Procacci

Proccaci is not just another Italian restaurant in Singapore - it is the only overseas outpost of the historic Florentine deli that opened in 1885, brought to Singapore by a local group of wine-loving friends.

At close to two years old, the fine dining establishment at Customs House has welcomed its new Italian chef, Giancarlo Francioso, who's added his own touch with a few new menu items. Chef Francioso has been based in Japan for over 22 years, bringing his understanding of Asian palates to Singapore. At our recent tasting, we were delighted with the huge portion of cuore di burrata, Puglia's most famous burrata cheese - and is suitable as a starter for three or four persons. Instead of the usual minimalist serving style at most restaurants here, Proccaci's platter offered up parma ham, grilled vegetables, juicy pachino tomatoes bursting with flavour, and rosemary crackers alongside the firm air-flown cheese. Another popular choice is the Wagyu carpaccio accompanied by Proccaci's in-house preserved black truffle - this is for those who really enjoy the texture and taste of Wagyu in all its meatiness. 

The pastas are reliable choices, and the introduction of tortelli Proccaci is predictably a winner. Mild tasting squid ink tortelli is stuffed with prawn mousse in a gorgeous tomato sauce - the touch of seafood is nicely balanced by the luxurious essence of umami-rich tomato. For mains, the new pollo diavola, or grilled spatchcock "devil" style is not as fierce as it sounds - a spice-rubbed whole chicken is grilled for a smoky char that complements the tender chicken meat. It takes a while to work through the whole dish, bones and all, but the effort is worth it. The crowd-pleaser of Black Angus tenderloin is satisfying as expected, with black truffle sauce and seasonal vegetables. Keep an eye on the doneness of the steak, as they may not get it right the first time.

The real discoveries are to be made at dessert, where a delicate lemoncello pudding, served in a martini glass, and outstanding semi-freddo are the must-tries. The semi-freddo is a play on texture and flavour, the parfait well chilled and studded with pistachios and chocolate chips, floating in a bed of melted chocolate and strawberries. These new introductions easily eclipse the typical standby of tiramisu. 

Proccaci is located at 70 Collyer Quay, #01-04 Customs House, 6532 9939.