Cover Which side do you fall on the natural wine divide? (Photo: Wine RVLT)
Which side do you fall on the natural wine divide? (Photo: Wine RVLT)
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A polarising topic, those in the wine community either love or hate it—but maybe you can be somewhere in between
It fascinates me when people take to natural wines with ease. That was not my experience seven years ago when I was first confronted with the juice-like liquid in my glass. It upended all my ideas about wine—that it should be clear, precise and identifiable.
Over the years since, I have tasted natural wines galore and written a fair amount of articles for similarly clueless drinkers like myself. In this one for Tatler Singapore, I explain its second wave in Singapore and reiterated what it is. In a nutshell, there is no legal definition of natural wine, simply that it is farmed organically in the vineyard and made with no or minimal intervention in the cellar; subscribing to the philosophy of “nothing added, nothing removed”.
Master of Wine Isabelle Legeron attributes its “profound appeal” that goes well beyond the wine itself, to it being a philosophy or way of life for both its makers and drinkers. The natural wine market is reportedly minute at less than 1 per cent of global production, though there are no authoritative figures.
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Above Dorminola wine
Above Dorminola Clayface
Dorminola wine
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Get your adult joy juice
Hooch, joose, gluglu, low-fi: all its associated names are jaunty and new. So different from the clinical and precise descriptions in conventional wine. To the trained palate, a conventional wine tastes as prescribed and is therefore understandable—a pinot noir from a warm region exhibits lush, full-bodied fruit appeal, while one from a cooler region weaves floral, tea and herb nuances. Swoon.
I have to admit, a pinot noir made in the natural style just tastes juicy to me, more like a vibrant alcoholic kombucha than a wine. Without the conventional, typical markers, I have not yet found the ‘key’ that unlocks this world of different flavours.
Wine RVLT, Singapore’s pioneering fun wine bar (they don’t like the natural wine bar moniker), recently celebrated its 6th anniversary and renewed their lease at Carpenter Street for another 4 years. It’s a place I love for its phenomenal food, welcoming vibes and the founders’ incredible patience with this perpetually confused natural wine drinker.
I sampled the range of Weingut Schmitt (available from their wine store), made by a young duo in Rheinhessen, Germany. Bianka Schmitt was on hand to lead the tasting, showcasing their rieslings and yes, also pinot noir (known by its German name of spatburgunder). Their Riesling M 2021 is made as orange wine on skins for a resulting “exciting combination of tannins and striking acidity”, while the Spatburgunder 2020 had “high toned herbal whiffs” and a crisp, fine-boned texture.
The descriptions were very apt, and I did indeed discover a range of highly aromatic, dry complex and refreshing uplifting notes across the appealing range. Their FKK Rose 2021 in particular, from Portugiser and Dornfelder grapes, had sunny tomato and strawberry notes, with a serious, medium-bodied length. It was the very definition of quaffable, drunk chilled from stemless wine glasses.
Maybe I’m not too conventional to get it, after all. Here are a few bars and retail stores to go in search of your own spark of joy juice.
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Wine RVLT
The pioneering wine bar by sommelier-founders Alvin Gho and Ian Lim carries a comprehensive range of wines made conscientiously, and with care.
Wine RVLT
Address: 38 Carpenter Street, 01-01, S(059917); +656909 5709
Kumi Den
Opened by Joel Lim, a Singapore National Sommelier champion, this casual wine bar is dedicated to low-intervention wines with a revolving list. For beginners, the Christoph Hoch Kalkspitz is a fresh, zesty pet-nat (natural sparkling wine) with green apple and grapefruit notes from Austria.
Kumi Den
Address: 15 Duxton Road, S(089481); +65 8923 1734
Wine Mouth
The first retail store dedicated to natural wine, this East side institution curates wines that are organic, biodynamic and/or minimal intervention. Check in for frequent events or shop online. A recent find is Margaret River label Dormilona, which translates as lazy bones in Spanish. Look for the Clayface Chardonnay and Cabernet; the quirky skull and bones labels would make a great pick for Halloween.
Wine Mouth
Address: 432 Joo Chiat Road, S(427647); +65 6974 7236
As a journalist for over 20 years, June Lee eats and drinks for a living, even picking up a few wine certifications along the way. She doesn’t have a favourite wine or whisky because she has yet to taste them all. Send June your burning questions, brickbats and (wine) bouquets at www.instagram.com/junedrinkswine/
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