Cover Egon Müller of the world-famous Scharzhofberger vineyard
Egon Müller of the world-famous Scharzhofberger vineyard
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The legendary Scharzhofberger winemaker reveals the rare gems he keeps in his cellar, favourite Asian food pairings, and the wines he wishes to try
In the heart of the Mosel region in Germany, where terroir whispers tales of tradition and rieslings once commanded even higher prices than wines from Bordeaux, sixth-generation winemaker Egon Müller IV sits firm as riesling royalty. Within the Scharzhofberger vineyard, the family estate is prized for its steep slopes along the River Saar where weathered slate soils and cool temperatures result in desired temperature fluctuations.
Today, under the watchful eye of Müller, his wine-making approach is full of care and precision—think minimal chemical interventions and producing low yields—the estate unlocks the full potential of vines that trace their roots back to the 19th century.
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From the off-dry kabinett to the opulent trockenbeerenauslese (TBA), the Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling comes in varying styles, all garnering both acclaim and commanding prices. More recently, it was ranked as the most expensive wine on the planet when the 2003 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger TBA sold for over 12,000 euros (approximately SG$17,500), easily ousting even the coveted greats of Burgundy—an unparalleled testament to quality. Beyond its prestigious heritage and flourishing status as an investment instrument, the Scharzhofberger wines, especially the kabinett, make for sensational pairings with Asian cuisine. Tatler Dining got to learn more about those pairings when we met up with Müller during his visit to Singapore this past week.
Above Egon Müller walking the grounds of the Scharzhofberger vineyard
Egon Müller walking the grounds of the Scharzhofberger vineyard
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Taking his first sip of the Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2020, Müller describes the wine as being immensely drinkable. “It should smell and taste of slate. Young wine as such is also fruity, with lots of flavour but still comes as a light package. There has to be sugar and acid where ideally, each opposing one should hold the other in balance,” he expounds.
When asked about his favourite Asian food pairings with Scharzhofberger wines, Müller recalls his first encounter in Asia when he travelled to Japan back in 1985. There, he tasted Japanese cuisine and immediately took a liking to it. “Japanese food is so delicate. In general, a very good match for the kabinett where it isn’t too sweet or too overpowering,” he explains. “High-quality sashimi and sushi work particularly well with the kabinett too.”
When it comes to Cantonese cuisine, where large format dishes are often presented and eaten at the same time, “it is hard to enjoy multiple pairings but if there is one wine that covers every dish, I would choose the kabinett over a big bold red,” he quips. Visiting Thailand for the first time as a travelling winemaker in the early 90s, Müller had his first taste of Thai cuisine at The Oriental Bangkok (now the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok) where he was exposed to a higher level of spice.
“The food was really spicy so I ordered the only German wine on the menu, a Schloss Vollrads Spätlese, which helped tamper the heat beautifully,” Müller expresses. “Halfway through the dinner, my bottle was already empty and I was on my own. And that’s probably what you call a perfect match.” Singaporean cuisine shares similarities, “the spice from black pepper crab may go well with a kabinett but better when it is a riper spätlese,” he says. The conversation continues as Müller reveals the rare gems he keeps in his cellar, the wines he wishes to try and more.
An early (in your career) wine that made you go ‘Wow!’?
1949 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese. When I was born, my father gave me a drop of it… before I even got my first sip of milk.
Most memorable pour?
I can’t choose to decide between 1959 Chateau Lafite Rothschild and 1959 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Why 1959? Because they are vintages from my birth year.
Tipple for a Tuesday?
Château Belá 2018 Pinot Noir. Everything about the vintage was right. In fact, I bought myself a whole pallet.
Sun, sea and …?
Probably Champagne. If I snap my finger and a bottle magically appears, I want it to be a Krug Clos du Mesnil.
Wine of the moment?
The Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2020, no question.
What is a wine you have not tasted before but wish to try?
Anything Screaming Eagle.
What do you love to share with family and friends?
Definitely old wines from my cellar.
A special something?
The 1976 vintage of the entire Egon Müller Scharzhofberger range in my cellar, arguably the greatest vintage of my father’s time. A year with plenty of noble rot where the wines turn out nicely balanced.
Above Egon Müller of the world-famous Scharzhofberger vineyard
Egon Müller of the world-famous Scharzhofberger vineyard
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Bottle to bring to a dinner party?
It’s a disadvantage when you’re the wine producer because people would expect me to bring my wines. That said, Egon Müller Scharzhofberger wines are classy enough to bring it to discerning oenophiles but also not too over the top for anyone.
What’s in the most prized wine in your cellar?
The 1959 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). The first ever made from the estate. If it was ever put up for sale, it’ll probably be more expensive than my collection bottles, even the record-breaking 2003 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese that sold for upward of 16,000 euros.
What would you want to be your last (final) glass?
I would like not to know that it was my final glass.
If not wine, then what?
I can’t live without a cappuccino and I make very good cappuccino. I usually start my day with two cups over breakfast and maybe more depending on what I get up to.
Credits
Images: Peter Bender
