Cover Ed Sheeran wearing an IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) during his concert at the Marvel Stadium in Melbourne, Australia
Ed Sheeran wearing an IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) during his concert at the Marvel Stadium in Melbourne, Australia
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Spotted on singer Ed Sheeran the day it launched, IWC Schaffhausen’s latest Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium brings a quietly radical edge to one of watchmaking’s most recognisable designs
There is something telling about a watch that makes its public debut not just in a press release, but on the wrist of one of the world’s most recognisable collectors. On February 26, at Melbourne’s Marvel Stadium, English singer-songwriter and musician Ed Sheeran took to the stage wearing the newly released Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium. For eagle-eyed watch fans, it was an immediate signal that this was not merely another iteration, but a piece with cultural traction from the outset.
Unveiled the same day by IWC Schaffhausen, the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) represents a considered evolution of a design that has remained largely unchanged since its introduction in 1998. The Portugieser Chronograph has long been defined by its clarity—two vertically aligned subdials, a slim bezel, and an inner flange marked with a quarter-second scale. It is a work of balance and restraint that has historically leaned towards classical elegance.
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Above Sheeran wearing an IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium
Sheeran wearing an IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium
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In this latest version, the headline is, of course, its material. Developed in-house by IWC, Ceratanium is a titanium-based alloy subjected to high-temperature firing, resulting in a surface that combines the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness approaching that of ceramic. The finish is distinctive: matte, dark, and subtly metallic, avoiding the flatness that can sometimes afflict all-black watches.
Here, the material is applied comprehensively. The 41mm case, crown and pushers are all rendered in Ceratanium, establishing a monochromatic foundation that extends across the watch. The dial follows suit, executed in black with black appliqués and hands. Even the Arabic numerals and indices are restrained, emerging as slight elevations rather than contrasting elements.
Above The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is limited to 1,500 pieces
The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is limited to 1,500 pieces
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Importantly, this “dark mode” approach does not compromise legibility. The Portugieser’s inherent design discipline ensures that the chronograph remains easy to read, with its vertical subdial layout and clean spacing still doing the heavy lifting. The black-on-black execution simply refines the visual hierarchy, encouraging the eye to focus on shape and proportion.
A black rubber strap with a square pattern completes the composition. It reinforces the contemporary character of the watch, while keeping it grounded in practicality. This is, after all, a chronograph designed to be worn regularly rather than admired at a distance.
Beneath the surface, the watch is powered by IWC’s in-house calibre 69355. This is a movement engineered with a focus on durability and precision, featuring a column-wheel chronograph mechanism that delivers crisp, tactile feedback through the pushers. The automatic winding system builds a 46-hour power reserve, underscoring the brand’s emphasis on reliability over unnecessary complication. Visible through a sapphire case back, the movement adds a layer of mechanical credibility to what might otherwise be seen as a purely aesthetic departure.
Above The watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured calibre 69355
The watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured calibre 69355
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What makes this release particularly compelling is how it navigates the tension between innovation and continuity. The Portugieser line has always been one of IWC’s most recognisable pillars—arguably not the place for radical experimentation. Yet by introducing Ceratanium into this context, the brand has found a way to refresh the design language without undermining its identity.
It is also worth noting the limited nature of the piece. With just 1,500 examples produced, the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium occupies a space that will appeal to collectors who value both rarity and relevance. The fact that it debuted on the wrist of a high-profile enthusiast only sharpens that appeal.
In a market where novelty often comes at the expense of coherence, this watch feels measured. It does not attempt to reinvent the Portugieser; instead, it reframes it. The result is a chronograph that retains its lineage while speaking to a more contemporary sensibility—one that favours subtlety, material innovation and a certain quiet confidence.
Credits
Images: Mark Surridge (Sheeran)
Images: IWC Schaffhausen
Topics
Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
