Cover MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Onyx

MB&F constantly pushes the envelope in luxury watchmaking with creations that are not only technologically innovative but also bold statements of individuality and creativity. More than just tools to tell time, two of its latest timepieces are testament to the independent brand’s unique artistry

Not everyone may take to an MB&F watch, but these unconventional horological creations are not made for just anyone. When Maximilian Büsser started the Swiss luxury watch brand back in 2005, most people could not truly comprehend or appreciate his vision for MB&F—one that was undeniably avant garde and ahead of its time. His idea was to create radical and futuristic timepieces that still respected traditional watchmaking but would never be bound by its constraints. This resulted in whimsical kinetic sculptures to be worn on the wrist—they puzzled many, but captivated a discerning group of aficionados with an appreciation for the daring and different.

Nearly two decades on, the brand and its distinctive wearable works of art have skyrocketed in popularity and demand. Büsser has made an indelible mark in the world of haute horlogerie, demonstrating to the wider public that watches can be so much more than just a mechanism for telling the time; they can be miniature marvels and great expressions of individuality and creativity.

Read more: MB&F and Bulgari Collaborate on Space-Age US$185K Watch

While MB&F watches are not gendered—or any watch for that matter—most of the brand’s earlier designs were more skewed to the masculine, especially with their larger case sizes. But in 2019, in line with the brand’s perpetual pursuit of evolution and boundary-pushing design, MB&F unveiled its first collection inspired by women, the Legacy Machine Flying T. 

“I created MB&F to do what I believe in, making three-dimensional sculptural kinetic art pieces that give the time. I was creating for myself, which is the only way we could have made all these crazy and audacious pieces over the years,” said Büsser. “But at some point there came a desire to create something for the women in my family. I’ve been surrounded by their influence all my life, so I gave myself the challenge to do something for them.”

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Above MB&F Legacy Machine Flying T Onyx

The mesmerising appeal of the Legacy Machine Flying T lies in its elegant curved sapphire crystal dome that shields, but doesn’t hide, a breathtaking central flying tourbillon that sits at the top of the vertically stacked automatic winding in-house movement. A diamond is affixed on the tourbillon cage, adding an extra touch of sparkle and preciousness as it rotates with the flying tourbillion. The architecture of the sapphire crystal is such that the dome seems to disappear altogether when worn on the wrist, allowing an unobstructed view of the stunning Flying T calibre. 

Thanks to its more compact 38.5mm case size and sleek design, the Legacy Machine Flying T makes for a sophisticated, dressier companion that has appealed to both men and women since its launch. The collection recently welcomed its latest addition, the Legacy Machine Flying T Onyx, which features a deep black onyx dial housed in a contrasting yellow gold case. Its transparent case back reveals a three-dimensional sculpted red-gold sun-shaped rotor that helps provide the watch with four days of power reserve. 

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Above MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue

Another recent release from MB&F that aptly encapsulates its watchmaking philosophy is the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue in a new icy blue dial. Büsser has always been a proponent of wearing one’s watches and not just collecting them—even if they are intricate, revered complications like the perpetual calendar. As such, when the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue was first launched in 2020, it was designed to be tougher than your typical perpetual calendar watch, which can malfunction with a wrong or accidental adjustment of the date.

In order to keep up with the active lifestyle of its wearer, the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue uses a “mechanical processor” consisting of a series of superimposed disks, which takes the default number of days in the month at 28—because all months have at least 28 days—before adding the extra days as required by each individual month. This ensures that each month has the correct number of days, and removes the possibility of the date jumping incorrectly. An inbuilt safety feature disconnects the quickset pushers during the date changeover, so that even if the pushers are accidentally activated whilst the date is changing, there is no risk of damage to the movement.

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Above MB&F Lab at Raffles Singapore

In addition, the 44mm titanium case of this new edition is lightweight and ergonomic, and features a no-bezel construction where the domed sapphire crystal is fused directly to the case. For ease of adjustment, the pushers for the perpetual calendar have been enlarged into double-sprung oblong actuators, while a new FlexRing—an annular dampener fitted between case and movement—provides shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes, improving the robustness of the perpetual calendar. 

To complement the icy blue dial of the contemporary and sporty timepiece, the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Blue comes with a white integrated rubber strap that wraps closely and comfortably around the wrist. This not only gives the exceptional timepiece a fresh and modern look but makes it even more practical and wearable, just as Büsser intended. 

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Above The hybrid retail and gallery space showcases the brand’s horological creations, collaborative pieces, and curated kinetic and mechanical art pieces by artists from around the world

Over the years, the Swiss founder’s passion for creativity has also expanded beyond watchmaking. In 2022, MB&F opened the world’s first MB&F Lab in Raffles Singapore, as a hybrid retail and gallery space showcasing the brand’s horological creations, collaborative pieces, as well as curated kinetic and mechanical art pieces by artists from around the world. This is a space that would appeal to all; the young and old, watch lovers or not. It is a fantastic way to get a glimpse into the inventive mind of Büsser and experience the childlike wonder of immersing in the whimsical world of MB&F. 

Visit the MB&F Lab at 328 North Bridge Road, #01-19 Raffles Hotel Arcade.

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Images: MB&F

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