The best burgundy red wine alternatives, according to Singapore’s top sommeliers

Lesley Liu, head sommelier of Odette

“Pinot noir is one of the most elegant red grape varietals, yet it is highly sensitive to its environment. At the coastlines of Victoria, you’ll find some of the country’s finest and most elegant pinot noirs. Head a little inland, and the pinot noir is ripe, bold and immediately satisfying. One of my favourite producers is By Farr. They are based in Geelong, the second biggest city in Victoria, Australia. It is a family-owned winery, and probably one of the most sought-after wineries in the region for the best quality chardonnay and pinot noir.”

Mason Ng, wine director of Park90 Singapore

“This is a tough question, for I have a deep love for Burgundy reds. To me, they are magical, though prices are getting out of hand. If I have to pick, I’d say pinot noir from Jura, particularly Domaine de Saint Pierre’s Arbois “Saint Pierre”; the bottle is clean, with notes of fresh, vibrant red cherries and red currants backed by hints of dark cherries and spices. Jura is usually the sommelier’s choice when choosing pinot noirs in restaurants, as the region is still very cool, so wines here have a lot of freshness, and when handled in the correct hands, are amazing.

Other alternatives include producers such as Maxime Crotet, Domaine Ganevat, Domaine Labet, Domaine des Marnes Blanches, and Francois Rousset Martin.”

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Roberto Duran, head sommelier of 67 Pall Mall Singapore

“Another region I am excited about is Mosel, Germany. Although well-known for riesling, spätburgunder (the German name for pinot noir) is becoming one of the greatest grapes in this area, thanks to climate change. This region is famous for its steep vineyards and cool, temperate climate, both of which significantly influence the characteristics of its wines. For spätburgunder, the Mosel region’s terroir is blessed with slate-rich soils and slow ripening conditions, allowing the grape to develop aromatic complexity while maintaining good acidity. Mosel is one to watch in my books, and the producer, Weingut Daniel Twardowski, is a must-try.”

Kathryn Wong, senior sommelier of Somma

“I’d go with the Markus Molitor Graacher Himmelreich Pinot Noir *** Trocken 2017. In my opinion, it is a refreshing alternative to Burgundy reds, backed by a rich history and a personal conviction that ensures its exceptional quality. Molitor is an eighth-generation winemaker who took over his family’s estate in the Mosel region when he was just 20 years old. He has since expanded to include some of the region’s most prized vineyards.

This pinot noir, grown on the steep slate slopes of Graacher Himmelreich, combines traditional Burgundy clones with Markus’ innovative touch. The velvety tannins and evolving layers of blackberry, peony, and spice make it a worthy rival to the finest Burgundies.”

Daisuke Shibuya, head sommelier of Terra

“For a Burgundy-like style, exceptional producers from California, such as Calera, and Aussie pinots are often cited as examples. But if I had to choose, it would be my birthplace, Hokkaido, Japan. Around 20 years ago, I visited several wineries in Hokkaido. At the time, there weren’t many standout wines, and the same was true for pinot noir. However, in recent years, the quality of Hokkaido wines has improved dramatically. Today, even Burgundy producers like Domaine de Montille are making wine in Hakodate. 

Of course, one of the most famous examples would be Nana-Tsu-Mori by Domaine Takahiko; it’s an incredibly elegant wine, rich in red fruit flavours, yet it carries a delicate, ephemeral quality that reflects the essence of Hokkaido. It is a pinot noir that can rival the best reds from Burgundy. Hokkaido is undoubtedly a region to watch in the years to come.”

Justin Wee, assistant head sommelier of Raffles Hotel

“Argentina has much more to show than Malbecs. From the South in Patagonia, the wide diurnal temperature shifts allow the grapes a longer hang time to produce a more nuanced and expressive pinot noirs. The natural air conditioning from the strong winds keeps disease pressure low and maintains a cool temperature precision. The region is slowly gaining popularity with producers like Bodega Chacra, founded by Piero Incisa of the Sassicaia fame, making delicate pinot noirs with finesse and mouth-watering acidity and a good ageing potential.”

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