Roots Eatery’s Stephanie Wong Presents Chiuchow Nostalgia For "Remixed Origins", A New Tatler Dining Kitchen Series

“Where is your heung ha?” (where is your ancestral village?) is a question that crops up on occasion among those of Chinese descent, pulled into conversations about family origins. In such exchanges, you might discover a common connection with your companion—perhaps both your great grandparents hailed from Taishan in southwestern Guangdong, and that’s why you both have memories of relishing glutinous rice balls floating in fragrant broth as children, or that a close friend of yours has Hakka roots. Tracing family lines can result in intriguing culinary discoveries, too, and for Tatler Dining Kitchen’s upcoming series of dinners, we have asked young chefs around Hong Kong to dig into and pay homage to their origins.

Kicking off the series on 24 September is Stephanie Wong of Roots Eatery, whose family hails from Puning in Guangdong province. At her French-Chinese bistro in the Star Street Precinct, Wong already presents a fascinating mash-up of Cantonese flavours and classical French technique, and this will be the first time she will draw upon nostalgic flavours and ingredients to create a reimagined Chiuchow feast that is equal parts old-school and future facing. Leaning into her French culinary training, Wong creates a menu that spins the familiar into the unexpected, with iconic Chiuchow ingredients such as Puning’s famed bean sauce, mustard greens, fish and Sacha sauce playing key roles.