Cover Patek Philippe Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P‑001 (Photo: Patek Philippe)
Patek Philippe Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P‑001 (Photo: Patek Philippe)
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Patek Philippe puts a new spin on one of its most outstanding complicated watches with the Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P‑001
Grand complications are undoubtedly some of the most esteemed and majestic feats of high watchmaking. In the history of luxury watch manufactures, few are as renowned as Patek Philippe when it comes to crafting complicated timepieces.
Since its founding in 1839, the Swiss manufacture has built a reputation for producing the finest, most complex mechanical watches with innovative in‑house technical developments and refined components. In addition to constantly making waves in the watchmaking industry throughout its rich, over‑180‑year history—think the creation of the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925—Patek Philippe is known for consistently creating some of the best complicated watches in the world, many of which sit within its current Grand Complications collection (it is said that the first Patek Philippe Grand Complication wristwatch was ordered in as early as the 1900s).
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Above Patek Philippe Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P‑001 (Photo: Patek Philippe)
Patek Philippe Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P‑001 (Photo: Patek Philippe)
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Among them: the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 5175 with its unique hand‑engraved case, the star among the commemorative watches presented on the occasion of the manufacture’s 175th anniversary in 2014, and the Reference 6300, the first grande sonnerie wristwatch added to the company’s current collection in 2016 that stands out for its unique acoustic functions with five chiming modes.
In 2017, Patek Philippe launched another exceptional masterpiece, the Grand Complication Reference 5316, combining five of the most sought‑after complications: a minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display and a moon phase indicator. Today, this iconic watch has been given a fresh, contemporary look with the Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P‑001.
Above The watch combines five complications: a minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display and a moon phase indicator (Photo: Patek Philippe)
The watch combines five complications: a minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display and a moon phase indicator (Photo: Patek Philippe)
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Launched at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Switzerland, earlier this year, the new Reference 5316/50P‑001 comprises the same five complications as the original, but has swapped out the black grand feu enamel dial of its predecessor for a blue metallised sapphire crystal dial with a black‑gradient rim. Housed in a sleek 40.2 mm platinum case, this updated smoky dial design offers a subtly transparent view of the inner workings of the sophisticated movement, the manually wound calibre R TO 27 PS QR.
The gold‑applied “obus” hour markers on the dial are faceted on four sides, which allows for a radiant play of light. These are complemented by white gold faceted dauphine hands, which also make for the quick and easy reading of time.
Above The tourbillon of the new Patek Philippe Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P‑001 watch is only visible through its sapphire crystal caseback (Photo: Patek Philippe)
The tourbillon of the new Patek Philippe Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P‑001 watch is only visible through its sapphire crystal caseback (Photo: Patek Philippe)
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There are several one‑piece applied white gold aperture frames on the dial for the day, the leap year, the retrograde date, and moon phases. An onyx inlay bears the retrograde date display, while the small seconds display is transfer‑printed in white on a subdial at 6 o’clock. This subdial also indicates that there is a tourbillon complication in this watch, visible only through the sapphire crystal caseback, which is interchangeable with one in solid platinum.
Another contemporary update to this Grand Complication timepiece is its navy blue calfskin strap embossed with a fabric pattern, and with contrasting cream stitching and a platinum fold‑over clasp, which replaces the previous alligator leather strap.
As with all Patek Philippe platinum timepieces, the new Reference 5316/50P‑001 has a brilliant‑cut diamond set on the case band, between the lugs at 6 o’clock.
Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
