Cover We dive into the philosophy, history and flavour profiles of Cantonese herbal tea (Photo: Michael Gwyther-Jones/ Wikimedia Commons)
We dive into the philosophy, history and flavour profiles of Cantonese herbal tea (Photo: Michael Gwyther-Jones/ Wikimedia Commons)
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We unpack the remedial principles behind herbal tea and consider five of the most commonly available types in Hong Kong
Growing up in a Cantonese family often involves warnings about crisps, chips or chocolate causing ‘hot air,’ and so, are ‘bad for you.’ This concern extends to barbecues or hotpot dinners, where bottles of herbal tea are always within reach, ready to counter the ‘heat’ of the meal to come.
This cultural obsession with ‘heat’ is rooted in principles of traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), which emphasises maintaining internal balance. Foods are categorised by their effect on temperature and humidity: some cause heat and dampness, while others cool and dry. Herbal tea—literally ‘cooling tea’ in Cantonese—is a remedy for restoring this equilibrium.
In Hong Kong and the surrounding Guangdong region, drinking herbal tea is a preventative ritual designed to maintain physiological harmony. For those new to the practice, we break down the philosophy, flavours and essential brews of the city’s original wellness drink.
Read more: Where to find the best herbal and botanical cocktails in Hong Kong
Combating ‘internal fire’
Above Traditional Chinese medicine principles promotes internal balance, and herbal tea is one way to maintain this equilibrium (Photo: XH4D/ Getty Images Signature)
Traditional Chinese medicine principles promotes internal balance, and herbal tea is one way to maintain this equilibrium (Photo: XH4D/ Getty Images Signature)
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Southern China’s preoccupation with ‘internal heat’ is attributed to its climate. TCM dictates that sub-tropical humidity, combined with the stress and a diet rich in roasted, fried or spicy foods can cause an excess of internal ‘fire’ to accumulate in the body. This imbalance typically manifests through subtle signs: dry throats, breakouts, mouth ulcers or a general sense of sluggishness.
Herbal teas act as the reset button, where specific blends of roots, bark, leaves and flowers are crafted into concoctions designed to purge this excess heat, dispel dampness and reestablish the body’s internal equilibrium.
A history of herbal tea in Hong Kong
Above A menu listed with various teas at a traditional herbal tea shop
A menu listed with various teas at a traditional herbal tea shop
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What began as a remedial ritual in the city evolved into something of a communal affair in the 1950s and 1960s. Here, traditional herbal tea shops acted as accessible neighbourhood hubs complete with televisions and jukeboxes that were considered luxuries at the time. Locals would gather and catch up over a detoxifying drink, watch TV and listen to pop songs all for a dollar or two.
In later decades, the popularisation of Western medicine and Hong Kong's rapid economic boom saw many of these establishments struggle to keep pace with changing modern demands, forcing many to close their doors. Despite this, a handful of traditional shops endure. You can still spot them along the streets of Central, Sheung Wan and Kowloon City—simply look for the brass urns that line their storefronts.
You might also like: What are the 6 types of Chinese tea? A simple beginner’s guide
The five essential brews
You don’t need to consult a TCM practitioner to experience these five essential brews. They are readily available, whether freshly poured from traditional tea shops or picked up as convenient, pre-bottled options from convenience stores and local supermarkets.
Above This intense herbal tea is believed to cure a variety of symptoms (Photo: Drew Jemmett/ Unsplash)
This intense herbal tea is believed to cure a variety of symptoms (Photo: Drew Jemmett/ Unsplash)
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Twenty-four flavours
Despite its name, the exact recipe varies from shop to shop, often crafted with anywhere between 20 to 30 medicinal herbs. This ultimate detox concoction is often ordered for recovery after you have pulled consecutive all-nighters, overindulged in a rich hotpot feast or feel the onset of excess heat. Twenty-four flavours clears toxins and purges fire from the liver and lungs, with an intense, unforgettably bitter flavour profile and a lingering, earthy aftertaste.
Above This is one of the mildest herbal teas, with floral notes being one of the main flavour drivers (Photo: istetiana/ Getty Images)
This is one of the mildest herbal teas, with floral notes being one of the main flavour drivers (Photo: istetiana/ Getty Images)
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Five flower tea
True to its name, this is typically brewed from a combination of five dried blossoms: chrysanthemum, honeysuckle, silk cotton flower, plumeria and sophora japonica. Often enjoyed during humid summer months, five flower tea clears damp-heat, soothes the throat and clears the system without shocking the palate.
Above This sweet herbal tea is often consumed to nourish the throat and lungs (Photo: Adam_Lee_MY/ Getty Images)
This sweet herbal tea is often consumed to nourish the throat and lungs (Photo: Adam_Lee_MY/ Getty Images)
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Monk fruit tea
Known for its natural sweetness, monk fruit makes this an ideal entry-level herbal tea. The fruit bears an intense, naturally-occurring sweetness that’s stronger than cane sugar but virtually calorie-free—which is why its extract is often used in producing artificial sweeteners. Typically crafted with monk fruit extract, kudzu root, dandelion and licorice, this tea moisturises the throat, clears excess heat and cools the body during summer.
Above This herbal tea packs a flavourful, appetising punch (Photo: Yin Jiawei/ Canva)
This herbal tea packs a flavourful, appetising punch (Photo: Yin Jiawei/ Canva)
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Sugar cane and imperatae root
A blend of fresh sugar cane, imperatae (or couch grass root) and water chestnuts, this refreshing brew nourishes the lungs, alleviates dryness and cools the body on sweltering afternoons. Sugar cane and imperatae root is famously easy to drink, making it an entry-level herbal tea that you’ll enjoy.
Above Chicken bone grass tea has a herbaceous flavour profile (Photo: Sino Images/ Getty Images)
Chicken bone grass tea has a herbaceous flavour profile (Photo: Sino Images/ Getty Images)
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Chicken bone grass tea
Despite the name, this herbal tea contains no actual chicken bones or grass. Rather, chicken bone grass is a colloquial name for the Guangdong abrus (Abrus cantoniensis), a type of TCM herb prized for its liver-soothing, heat-clearing and dampness relieving properties. Recipes differ by store, but it is often made with candied dates and monk fruit to enhance its soothing qualities.
The botanical revival
Above Clan & Company Community Bar’s five flower tea-inspired cocktail
Clan & Company Community Bar’s five flower tea-inspired cocktail
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While herbal tea shops are becoming a rarity, this traditional remedy is experiencing something of a revival in Hong Kong, one led by the city’s top mixologists. At the forefront of this momentum is Dennis Mak and James Ting of Magnolia Lab, a brand that infuses TCM botanicals into baijiu, or Chinese rice wine, to create a distinctively local liqueur. Since its debut, Mak has opened Clan & Company Community Bar in Yau Ma Tei, a destination specialising in herbal tea-inspired cocktails.
This trend of rooting modern drinks in Hong Kong’s flavour memories is echoed across the city’s bar scene, including Tatler Best Innovation Bar Kinsman and Tatler Best 20 Bar Argo.
Formerly a lifestyle editor, Celia is now an Associate Dining Editor at Tatler Hong Kong, where she covers local dining stories with a strong sense of narrative and cultural context. She focuses on the people, places and moments shaping the city’s food scene, bringing a storytelling-led approach to restaurant features, chef profiles and on-the-ground coverage.
