Cover Brandon Wong, head of wine at Terroirs by LQV
Brandon Wong, head of wine at Terroirs by LQV
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The head of wine at LQV Group’s new space in Central shares the standout wines of his career to date and his love for the Loire
Our By The Glass series invites sommeliers and experts in the world of wine to share some inspiration for your next pour.
LQV Group has been bringing fine wines to Hong Kong drinkers for almost a decade. The latest addition to their stable of venues—which currently includes wine bars and retail sites for both wine and French fine foods (think La Crémerie and La Boucherie)—is Terroirs by LQV, a wine bar and lounge serving a menu of classic French dishes. On the drinks front, the focus is French wine, with plenty of biodynamic, organic and natural wines and a selection that ranges from reasonably priced bottles of interest—there are more than 200 enticing options priced below $500, to the more exceptional, with the most expensive bottle priced at HK$220,000.
Above Terroirs by LQV
Terroirs by LQV
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Guests will be spoilt for choice. But that’s where Brandon Wong comes in. The venue’s head of wine may not have intended to pursue a career in wine, having studied meta-ethics for six years at Lingnan University in Hong Kong, but while in graduate school a bottle of Foillard Morgon Cote du Py captured the heart of the food and beer lover and since joining LQV Group two years ago, wine has become a true passion. Just as he'll share with guests at Terroirs, Wong opens up about recommendations for various occasions.
An early (in your career) wine that made you go ‘Wow! (I want to be a somm)’
Domaine Guillaume Gilles Cornas 2017. A youngster’s reinterpretation of the old school, whole-clustered Cornas that was being made decades ago. This bottle gives me a glimpse into how great wines can combine layers of deep flavours with an effortless elegance. Plus, I met one of my best wine mates through this bottle. It just shows how wine can bring like-minded people together.
Most memorable pour
Clos Rougeard Le Bourg Saumur Champigny 2013. As a die-hard fan of the Loire Valley, given the chance to have this Platonic Ideal of Cabernet Franc was an epiphany for me. Just smelling it gives me goosebumps. This is all about intensity without extraction.
Tipple for a Tuesday
Iced lemon tea during our break. Does that count?
Sun, sea and …
Jacques Lassaigne Les Vignes de Montgueux Extra Brut. A briny, chalky and minimalist Champagne by the sea? Come on now.
Wine of the moment
Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py 1993. 2017 Foillard Cote du Py was the first bottle that got me interested in wines back in college. I was blessed to be able to drink this ‘93 in perfect condition with good friends. No description needed.
What you wish a customer would order (so you can taste it – for taint, of course)
Stephane Bernaudeau Les Terres Blanches 2012. Guys, this has been sitting in our cellar for a while now.
What you love to recommend to guests
I love to encourage guests to try new things. I will see what they like in general and come up with a slight twist, be that lesser-known producers, regions or appellations.
Best from your by-the-glass list
Rolet Pere & Fils Arbois Rouge Memorial 2002. Jura reds can really age. Try it to believe it.
A special something
Egon-Muller Scharzhof Riesling 2020. Try this with local steamed fish with soy sauce and aged citrus peel. You’re welcome.
Bottle to bring to a dinner party?
No set rules, but I like to try unusual pairings and see what works—when one works, it’s magic.
What’s in your cellar?
Currently, 80% are from the Loire. I’m on a quest to taste every Loire producer that catches my eye. I’ve recently added La Porte Saint Jean (Saumur), Domaine du Bel Air (Bourgueil), and Julien Labet (Jura).
Last glass
As much as I like to try new stuff, a prime red Burgundy with pedigree without a doubt.
If not wine, then what?
Beer. I love crisp West Coast IPAs and vinous Belgian Lambics.
About
Rachel Duffell is regional content director for Power & Purpose, including Front & Female, and former regional content director for Tatler Dining. She is a journalist and editor who has been covering people, gender, impact, leadership, culture and lifestyle for more than 15 years.
