Cover The main dining room (Source: Tate Dining Room)

We took a moment to sit down with Vicky Lau, the chef-owner behind it all to talk about her 10-year journey

A lot can happen in a decade, especially within Hong Kong's incredulously competitive restaurant scene. This makes the fact that chef-owner Vicky Lau is celebrating Tate Dining Room's tenth anniversary all the more astonishing.

Tate first opened its doors on Elgin Street in 2012, before moving to its current space on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan and after only six months, received its first Michelin star followed by a string of accolades including Lau's title of Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2015, as voted by World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and its second Michelin star in 2021. The fine dining restaurant also made it onto our list of the most impactful restaurants in 2022, the Tatler Dining 20.

Today, Lau continues to shine as one of Hong Kong's top chefs, striving forward with her unique blend of French and Chinese culinary artistry. To celebrate this milestone, Lau and her team have created Then & Now, a menu dedicated to the evolution of both chef and cuisine, available at Tate Dining Room for lunch and dinner from September 8.

Tatler Asia
Above Ode to Crab, 2015 (Source: Tate Dining Room)
Tatler Asia
Above Ode to Crab, 2022 (Source: Tate Dining Room)

"We decided to review internally and push ourselves to a more refined level. That's how we came up with Then & Now. We take dishes from the past 10 years and develop them into our versions now," explains Lau. "This is how we've evolved over time. I think we've actually evolved into something more simple, more concentrated. We no longer put 10 things on the plate, we put four, but all elements make sense and are powerful as it is."

Tatler Asia
Above Ode to Pigeon, 2018 (Source: Tate Dining Room)
Tatler Asia
Above Ode to Pigeon, 2022 (Source: Tate Dining Room)

Examples of this include the Ode to Crab, a 2015 dish that spotlights local seafood with Hong Kong flower crab complemented by green crab bisque mousse and Oscietra caviar; Ode to Pigeon, a dish from 2018 that utilises the local cooking technique of steaming pigeon and serves it with fermented mustard green, chicken stuffing, sauce salmis, and five-spice powder; and one of Tate's most memorable dessert experiences, Zen Garden from 2014, which was originally served on a plate but is now served in the mignardise chinoiserie trolley. 

Tatler Asia
Above Zen Garden, 2014 (Source: Tate Dining Room)
Tatler Asia
Above Zen Garden, 2022 (Source: Tate Dining Room)

What differentiates these dishes from the past? Lau says "We've been studying sauces a lot the past few years. So I think paying attention to the sauce has really developed our cuisine. Anyone can source great items—the scallop or lobster—but the sauce is what gives a dish character and the sauce in each of our dishes is where the customer will find our character."

Looking back, Lau recalls fond memories that have stayed with her until now. "When we set everything up for the first time [on Elgin Street] and I looked into the restaurant, it was a dream come true moment. I think we've experienced a lot of things over the past 10 years and we're very thankful to all who believed in us and gave us an opportunity to try and learn from our mistakes."

Tatler Asia
Above Chef-owner Vicky Lau (Source: Tate Dining Room)

When asked about how she has changed over the years, Lau ponders for a moment. "When I first started out, I was more focused on plating but over time, I started to focus more on the ingredients. The same goes for Hong Kong and the dining scene is quite different now. It has always been very vibrant but people are more concerned with where ingredients are sourced from."

"That is one of our main goals now," adds Lau "We used to shy away from using local meats and other ingredients, but now we are swapping out a lot for more homegrown produce and we will incorporate more from Hong Kong's fishermen and farmers into our menu."

On what she is currently working on, Lau also talks about being on the board of directors for local charity Feeding Hong Kong. "I first learnt about Feeding Hong Kong after I joined an event with a few chefs to cook meals out of surplus food. I found the experience so interesting and thoughtful. That's why I decided to join the board and see what we can do. I'm learning a lot about their mission to fight hunger in the city and right now, it's more important than ever."

Tatler Asia
Above Tate on Elgin Street (Source: Tate Dining Room)
Tatler Asia
Above Tate on Hollywood Road (Source: Tate Dining Room)

As for what the next decade will bring, Lau hopes to continue her work with Tate Dining Room, as well as her soy-inspired restaurant Mora and soy product collection Ān. "It has been so much fun exploring the tofu world, and we hope to create more products, more texture and more flavour through tofu while incorporating this vegetarian protein into dishes. I think we've successfully opened up some minds on tofu, especially the pastry side as we've been able to manipulate the soy into the texture we want. So, we'll keep exploring that."

"I am so proud of achieving what we have done so far because Hong Kong is so fast-paced. But in the cooking world, there is always so much to learn and we will evolve again."

The anniversary menu is available from September 8 until December at Tate Dining Room. For reservations, please contact +852 2555 2172 or info@tate.com.hk


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