Cover A majestic view of the vineyards and Rhône River, in the canton of Valais, Switzerland (Photo: Swiss Wine)
A majestic view of the vineyards and Rhône River, in the canton of Valais, Switzerland (Photo: Swiss Wine)
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From Ticino to Geneva, a journey through Switzerland’s dramatic Alpine landscapes and intimate cellars reveals the winemakers whose distinctive characters find expression in some of the country’s finest and most elusive wines
“You can always tell a winemaker’s character through their wines,” says Vincent Tan, wine director at modern French restaurant Odette. In many ways, he believes that the same could be said of Switzerland, a small country encircled by Europe’s established viticultural titans, from France and Italy to Germany and Austria, yet blessed with a wine heritage entirely its own. Today, Switzerland counts 252 grape varieties suitable for vinification, with indigenous varieties accounting for around 36 per cent of its vineyard area—a fitting reflection of the quiet diversity woven through its wine culture.
It is this diversity we set out to explore, travelling alongside Tan and Jay Ho, head sommelier of Cloudstreet at the time of the trip in June, to trace the country’s winemaking traditions and uncover bottles capable of holding their own on the world’s finest tables. The journey is a natural continuation of the Swiss Wine Competition, organised by Switzerland Tourism, Swiss Wine and Swiss International Air Lines, with Tan serving on the committee. Pitted against some of Singapore’s leading sommeliers, Ho took top honours in a blind tasting that challenged participants to identify which four of eight wines were from Switzerland.
Before the competition, Ho had never set foot in Europe. Yet through rigorous study, he had already begun to understand how the country’s cool climate, dramatic Alpine topography and abundance of lakes shape its six principal wine regions: Ticino, Valais, Vaud, Geneva, Three Lakes and German-speaking Switzerland.
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Above Ticino has become synonymous with merlot, a grape better known for its starring role in Bordeaux
Ticino has become synonymous with merlot, a grape better known for its starring role in Bordeaux
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Into the wine country
That diversity becomes tangible almost as soon as we leave Zurich, boarding a three-hour train south towards Ticino—Switzerland’s sole wine region south of the Alps. The landscape shifts steadily along the way, from sweeping peaks to lush valleys and mirror-like lakes, while the weather moves just as readily between brilliant sunshine, low clouds and sudden showers.
The same unpredictability follows us into Ticino. Bordering Italy and with a milder, Mediterranean-influenced climate, the canton has become synonymous with merlot, a grape better known for its starring role in Bordeaux. At Vinattieri Ticino, brand ambassador Ramesh Oertli welcomes us to the estate founded by wine trade veteran Luigi Zanini in 1985. An admirer of Bordeaux, Zanini set out to produce ambitious, age-worthy wines that could redefine perceptions of Ticino. Today, the winery sits amid the canton’s undulating landscape, its vineyards spread across steep and varied terrain.
The Roncaia Riserva is a striking expression of Ticino’s affinity with merlot. Ripe cherry, blackberry and blueberry lead the way, followed by savoury notes of dried herbs, clove, pepper, tobacco and vanilla. Beneath the generous fruit is a fine, well-integrated tannic structure that lends the wine both poise and the potential to evolve gracefully with age.
Its white counterpart, Bianco di Merlot, offers an altogether different interpretation. Oertli explains that the style emerged in the 1980s, when Swiss consumers were seeking fresh, locally produced whites. Rather than uproot their merlot vines, winemakers discovered that gently pressing the red grapes with minimal skin contact could yield a white wine. The result is fresh and savoury, with ripe white-fleshed fruit and a subtle hint of spice.
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Above Crushed merlot grapes destined for Vinattieri Ticino’s red wines
Crushed merlot grapes destined for Vinattieri Ticino’s red wines
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From Ticino, we press on to Valais, Switzerland’s largest wine-producing canton and home to some of its most dramatic vistas. Here, dizzying vineyards cling to sun-drenched slopes high above the Rhône Valley, where altitude and stark Alpine terrain offer a striking contrast to Ticino’s warmer character.
At Domaine Jean-René Germanier in Vétroz, third‑generation winemaker Jean-René Germanier leads us through the family’s steep terraced plots. Pointing out old vines, some more than a century in age, Germanier recounts a family history stretching back to the late 19th century and an approach to winemaking that balances the traditions of Valais with a more contemporary expression of place.
