Cover Chanel J12 X‑Ray Pink Edition (Photos: Chanel)

Chanel enriches its J12 and Boy·Friend collections with the Pink Edition capsule, comprising four new timepieces that pay homage to house founder Gabrielle Chanel’s love of the titular colour

It is undeniable that Gabrielle Chanel’s palette of five emblematic colours—black, white, gold, red and beige—has profoundly influenced the fashion world. The traditional colour of mourning, black was redefined by the French founder of her namesake brand as a symbol of smart elegance with her iconic black sheath dress. White, with its ability to reflect light and impart radiance to the wearer’s face, was central to Mademoiselle Chanel’s style, as evidenced by her love of pearl necklaces.

Mademoiselle recognised, too, gold’s symbolic value and understood that its preciousness could be evoked without using the precious metal. This ultimately paved the way to her unique approach to luxury and opulence. Vibrant red was celebrated for its boldness and, as seen in her love of red lipstick, Mademoiselle showed women its power in making a fashion statement. Lastly, delicate and natural shades such as beige and powder pink were essentials in the founder’s palette, as they were versatile, easy to wear and ideal for the practical woman her clothes were made for.

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Above Chanel J12 X‑Ray Pink Edition

Adding a modern twist to the iconic colour palette, Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation Studio unveiled the Pink Edition collection at Watches and Wonders this April, comprising four new iterations of the J12, the J12 X‑Ray, the Boy·Friend Skeleton and the Boy·Friend Skeleton X‑Ray. As its name suggests, all the timepieces in this capsule, assembled at the Chanel Manufacture in La Chaux‑de‑Fonds, Switzerland, are rendered in variations of pink, combined with Chanel’s signature Beige Gold.

 When Chanel introduced the J12 in 2000, it made waves for its innovative employment of a then avant‑garde material: ceramic, which allowed for the production of an intensely black watch the world fell in love with. The use of ceramic, known to be highly scratch‑resistant and seven times harder than steel, yet lighter and softer to the touch, has since become emblematic in Chanel’s watchmaking repertoire.

The maison’s watch manufacture takes great pride in meticulously overseeing the entire production process of ceramic components in the house’s signature black and white hues. Since the J12’s debut, artisans in the division have perfected their craft, ensuring that each ceramic piece in Chanel watches is made with unparalleled expertise.

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Above Chanel J12 Pink Edition

Building on this legacy, the new J12 Pink Edition is a stunning blend of white ceramic and the brand’s proprietary Beige Gold. Exuding modern luxury and durability, the 33 mm limited edition features a bezel festooned with 46 baguette‑cut pink sapphires and a pristine dial set with 12 baguette‑cut pink sapphires that act as indices. It is worth mentioning at this point that Chanel is one of the few houses with a watchmaking workshop that has mastered numerous gem‑setting techniques—a unique asset that enables it to control the entire manufacturing process for its most precious watches and fully realise the artistic vision of its Watchmaking Creation Studio. 

Powered by the Calibre 12.2—a self‑winding COSC‑certified movement that is known for its reliability and precision, and offers a 50‑hour power reserve—the J12 Pink Edition has a sapphire crystal caseback that proudly displays the inscription “Limited to 55”, further emphasising its exclusivity.

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Above Chanel Boy·Friend Skeleton Pink Edition

The J12 X‑Ray Pink Edition, meanwhile, pushes the boundaries of transparency with its 38 mm case in pink sapphire crystal and Beige Gold. Its fixed bezel and dial similarly come set with baguette‑cut pink sapphires—46 on the former and 12 on the latter—with its crown bearing the same gem but flaunting a brilliant cut. Taking centre stage is the Calibre 3.1, a technical marvel created in 2020 whose intricate components are seemingly suspended within the translucent case. The bracelet on this beauty, which is limited to just 12 numbered pieces, is a work of art, comprising sapphire crystal links in a tender pink shade envisioned by Arnaud Chastaingt, director of Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation Studio.

As characteristic of Chanel’s Boy·Friend watches, the two new pink editions are all sleek lines and harmonious proportions. Limited to 55 pieces, the Boy·Friend Skeleton Pink Edition boasts a Beige Gold case measuring 37 by 28.6 mm and a bezel set with 38 baguette‑cut pink sapphires. Adding a fun twist is a pink quilt‑patterned calfskin strap with a lining on the underside in a luxurious gold hue and a Beige Gold triple‑folding buckle set with 23 baguette‑cut pink sapphires.

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Above Chanel Boy·Friend Skeleton X‑Ray Pink Edition

Rounding out the Pink Edition collection is the Boy·Friend Skeleton X‑Ray Pink Edition, also limited to 55 pieces. Rocking a decidedly more minimalist aesthetic, it features a pink sapphire crystal case and bezel free of embellishments, and comes with the same strap as the pink Boy·Friend Skeleton, sans the gems on the buckle. The only hint of bling here is spied on the Beige Gold crown, which is set with five baguette‑cut pink sapphires.

Both Boy·Friend watches are equipped with the Calibre 3, a skeleton haute horlogerie movement with a 55‑hour power reserve that is just as beautiful when viewed from the back as it is from the front.

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Images: Chanel

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