at 5 Senses Restaurant at Hotel Nikko Saigon, where they were welcomed by Dr Walker and Masterchef M. Burc Tuncel Trussardi. The experimental chef prepared The Uni, fresh uni encased in a molecular mango bubble and drenched in an umami sauce; Maracuja, passionfruit mousse topped with puff rice and uni; and black sliders, squid ink brioche served with Iberico jamon and truffle, and Walker took them through the whisky pairing where the umami notes of the brown spirit accented the flavours of the canapés. 

Similar to the experience in the Lion City, guests were ushered to three multisensory rooms—Earth, Wind and Water—which allowed them to better understand the different facets of the brown spirit. In the Wind room, for instance, they were immersed in rustling and tumbling autumnal leaves, while the Earth room enveloped them in the warmth of nature. Both of these rooms were reminiscent of Chef Kobayashi’s memories growing up in Japan and being surrounded by nature.

Water is an important part of whisky-making, and it made sense that the final room pays tribute to it. Project mapping that turned the walls into a liquid blue canvas brought the guests underwater, while Japanese blue lanterns gave the room an aquatic afterglow. In between each room visit, guests were served Vietnamese dishes, ensuring that everyone enjoyed a veritable feast for all the senses. And as they gathered back to the ‘Heart of Umami’, they were treated to a decadent dessert of chocolate ganache curated by Trussardi just for the event.     

The appreciation for the Elusive Umami also reached the sunny shores of Thailand, the Philippines and Malaysia when Johnnie Walker toured the countries’ capitals to spread the word about Elusive Umami.

In Manila, where a one-night-only, eight-hands tasting experience dubbed “Feast for the Senses” took place at the reopened Makati Shangri-La Hotel on October 9, Dr Walker shared that the Elusive Umami is “a testament to Johnnie Walker’s dedication to pushing the boundaries of whisky craftsmanship”. Having said that, she guided guests through a whisky mentoring session that delved into the intricacies of this exclusive blend. At one point, she even served the Elusive Umami with a spoon of Oscietra caviar, unravelling the whisky’s umami notes that accented the flavours of the sea. 

After the session, guests were serenaded with live music courtesy of the Manila Philharmonic Orchestra as they tucked into an exclusive menu crafted by chefs Edwin Lo of Makati Shangri-La, Don Baldosano of Linamnam MNL, and Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar of Cafe Aurora.

Kuala Lumpur didn’t escape the allure of the Elusive Umami when Diageo’s brand ambassador in Malaysia, Chong Wai Keng, also hosted a mentoring session for whisky lovers at SKY35 on November 1. Guests were welcomed with refreshing Johnnie Walker Blue Label cocktails before they were whisked away for an intimate tasting session and sampled the classic Johnnie Walker Blue Label.

The beauty of the Elusive Umami is how each sip accentuates the umami flavours of the dishes, and guests experienced this for themselves at the whisky pairing dinner. Chong took them through the nuances of the Elusive Umami, which was served with the likes of Kaviari Transmontanus caviar, sushi, wagyu beef don and tempura don.

The last stop took place at The Glass House - Park Nai Lert in Bangkok on November 1, and esteemed guests including pop singer and actor Krissada Sukosol Clapp, and actors Vasin Asvanarunat and Luke Ishikawa Plowden discovered the Elusive Umami’s signature characters of dried fruits and spiced, laced with savoury umami notes. Even better, the drams were served with specially created dishes by Ecole Ducasse executive chef Antonio Cortes Barenque. Ewan Gunn, Diageo’s global whisky brand ambassador, who attended the event on behalf of Walker said it best. “By focusing on the elusive ‘fifth taste’ of umami, we have created a whisky which embodies premium quality and luxury, aligning with the global trend of upscale indulgence.”

After the whisky tasting experience across Asia, whisky lovers had a clearer understanding of umami and a deeper appreciation of the challenge to create a whisky guided by a focused, and gastronomic, vision. The Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami is truly a one-of-a-kind spirit. On the nose, it is uniquely sweet and savoury—fresh apples, confections, cashews, but also salinity. In the mouth, you first taste apple and peach, then oranges and berries, but this quickly transforms into spice and smoked meats with a hint of salt and pepper. The finish transforms again, becoming sweeter and fruitier. 

Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami has launched globally on October 16, while pre-orders have started on October 2, 2023. Find out how you can own this exquisite bottle by clicking on the country of your residence: Singapore, Vietnam, Malaysia and Philippines. Drink responsibly. Please visit DrinkIQ.com to find out more.

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