Cover Second-generation owner and managing director Mark Varadi

Bringing exceptional vintages of the Tokaj region to Asia, Varadi speaks on taking tradition to the next generation, the region's illustrious history, and plans for the future

Leaving the aviation industry behind, second-generation owner Mark Varadi took over the reins of Juliet Victor Vineyards as managing director in February 2023. His first order of business? To redefine the perception of Hungarian wines across the world by creating the world’s finest Tokaji wines. First founded in 2016 by his father Jozsef Varadi, the award-winning producer boasts over 30 hectares of vineyards in the Tokaj region, both in the villages of Mád and Tállya.

Young Varadi has always had a hand in the family business. “I was part of it from the beginning in the strategic arm but never operationally involved in the day-to-day,” said Varadi when he spoke with Tatler Dining. It was only in 2021 when the winery chose to set up Juliet Victor Asia in Singapore, that he got closer to the family business. The Asian outpost now serves as the exclusive importer and distributor of Juliet Victor wines, dishing out a portfolio consisting of dry furmint wines and traditional sweet Tokaji wines, such as aszú and szamorodni, that are a blend of furmint, hárslevelű and yellow muscat.

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Tatler Asia
Above Tokaj wines from Juliet Victor Vineyards

The work of introducing an unfamiliar wine region into a new market has officially begun. “Singapore is an ideal place as sommeliers are open-minded enough to try different wines. When these opinion leaders decide to list our wines on their wine list, it not only speaks of the quality of the wine but also provides a platform to translate our story which inspires confidence for consumers who have never tasted such wines to want to try them,” explains Varadi.

“Beyond brand positioning, most consumers may not have been to the Tokaj region, and would almost never pick a dry furmint wine by themselves,” adds Jaclene Liew, director of Juliet Victor Asia. “By working closely with fine-dining restaurants and reputable wine bars with proper wine programmes, we find that consumers are more likely to explore.” Since then, wine enthusiasts can now find Juliet Victor wines stocked in three Michelin-star fine-dining destinations: Odette, private wine club 67 Pall Mall and even progressive seafood and wine bar Humpback.

Tatler Asia
Above Head winemaker and viticulturist Zsolt Vincze

For the uninitiated, the Tokaj region is renowned for its illustrious history of producing exquisite wines that span centuries. “Hungary shares a similar longitude as Burgundy which makes it one of the world’s most optimal wine-growing countries,” shares Varadi. It was also the first place in the world to register and document individual vineyards in 1737, predating the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. 

Today, the winery operates under the expert guidance of head winemaker and viticulturist, Zsolt Vincze—trained by István Szepsy who is widely regarded as Hungary’s most influential winemaking figure. Thanks to the bountiful volcanic terroir, Juliet Victor wines can be characterised as being mineral-driven. And to enhance the subtle fruit notes, instead of masking them, Vincze only uses large Hungarian oak casks—ones that brandish a light to medium toast—during the ageing process.

Tatler Asia
Above Juliet Victor Aszú

Tokaj wines are known for their high levels of acidity which makes them great to pair with the robustness of Asian food. Through hosting a pairing event at The Coconut Club, Liew suggests that “Tokaj sweet wines, especially the Juliet Victor Aszú, go extremely well with spicy food—think local dishes such as the nasi lemak sambal and laksa” On the other hand, “it also helps to tone down the spice, especially when it comes to eating mala hotpot, something very popular in Singapore,” continues Varadi.

The quest to showcase the application of Tokaji wines to Asian cuisine ensues as “Furmint February” is fast approaching. Liew reveals that there are upcoming masterclasses that offer oenophiles an opportunity to compare wines across various single vineyards within the exceptional 2019 vintage as well as a Tokaji wine dinner pairing held at the Mandala Club on February 27.

“I want the world to rediscover a wine region with so much heritage and help establish a presence in Southeast Asia and eventually, North Asia,” affirms Varadi. “I think this benefits not just Juliet Victor but also the entire Tokaj region and this is my family’s way of giving back.”

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Juliet Victor Vineyards

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