The talented former chef of The Ledbury and Pensons explores the possibilities of local seafood for this limited time pop-up

In the third instalment of Remixed Origins, a Tatler Dining Kitchen series where young chefs look to their roots as inspiration for a contemporary tasting menu, Taiwanese-born chef Felix Cheung traces his love for seafood back to his mother-in-law’s seafood trade in Hong Kong’s Lau Fau Shan.

Cheung will explore the possibilities of a menu entirely dedicated to locally sourced seafood, upon which he applies the techniques gleaned from working in the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants around the world, from The Ledbury to Pensons. The result is an intriguing genre-blurring dishes such as freshwater white eel smoked over applewood and grilled; hairy crab cavatelli; and geoduck with Jerusalem artichoke and grains.

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Photo 1 of 3 Hairy crab cavatelli (Photo: Slow Motion Studio)
Photo 2 of 3 Scallop with champagne and hazelnut (Photo: Slow Motion Studio)
Photo 3 of 3 Freshwater smoked white eel with fruits and roots (Photo: Slow Motion Studio)

The young chef has gained a cult following over the years, with sell-out pop-up dinners held at Test Kitchen and Good Good Grocery—at the former, he showcased his hand-rolled pasta, while at the latter he crafted a sophisticated vegetarian tasting menu in the tiny Sai Ying Pun cafe. For his debut at Tatler Dining Kitchen, Cheung set to work re-examining his perceptions of local seafood, drawing inspiration from his family’s trade and setting himself the goal of sourcing all of the produce for his menu from Lau Fau Shan. It’s a concept that even he found challenging, given Hong Kong’s easy access to high quality seafood from Japan and Europe—but the more he explored, the more possibilities unravelled.

Tatler Asia
Above Chef Felix Cheung (Photo: Slow Motion Studio)

In the weeks leading up to the pop-up, Hong Kong was hit by two typhoons in a row, throwing a spanner into the works in his development process. But Cheung’s final menu, to be served at Tatler Dining Kitchen for three nights only, is a testament to the resilience of local fishermen. He is also introducing more unusual seafood, such as soft-shell turtle, to upend expectations and transform them in his own way. “I want to show all of you a new way to respect and appreciate the food which has been in our culture for ages, in a tasty and elegant way,” he writes.

Don’t miss your chance to try the cooking of this rising star chef, as well as special desserts by Cheung's business partner Evon of Grandma's Scone. Accomplished sommelier Wallace Lo of Somm's Philosophy has also designed a wine pairing to go with Cheung's seafood dishes.

Tatler Asia
Above Geoduck with Jerusalem artichoke and grains (Photo: Slow Motion Studio)
Tatler Asia
Above Sweetcorn, honey and parmesan (Photo: Slow Motion Studio)

A Tribute To Lau Fau Shan

By FatCheFelix

CANAPES ASSORTMENT OF BIVALVES

ABALONE . CLAMS . OYSTER

FRESH WATER WHITE EEL

FRUITS . ROOTS

SCALLOP

CHAMPAGNE . HAZELNUT

GEODUCK

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE . GRAINS

SOURDOUGH BRIOCHE

FISH ROE BUTTER

SOFTSHELL TURTLE

FENNEL . VANILLA

HAIRY CRAB

SHISO . CAVATELLI

GIANT GROUPER

FISH & CHIPS

OCEAN SCAT

MANDARIN PEELS . BLACK GARLIC

PRE-DESSERT

SWEETCORN

HONEY . PARMESAN

 

BOOK NOW

HK$1,980 per person 

Additional HK$400 for short wine pairing (3 glasses), HK$650 for full wine pairing (5 glasses)

FatCheFelix at Tatler Dining Kitchen, 1/F, Haus, 38-40 Queen's Road Central, Central, Hong Kong


A Tribute to Lau Fau Shan is the latest dining collaboration presented by Tatler Dining Kitchen at Haus, a venue that is the first of its kind by Mercedes Benz, IWC Schaffhausen and Tatler Dining Hong Kong. It follows pop-ups by Ray Choi of Cobo House (October 28-30, 2021), Devon Hou of Cobo House (October 22-23, 2021), Stephanie Wong of Roots (September 24-26, 2021), The Bombay East Indian Girl (September 8-18, 2021), Uza By Nikushou (August 10-28, 2021), Mandarin Oriental and Krug Kitchen (13-31 July, 2021), The Arcane Collective (13 June to 10 July, 2021) and Antimo Maria Merone (9 March to 8 May). Follow us on @tatlerdininghk and @tatlerdiningkitchen to hear more about upcoming pop-ups and chef residencies. 

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