Cover The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch in black and white
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch in black and white
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The Omega Speedmaster is the most famous watch to ‘walk’ on the Moon
The most famous watch to ‘walk’ on the Moon was not originally made for spaceflight. Instead, the Omega Speedmaster was built to withstand the extreme demands of motor racing. So well made was it that, just a few years after its debut, it was certified fit—without modification—for space missions.
The Speedmaster earned the name Moonwatch after the historic Apollo 11 mission in 1969, during which astronaut Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface with the ST 105.012 strapped to his wrist—the same watch that regular folks wore back on Earth.
For decades, this extraordinary achievement has served as a constant source of inspiration for Omega to pursue innovation in mechanics, materials and design. Yet despite the many updates and spin-offs that followed, the quintessential Speedmaster still closely resembles the models that accompanied astronauts into space in the 1960s. Such is the enduring power of truly great design.
Read more: Omega unveils first two-hand Master Chronometer watch—why this matters
Above The Omega Speedmaster has been the go-to watch for NASA astronauts since 1965
The Omega Speedmaster has been the go-to watch for NASA astronauts since 1965
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ONCE UPON A TIME…
The Speedmaster was born in 1957 as a robust, resilient and precise chronograph for motorsport that was also remarkably user-friendly. Featuring three chronograph counters and a central seconds hand, it was particularly notable for being the first wristwatch to place the tachymeter scale on the bezel. Previously, this scale was positioned around the dial’s periphery.
In 1964, following the success of Project Mercury, NASA requested “high-quality” chronographs from several watch manufactures around the world. Only four responded, with Omega among them. The brand submitted three examples of its third-generation Speedmaster ST 105.003.
The watches were then subjected to 11 tests so severe that many have since described them as “torture tests”. These included exposure to extreme temperatures, vacuum conditions, humidity, shock, G-forces and intense noise, with each test lasting from several hours to several days.
The Speedmasters survived them all with flying colours—and the astronauts themselves gave their seal of approval.
See also: The best Omega Olympic timepieces
Above The Omega Speedmaster certified fit for spaceflight
The Omega Speedmaster certified fit for spaceflight
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Engineer James Ragan, who supervised the tests, said: “Even I was surprised that I could get any watches through these tests. The environments were really made for pieces of hardware that you mount on vehicles. It was the most extreme testing you could do to a piece of hardware.”
Yet perhaps it shouldn’t have come as a surprise. Just two years earlier, astronaut Wally Schirra had worn his personal Speedmaster CK2998 aboard Sigma 7 during the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission.
As for the Speedmaster ST 105.003, it made its official space debut on the Gemini 3 mission. The only modification was a longer Velcro strap that allowed it to fit over a spacesuit.
Above Buzz Aldrin with an Omega Speedmaster during the Apollo 11 mission
Buzz Aldrin with an Omega Speedmaster during the Apollo 11 mission
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Since then, the Speedmaster has become an essential instrument for astronauts on numerous space missions. Apollo 11 in 1969 may be the most celebrated Speedmaster story, but there was another mission in which the watch became the literal hero.
In 1970, Apollo 13 attempted another lunar landing but suffered an onboard explosion en route, disabling much of the spacecraft’s electronic equipment. The crew relied on their Speedmasters to precisely time critical engine burns that helped place the spacecraft on the correct trajectory for a safe return to Earth.
This accomplishment led NASA to confer the Silver Snoopy Award on Omega in 1970, recognising its significant contribution to the success of the mission. Today, Speedmaster models featuring the spacesuit-clad beagle remain among the most beloved watches in the collection.
Above Omega Speedmaster Anniversary Series “Silver Snoopy Award”
Omega Speedmaster Anniversary Series “Silver Snoopy Award”
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STYLISH AT ANY AGE
The original Speedmaster featured a symmetrical case. The modern Moonwatch, however, is based on the fourth-generation model worn during Apollo 11. It introduced an asymmetrical case that offered greater protection for the crown and pushers, along with the twisted lugs that have since become synonymous with the Speedmaster.
Although modernisation has brought subtle tweaks over the years—such as replacing aluminium bezels with more durable ceramic versions and upgrading to Master Chronometer-certified Co-Axial movements—the Speedmaster has largely retained its original character, from the case shape to the stepped dial and baton hands.
In 2010, Omega introduced a meteorite dial Speedmaster to commemorate the historic Apollo-Soyuz Test Project of 1975, when astronaut Thomas P. Stafford of the United States and cosmonaut Alexei A. Leonov of the Soviet Union famously shook hands in orbit.
In 2013, an entirely new generation discovered the Speedmaster through the debut of the Dark Side of the Moon, crafted entirely from black ceramic. Inspired by Apollo 8, which orbited the Moon, the watch took its name from the lunar far side and echoed pilot Jim Lovell’s famous words: “See you on the other side.”
In 2017, the Speedmaster courted a new audience with the launch of the 38mm Speedmaster, featuring a diamond-set bezel that infused the sporty design with a touch of glamour and elegance.
Above The Omega Speedmaster X-33
The Omega Speedmaster X-33
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Perhaps the most dramatic departure from the traditional formula was the Speedmaster X-33, introduced in 1998 and designed with future missions to Mars in mind, earning it the nickname “Mars Watch”.
Developed with input from astronauts and pilots, the X-33 features a digital display and a suite of functions tailored for spaceflight. While it has yet to reach the Red Planet, it has already travelled to the Russian space station Mir and the International Space Station. Most recently, a titanium version accompanied the Artemis II crew as part of preparations for humanity’s return to the Moon.
Above The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch in 18K Moonshine Gold
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch in 18K Moonshine Gold
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UP TO SPEED
Earlier this year, Omega unveiled the latest additions to the Speedmaster family: two Moonwatch models featuring striking black-and-white two-tone dials. The stepped dial combines a polished black upper plate, varnished and lacquered for a distinctive sheen, with white lacquered subdial plates beneath. The minute track is transferred in white on the main dial, while the subdial scales are rendered in black. Completing the look are black ceramic bezel rings featuring a tachymeter scale in white enamel.
A striking marriage of form and function, the monochromatic contrast improves legibility while enhancing the watches’ sporty aesthetic.
Available in stainless steel and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching bracelets, they are powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, the latest generation of Omega’s Moonwatch movement, whose roots can be traced back to the Calibre 321 that accompanied astronauts into space.
More than half a century later, the Speedmaster continues to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike, regardless of its many permutations. While its lunar provenance remains its strongest gravitational pull, the true source of its enduring appeal lies in a simpler truth: it is a great-looking watch backed by uncompromising mechanics.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
