Cover The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G‑001 comes in white gold and features a blue‑grey sunburst dial
The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G‑001 comes in white gold and features a blue‑grey sunburst dial
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Patek Philippe’s Cubitus turns one—and turns the page on gendered watchmaking. The references in 40mm prove that progressive watchmaking is not about creating separate categories for different collectors, but about designing wearable timepieces that respect intelligence and sophistication across all demographics
When Patek Philippe introduced the Cubitus just a year ago—its first new collection in 25 years—it marked more than the birth of a fresh line. It was an audacious rethinking of sporty elegance within the Swiss manufacture’s portfolio. With a square case softened by rounded edges, the Cubitus, architectural in stance yet fluid on the wrist, signalled the watchmaker’s intent to evolve beyond its Nautilus and Aquanaut pillars while still honouring its DNA.
Now, with the arrival of two medium‑sized Cubitus references in 40mm—Ref. 7128/1R‑001 in rose gold and Ref. 7128/1G‑001 in white gold—the story takes an even more compelling turn. This evolution dovetails neatly with a broader industry reality: the growing presence of women in serious watch collecting.
In case you missed it: Does size matter? Patek Philippe Cubitus 45mm vs 40mm
Above The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G‑001 comes in white gold and features a blue‑grey sunburst dial
The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G‑001 comes in white gold and features a blue‑grey sunburst dial
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The Cubitus’s trajectory has been nothing short of meteoric. From the outset, it was conceived as a fully realised family of watches rather than a tentative experiment. Its launch with three 45mm models established a bold new identity within Patek Philippe’s universe. The addition of a 40mm format, unveiled just six months later at Watches and Wonders Geneva this April, reinforces that the Cubitus is not an outlier but a carefully planned expansion of the manufacture’s design language.
This recalibrated case size has done more than add versatility; it has opened the door to inclusivity. Crucially, Patek Philippe has avoided the outdated ladies’ watch formula. Instead, it acknowledges what today’s discerning female collectors truly seek: legitimacy.
This translates to crafting watches with mechanical substance, historical weight and aesthetic strength, not just with pastel dials or obligatory diamonds.
Above Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1R‑001 in rose gold with a brown sunburst dial
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1R‑001 in rose gold with a brown sunburst dial
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For decades, women’s watches have been defined through jewellery tropes: gem‑setting, dainty proportions and designs that are more ornamental than horological. That paradigm is shifting. Female collectors today are well‑informed and independent buyers who are deeply knowledgeable about movements, finishing and provenance. They have no interest in being patronised with token feminine editions.
The 40mm Cubitus lands squarely in this new landscape. Assertive yet approachable, technical yet elegant, it feels less like a downsized men’s watch and more like a universal expression of Patek Philippe’s philosophy. With its sculpted geometry, softened edges and ergonomic bracelet, it transitions effortlessly from boardroom formality to cultural pursuits—a design language that resonates across genders.
While the Cubitus carries faint echoes of the Nautilus and the Aquanaut, it stands on its own. The distinctive rounded square case, horizontally embossed dial, and polished‑satin contrasts across case and bracelet give it a modern and restrained aesthetic.
Above The new 40mm Cubitus watches are driven by the self‑winding calibre 26‑330 S C
The new 40mm Cubitus watches are driven by the self‑winding calibre 26‑330 S C
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The two new 40mm references sharpen this character. The 7128/1G‑001 combines white gold with a blue‑grey sunburst dial, while the 7128/1R‑001 brings warmth with a rose gold body and a brown sunburst dial. Both are powered by the calibre 26‑330 S C, a self‑winding movement with sweep seconds and a date indication. Renowned for its efficient winding system and stop‑seconds precision, the calibre is finished to Patek Philippe Seal standards, its bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève, edges chamfered and 21k gold rotor visible through the watch’s clear sapphire caseback.
What sets these medium‑sized Cubitus watches apart is what they are not: diluted ladies’ versions. They are full‑fledged Patek Philippe timepieces that carry the same mechanical gravitas and design discipline as the watchmaker’s most serious offerings. That decision speaks to Patek Philippe’s confidence that form and proportion matter as much as ingenuity, and that true progress lies in inclusivity.
Above The 40mm case size caters better to women’s wrists
The 40mm case size caters better to women’s wrists
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Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of the 40mm Cubitus is how it expands the collection’s reach. While the inaugural 45mm versions were eagerly snapped up by Patek Philippe’s top‑tier clients, the 40mm references invite a second wave: younger enthusiasts, female collectors, and those seeking a contemporary everyday companion that balances presence and wearability.
As the horology world adjusts to an increasingly female‑centric future, the real question is not how to attract more female buyers, but how to value and respect them as collectors. The answer, it seems, involves fewer clichés and more watches like the 40mm Cubitus—authentic timepieces in wearable sizes, presented without gendered labels.
Credits
Images: Patek Philippe
