Cover Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2023
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2023
1 / 1
Tatler+
At the recent launch in Singapore, we spoke to Cloudy Bay’s technical director Jim White about what makes the Sauvignon Blanc 2023 and Te Koko 2021 special
Whenever New Zealand winery Cloudy Bay releases vintages, it always captures the attention of wine lovers across the world. After all, the storied estate established in Marlborough 38 years ago is known for producing exquisite wines that reflect the fresh and fruity characteristics of New Zealand’s terroir. This month, the estate has done it again with the launch of two vintages: Sauvignon Blanc 2023 and Te Koko 2021.
Those who are familiar with the estate’s history know that its journey started with its iconic Sauvignon Blanc, which was first released in 1985. It helped put New Zealand on the wine world stage, changing imbibers’ perception of New World wines in the process. And since that momentous occasion, the winery has been releasing annual vintages that capture nature’s different emotions in a bottle.
In case you missed it: Behind the curation of the Tatler Ball 2023 menu
Cloudy Bay's technical director Jim White
1 / 3
Cloudy Bay’s technical director, Jim White, who oversees both the viticulture and the winemaking, was in town recently for the launch of the new vintages in Singapore, and he tells us that 2023 was a successful year for Cloudy Bay. Aside from the fact that the whole world moved on from the chaos of the pandemic and slowly eased back into normalcy, he enthuses that “Mother Nature was also being nice to us.” Thus, the Sauvignon Blanc 2023, for him, “feels like a celebratory vintage where everyone could walk away with a smile, knowing that it is one of the top five vintages in the recent decade.”
It all started with the harvest. While some winemakers jumped the gun to harvest early, probably nervous from 2022’s erratic weather, those that held steady and harvested the grapes later on were rewarded with peak conditions. “Vintages are more about the waiting than the doing,” explains White. “To make wine at the level that we have to, it’s all about taking risks. Yet there is little to no room for error.”
Don’t miss: Think Drink: How to get the most out of wine sommeliers, even if you don’t know what you want
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2023
1 / 2
On the nose, the 2023 vintage offers inviting aromas of ripe honeydew melon, passionfruit, vibrant citrus, and a delicate hint of fresh blackcurrant leaf. “Our sauvignon always lands on the palate and explodes with ripe fruit, all while maintaining a good amount of acidity,” adds White. “That sort of mouthwatering nature encourages you to go for another sip right after a taste or trigger an appetite. Sort of like a self-fulfilling prophecy.” For balance, the wine’s stoney saline character—a gentle reminder of the sea breeze from the Pacific Ocean, if you may—rounds off beautifully.
Above Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2021
Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2021
1 / 1
As for the highly anticipated Te Koko 2021, it sets out with a completely different philosophy. As White states: “Almost three decades ago, we asked ourselves ‘What if we made sauvignon blanc like we do with chardonnay?’”
First crafted in 1996 and released at the turn of the millennium, this barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc only sources from four meticulously selected blocks in the Wairau Valley for the ripest and most concentrated expressions. It was also named after the legendary Tahitian voyager Kupe, who once dredged the picturesque bay for oysters.
For the 2021 vintage, it is quality over quantity. Despite harvesting significantly lesser yields due to extreme drought conditions and unstable weather, the Sauvignon Blanc shows a lot of promise with ripe fruit that is both intense and balanced. “Coming off 2020's lockdown vintage, 2021 was great and it is best encapsulated in a bottle of Te Koko,” says White.
On the nose, the Te Koko 2021 vintage unfurls with profound notes of tropical fruits and honey, and follows up with voluptuous layers of peach, preserved citrus, and toasted nuts. It drinks silky on the palate while showcasing intense flavours of pineapple. “The delicate savouriness, from resting the wine of fine lees, gives it plenty of complexity,” expresses White.
While the rule of thumb of most white wines is to drink them fresh, the Te Koko does show the potential to be aged. For collectors and oenophiles, know that with a bit of patience to spare, the vintage will start to develop secondary profiles after six years or more.
Above Restaurant Jag's chef-owner Jeremy Gillon
Restaurant Jag's chef-owner Jeremy Gillon
1 / 1
The launch of the new vintages also featured a synergistic culinary pairing with chef Jeremy Gillon of the recently relocated Restaurant Jag. “Both Cloudy Bay and I are all about showcasing the best of terroir,” says Gillon, as he teases an artful series of canapes with bold and contrasting ingredients, using Alsatian smoked eel, parsnips and smoked venison.
Restaurant Jag’s autumn menu, which runs until the end of December, will also present a dish showcasing three textures of Jerusalem artichoke from France paired with blue lobster from Brittany or similar tasting proteins, that go in perfect tandem with notes of toasted nuts from the Te Koko 2021.
The Sauvignon Blanc 2023 is available at Cold Storage while the Te Koko 2021 is available at The Oaks Cellars.
