October 2021: What's New In Watches
- Beneath The NightBeneath The Night
- Sixties StyleSixties Style
- Start Your EnginesStart Your Engines
- One to Watch: Jimmy ButlerOne to Watch: Jimmy Butler
- Mind the GapMind the Gap
- Holy Smokes!Holy Smokes!
- Fever PitchFever Pitch
- Medieval WorldMedieval World
- Ring of RosesRing of Roses
- Top ScoreTop Score
New-season pieces and the latest luxury women’s watches
Beneath The Night
Known in horological circles for its breathtaking Les Cabinotiers timepieces, which are crafted by guilloché experts, enamellers, engravers and jewellery setters, Vacheron Constantin’s mechanical movements have long been combined with extraordinary dials. This single-piece edition boasts a delicate guilloché dial and a diamond-set bezel. Powered by the self-winding Calibre 2460 RQP, this piece is unusual because of its regulator-type display, identifiable by its unique layout: one large hand indicates the minutes, while the hours and seconds are measured on smaller sub-dials of their own.
Piaget made its first foray into jewellery watches in the 1960s, a fabulous era for the maison, which saw its pieces worn by countless style icons, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, Andy Warhol and Salvador Dalí. Crafted from white gold, this new Limelight Gala comes with an exquisite dial made using black opal from Australia.
Start Your Engines
As part of the watchmaker’s ongoing partnership with McLaren, Richard Mille’s latest release honours the British car manufacturer’s fastest hypercar ever: the Speedtail. This ticker has taken over 8,600 hours of movement enhancement and 18 months of case design development, says Richard Mille, as well as numerous banged-and-bashed prototypes. A seamless blend of Grade 5 titanium, platinum, red gold and Carbon TPT come together to house 672 components. Dig deep and secure your RM 40-01 for a bank-busting US$992,500.
One to Watch: Jimmy Butler
Basketball superstar Jimmy Butler is Tag Heuer’s latest brand ambassador. A five-time NBA All-star, the 31-year-old is one of the top players in the league, and earned nearly US$30 million after signing a four-year deal with the Miami Heat in 2019. A gold medal winner for the US Olympic Men’s Basketball team, Butler said of the partnership: “I strongly believe in the brand’s values of high performance, precision and passion for action, and I’m committed to these standards throughout each game and in my everyday life. Above all, everyone knows how much I love watches, and I’m thrilled to be part of a brand with deep history and a trailblazing spirit."
Mind the Gap
When H Moser & Cie introduced the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic a couple of years ago, the innovative model was a first for the brand on several levels. Most notably, it was the independent Swiss manufacture’s first automatic chronograph, as well as its first watch fitted with an integrated steel bracelet. Fast-forward to today, and CEO Edouard Meylan has added a sleek and sophisticated perpetual calendar to his Streamliner line-up. “When we launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, we wanted something that was new, different and had its own distinct personality and striking beauty,” Meylan tells Tatler.
Housed in a perfectly rounded, cushion-shaped case, the brand-new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is powered by the understated HMC 812 movement, which initially looks like your run-of-the-mill calibre, with three hands plus the date. “This watch represents the fusion of two icons: the Streamliner collection; and our perpetual calendar movement,” says Meylan. “We revisited our perpetual calendar calibre, adding a direct centre seconds hand and very contemporary finishing.” A subtle mix of brushed and polished surfaces add to the elegance of a signature fumé dial, which provides a backdrop for a red and white outer minute track.
During the First World War, the British and US Navy painted black-and-white chevron-like patterns onto battleships to disorient the enemy. The military nicknamed this pattern “Razzle Dazzle”, and now that same design has been used by Ulysee Nardin to decorate the dial of its new Freak X model. A DLC-coated 42mm titanium case is equipped with the UN-230, a 2018 calibre with 72 hours of power reserve. Secure yours onto the wrist with either a rubber or white calfskin strap.
For the past five years, Zenith has partnered with cigar maker Cohiba and, with 2021 marking the Cuban brand’s 55th anniversary, Zenith has launched its sixth special-edition Cohiba watch. Limited to 55 pieces worldwide, the new Chronomaster Open Cohiba 55th Anniversary Edition will be available from this month at Zenith boutiques. Inspired by Cohiba’s signature two-tone cigar box, a saffron-yellow and white-on-black dial acts as a backdrop for rhodium-plated hands and applied indexes, as well as sub-dials for the 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Wear yours with a black alligator strap.
Sporty and sophisticated, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Steel Silver Black follows the launch of the 2020 Tonda GT collection, which included a three-hand model and a chronograph. This latest addition comes with a silver and black “panda” dial that’s housed in a stainless-steel case complete with polished and satin-brushed finishing.
The storied tale of King Arthur pulling the magic Excalibur sword from a stone, thus anointing him the future king of England, has inspired Swiss watch brand Roger Dubuis since 2013 when it unveiled its first Excalibur Knight of the Round Table watch. A second model followed in 2015 and now a third joins them, complete with a three-dimensional dial created using 12 translucent blue enamel and 12 solid rose-gold segments, each representing one of King Arthur’s 12 loyal knights.
Ring of Roses
You can’t go wrong with a Rolex. The watchmaker’s classic Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 gets an update with a silver palm-motif dial and jubilee bracelet, which was specifically designed for the Datejust collection in celebration of Rolex’s 40th anniversary in 1945. Oystersteel is combined with warm 18-karat Everose gold, which is a mixture of pure gold mixed with copper and platinum, and the resulting case is beautifully feminine. Waterproof to 100 metres, this stunning timepiece is fitted with a fluted bezel.
Bulgari has unveiled the world’s slimmest automatic watch with a perpetual calendar, which is a function that allows watches to correctly display the month, date and day, with some even featuring a leap year indicator. They don’t require any fine-tuning—well, at least not for 100 years, at which point they need to be adjusted by just one day. This watchmaker isn’t shy when it comes to brainstorming ideas for ultra-thin watches. Bulgari’s manual-winding tourbillon and Octo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic both made headlines for being the thinnest of their kinds ever produced. This year, Bulgari has taken one of the most useful grand complications in watchmaking and fit it into a case that’s just 40mm in diameter and 5.80mm thick. Collectors can choose between a sandblasted titanium case and dial or a satin-brushed platinum case with a blue lacquered dial.