One of the region’s defining styles is fendant, the local name for wines made from chasselas grapes. Domaine Jean-René Germanier’s Les Terrasses, Fendant de Vétroz offers a particularly clear reflection of both grape and place. Grown on steep terraces, the wine is shaped by Vétroz’s distinctive landscape, with glacial deposits and fractured slate contributing to its character. Sharing a glass with Germanier, we pick up notes of lime blossom and lemon peel; the palate is generous yet lively, its freshness keeping the wine beautifully poised, whether enjoyed on its own or with food.
Above Jomini Vins’ family estate in Lavaux, Switzerland
Jomini Vins’ family estate in Lavaux, Switzerland
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Towards the lake
From the steep slopes of Valais, we make our way to Lavaux, where Switzerland’s relationship with chasselas assumes a more romantic dimension. While the grape is closely associated with the Lémanic Arc, the region surrounding Lake Geneva, it is here, along the lake’s shores, that its story feels most intimately tied to the landscape. Cascading towards the water, Lavaux’s centuries-old terraces are a remarkable feat of human ingenuity, shaped over generations to make the most of the steep slopes and abundant sunshine.
Among its most celebrated enclaves is Dézaley, a Grand Cru appellation renowned for its chasselas. At family estate Jomini Vins, owner Constant Jomini tends to 5.2 hectares of vines and produces 12 different wines from 14 grape varieties, continuing his father’s practice of blending modern techniques with traditional methods. His Dézaley Grand Cru, for instance, is first matured in tank before resting in bottle, allowing it to develop a quiet richness while retaining the freshness of its lakeside origins. Understated yet expressive, it seems to carry something of Lavaux itself into the glass.
Above A stellar lineup of Novelle Wines
Above Jay Ho (pictured centre) and Vincent Tan (right) with winemaker Jean-Pierre Pellegrin (left)
A stellar lineup of Novelle Wines
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Our journey west brings us finally to Geneva, where two contrasting estates reveal the remarkable range of this small canton. In Satigny, Jean-Michel and Nikita Novelle, the father-and-son team behind their eponymous family winery, craft wines defined by elegance, finesse and aromatic complexity. Across seven hectares, Jean-Michel cultivates 17 grape varieties to produce nearly 40 distinct cuvées, having made the pioneering decision in the 1980s to do away with herbicides entirely.
“Our identity is really about freshness,” Nikita tells us. “Across our reds, sparkling, sweets and whites, we maintain this signature of vitality, dynamic structure and a long aftertaste.” That philosophy comes through vividly in their Iconique Gamay, a cuvée that blends gamay with a touch of pinot noir. “The gamay was partially dried for six days in a cold, windy room to concentrate both the sugars and the natural acidity,” Nikita explains. The result, despite reaching 14.5 per cent alcohol, is richly textured yet remarkably vibrant.
Above The wine cellar at Domaine Grand’Cour
Above Winemaker Jean‑Pierre Pellegrin of Domaine Grand’Cour, located in the canton of Geneva, Switzerland
The wine cellar at Domaine Grand’Cour
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Not far away, in the village of Peissy, Jean‑Pierre Pellegrin tells an equally compelling story. At Domaine Grand’Cour, set within a 600-year-old farmstead, Pellegrin has restored the property with exquisite care, constructing a stone cellar beneath a 33-metre high vault to house oak barrels and concrete amphorae. Today, the 14-hectare estate is home to more than 25 grape varieties, tended with the precision of a master watchmaker. Tasting one of Pellegrin’s finest wines, Grand’Cour Rouge, leaves a lasting impression. A blend of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, it makes clear why the wine is regarded among the country’s most supple reds.
By the time we leave Geneva for Singapore, Tan’s opening words feel less like an observation than a truth revealed across every cellar and vineyard we have visited. From Vinattieri Ticino’s Bordeaux influence and Domaine Jean-René Germanier’s precision in Valais, to Jomini Vins’s quiet fidelity to Lavaux and Domaine Grand’Cour’s watchmaker-like discipline in Geneva, each wine carries the distinct signature of the house that crafted it.
Perhaps that is what makes Swiss wine so compelling. For all the influence exerted by the country’s mountains, lakes, soils and centuries-old vineyards, its finest bottles ultimately express more than place alone. They are portraits of the people who decide how that place should be interpreted—and, ultimately, tasted.
Credits
Images: Domaine Jean-René Germanier, Novelle Wine Le Grand Clos, Swiss Wine, Vin d’Oeuvre, Vinattieri Ticino
Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
