Tatler Exclusive: H Moser & Cie CEO Edouard Meylan On The Brand-New Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
When H Moser & Cie introduced the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic a couple of years ago, the innovative model was a first for the brand on several levels. Most notably, it was the watchmaker's first automatic chronograph, as well as its first watch fitted with an integrated steel bracelet.
Fast forward to today, and CEO Edouard Meylan has added a sleek and sophisticated perpetual calendar to his Streamliner line-up.
Housed in a perfectly rounded, cushion-shaped case complete with (yes, you guessed it) an integrated steel bracelet, the brand-new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is powered by the understated HMC 812 movement, which initially looks like your run-of-the-mill calibre with three hands plus the date.
A subtle mix of brushed and polished surfaces add to the elegance of a signature fumé dial, which provides backdrop for a red- and white-coloured outer minute track.
Here, we speak exclusively to Meylan about his company's latest release.
What was the inspiration behind the Streamliner collection?
It’s all about fluidity, curved continuous lines, and aerodynamic forms like the high-speed trains from the 1920s and ’30s. When we launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, we wanted something that was new, different and had its own distinct personality and striking beauty.
We also wanted a minimal design that highlighted the watch’s chronograph function. These elements are what guided our approach and inspiration.
You were one of the first to redefine the integrated steel bracelet with the Streamliner collection and many other watchmakers have since followed suit.
I tell my team: “It’s always better to be followed than to be a follower.” Our integrated bracelet has a unique design and is very complex in its construction. Based on organic forms, it has fluid lines and all of its links are carefully articulated. The finishing is also quite unique with an alternation of the vertically brushed finish and polish surface. It’s different and 100% Moser.
Tell us about the new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar.
This watch represents the fusion of two icons: the Streamliner collection; and our perpetual calendar movement. We revisited our perpetual calendar calibre, adding a direct centre seconds hand and a very contemporary finishing. All while keeping, of course, the exceptional features of this movement including the flash calendar function and the concept of 12 indices to indicate the months through the small central hand.
In terms of aesthetics, we have also respected and kept key elements from the Streamliner Chronograph, like the positioning of the crown at 4 o’clock and the minute track.
Who would you love to see wearing this watch?
The men and women who used to drive the Streamliner high-speed trains or my children in 20 or 30 years. That'll mean its design has crossed the ages.
What were the main challenges when designing this the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar?
It’s always difficult to rethink and revisit an icon. The whole creation process was challenging. It was also especially difficult to redefine the minute track. It can seem simple, but it’s actually extremely complex.