Kinsman

Co-founder Gavin Yeung leads a mission to revive the indigenous Chinese liqueurs and wines that once defined the region’s drinking culture, from black glutinous rice wine to papaya wine and jiuniang. Most recently, the cocktail menu was inspired by five historic Chinatowns from Singapore to Lima, each drink telling a story of diaspora and adaptation, much like the Cantonese spirits themselves. Cantopop from the 1960s and 80s plays softly—Leslie Cheung, Danny Chan—and the whole room glows with mid-century warmth. It’s drinking as cultural preservation, and it’s never tasted better.

Tatler Tip

The kitchen doesn’t lose, with shrimp toast, salted egg wings, and a lap cheung platter that disappear as fast as the drinks.